badjuju Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 I thought I'd be sneaky last night and just edit my last thread to say exactly this, but when I changed the title it didn't change it on the thread listing, so I'm posting a new thread. I just cranked for the first time using my new cherry hall effect sensor. I got no rpm reading, in fact, the rpm box was still red in megatune when i started it up. My setup for the sensor is as follows: Blue wire to ground Brown wire to 12v (from the same line that feeds power to ms when the ignition is on) black wire to tach input 1kohm 1/4watt resistor between brown and black, for a pullup. Even if it the wrong resistor or something, shouldn't it still be reading that the effect sensor is there? would a bad ground cause this? Is there something really obvious I'm missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 K new update. Running a new sensor, I installed a 2.2kohm resistor in between the 12v and pin 24. The tach in megatune still comes up red. however, i have found that when i run the sensor by one of my magnets, megasquirt resets. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 sensor only reads the south pole of the magnet-check that.and air gap of magnet.i think i used a 1.5 k but if it works on 2.2 k thats ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 I'm having trouble understanding why it would reset when it reads a magnet in front of it. My understanding of it, (correct me if i'm wrong), is when the sensor comes close to a magnet, it switches the 12v from the ground to pin 24. Since pin 24 will constantly have a 12v line with a 2.2k resistor running to it, it will have whatever amount of power running to it when there is no magnet in front of the sensor, then when a magnet goes in front of the sensor the voltage jumps to 12v, at which point ms should read that there is a trigger event. Wtf would cause it to reset when it reads a magnet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 the tach line is hot-ms fires when the tach wire voltage drops to 0.this is how points function on old points ignition.when you run a magnet in front of hall effect it with a test led on it the led should go out and be on when there is no magnet in front of hall sensor.troubleshoot the circuit with a led disconncted from the ms.start from the hall sensor and work back to the ms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 but... shouldn't there always be power to pin 24, since there's a resistor between 12v and pin 24? regardless of the switch, there would be power going to pin 24, wouldn't there? regardless, i'm off with a multimeter right now!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 Black gets no voltage when the sensor reads a magnet, it gets 12v when it's not reading a magnet. Something just occured to me, it might not be resetting, i think it's just turning the fuel pump on when it reads a trigger, makes sense, doesn't it? i mean otherwise how would it supply fuel... however, i'm still not getting a damn spark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 8, 2006 Author Share Posted June 8, 2006 I'm now having a serious problem with my ignition, if you could call it that. I have no spark. I have a brand new 4 pin hei module, and a brand new ignition coil. the only wires connected to the ignition coil are: + to B - to C spark plug wire going to the dizzy These have all been tested for continuity. The remaining HEI hookups are: W to ground (tested for continuity) G to FIDLE (tested for continuity back to pin 30 on MS) The G-FIDLE circuit has a 1000ohm resistor soldered into it, the other end of which is soldered into the +5v vref circuit for the tps. This has been tested and verified at 5v. I have an LED tester setup that I made using a 270 ohm resistor inline with an led, and if I run the cathode to a ground and the anode to my FIDLE circuit, I get lights, which I think is a good indication that everything up to that point is fine. What is bothering me is that I still don't have a friggin spark... Which I think means that the problem is with the connection between the module and the coil... Are there supposed to be more than those two wires attached to the coil? some sort of resistor on another one of the HEI module's hookups? is it just some setting i'm missing? here are my spark screenshots http://www.msefi.com/download.php?id=4704 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 i ran my fidle direct tothe yellow wire on zxt coil bracket/power transistor.no gm module needed.but there is a jumper and pull up resistor on my relay board mounted in the fidle relay socket.the ini file needs to be set for pulse width modulation of the fidle.the fuel pump should cycle for 2 seconds or so after key on and during crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 9, 2006 Author Share Posted June 9, 2006 which of the two parts of the T (verticle or horizontal) does the yellow wire go into? also, where do i set the pulse width modulation of fidle, and what do i set it to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 yellow wire goes on bottem leg of t-if assembly is mounted in oem position it will be the rear terminal.to set fidle to pwm you have to goto the configuration file-its a white screen with lines that start with the words set or unset.good luck-since i am not a computor geek i found this very frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 K i now have 5 topics on the first page of the ms forum, so i'mma go ahead and post this one in one of my current topics. sorry for spamming it guys K, I read on this post: [link]http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111634&highlight=accel[/link] that i'm supposed to turn off accel enrichment in order to tune my ve tables. makes perfect sense, as the af ratios recorded during driving would be based off the tables + the enrichment settings. My question is this; how do i turn off enrichment? from what i can see the megamanual only says "setup enrichment after tuning the ve tables" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 to turn off accell anrichment you set the TPSdot threshold (v/s) real high, usually for normal driving it is around 1 v/s, so you set it to say 30 v/s, then you would have to push the pedal like you were superman to break the threshold. Then while driving you have to push the pedal in slower to accelerate, or you may notice dead spots or stumbling, but that is pretty easy to do while tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hey all, My engine is up and running, using msns-e, pcb 2.2, hei4, cherry hall effect sensor. I have a fixed angle of 30 degrees, trying to match the crank timing with ms's timing. My timing light shows 35 btdc, with a trigger angle of 68 degrees. My problem is, no matter what trigger angle (within reason, i haven't set it more than about 68 +- 20 degrees), the timing light reads 35 degrees! Can anyone help me out? I'm using time based crank timing, cranking advance angle is 10 degrees, hold ignition is 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 14, 2006 Author Share Posted June 14, 2006 Get this, the problem was being caused by my dwell settings. I'm running a 4 pin HEI module, and I had dwell settings to fixed duty on minimum for hei. This locked the timing at 30 btdc... I changed my dwell settings and poof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted June 14, 2006 Author Share Posted June 14, 2006 One more funny thing, my whole "HEI isn't sparking" thing was being caused by my pullup resistor... Once i removed the pullup it worked fine... anyone else ever experienced this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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