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Who knows about using a hydrauliv T/O bearing


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hi everyone. I have an oem T56 out of a '97 and an LT1 out of a '94. I'm having to buy a bellhousing for the setup and thought I might be able to avoid the whole clutch fork linkage assembly by using a hydraulic throwout bearing. trouble is, that set up is in the later models with the LS1, so none of the parts numbers match. Does anyone have any knowledge of whether the setup I'm wanting to use is workable? I haven't seen this T/O bearing so I don't know what the layout is. Any information or direction would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

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Your T56 is out of a 97? Didn't 97 use an LS1 motor? I thought the LT1 ended in 96 yes?

 

IF my memory is right on this then you may have a problem as the LS1 T56 is a whole different ball 'o wax. Input shaft length and a few other things were different.

 

Otherwise, assuming I'm wrong about the LS1, I'm not sure what TO woudl work. Are TOs specific to splines or anything like that? Mikelly's experience was that the throw for the clutch on a T56 had to be right on. A balancing spacer was enuogh to really screw him up there for awhile. Honestly, for what the hydraukic TO will cost you I think you'd be just as well off using a regular T56 slave. Maybe one of th emetal replacements that's been talked aboout here if you don't want to get one out of a junkyard or pay the king's ransom GM wants new...

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Guest Anonymous

BLKMGK,

Thanks for responding. I hope you're wrong about the trans. It's my understanding the Camaro/Firebirds used the LT1 through '97. The Corvette went to the LS1 in '97. I wish I could get some pictures of what I'm trying to figure out. I haven't really done anything with SBCs since the early '70s.

 

Thanks, I'll check out the trans to make sure!

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This bothered me so I did a little bit of research for ya' smile.gif The clutch setup that I just bought is for a 93-97 Camaro/Firebird LT1. I think you're okay, I'm sorry for scaring you - I wasn't sure when the crossover was. Whew!

 

Question still remains though - do you really want to use something other than an OEM setup? I think someone else posted that the OEM part could be gotten for like $50 at wrenchead.com and the Tilton master might be needed no matter which way you went so... How much would you really save? What's the benefit?

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Guest Anonymous

BLKMGK,

I'll second that Whew! But in answer to your question, It's not the money, I just thought it might be a cleaner setup, given the limited room around bellhousing/transmission

Figured it would be simpler, if not cheaper.

I already have a 13/16" clutch master out of an '86 Corvette. What do you think?

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Guest Locutus

one of the reasons for NOT using the Camaro master cylinder is (from what someone told me may need clarification) that the firewall is angled on the Camaro, hence the mounting points on the master are angled, with out some bracket to make it work in the flat surface on the firewall in the Z its not going to be correct. Since you need the slave cylinder and the master its about the same cost as buying the whole GM unit, but you get the master cylinder that is less work to install in a Z.

 

Mikelly might be able to verify this or even enlighten us some more.

 

 

Mike

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Stock Master for an LT1T56 is indeed angled at the base. I can take some measurements if anyone would like but I don't see an easy way to use that unit.

 

As for the slave you've already got - I dunno' to be honest.

 

Heh, I dunno' a bunch of things which is why that I'm sticking to the beaten path and not haring off into the woods on some of this stuff. Truly, I'm trying to keep my swap straightforward if at all possible. I've already learned a few lessons the hard way. Tonight's was - dummy why didn't you order pressure plate bolts from Jegs?! And why doesn't the MACHINE SHOPSPEED SHOP across the road have them in stock?! Smack, I ASSumed they would and that I'd pay a little more but they don't even have them. Their ARP stock was about 4 hanging little vacuum packages of stuff and nothing else - huh?! Looks like the clutch will be another day or two going on - I resisted getting OEM stuff or reusing what I've already got. Can't find my darned torque wrench anyway... frown.gif There, I feel better!

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Guest Anonymous

Hey BLKMGK, I'm doing a T-56 / 1974 350 4 bolt setup myself right now. The slave cylinder can be had at partsamerica.com for ~$50, which is a far cry from the $120 that Chevy wanted. I've been reading Mike Biondo's Z pages and he apparently used a Tilton Hydraulic T/O bearing. So he might be able to shed a little more light on the subject.

quote:

Originally posted by BLKMGK:

This bothered me so I did a little bit of research for ya'
smile.gif
The clutch setup that I just bought is for a 93-97 Camaro/Firebird LT1. I think you're okay, I'm sorry for scaring you - I wasn't sure when the crossover was. Whew!

 

Question still remains though - do you really want to use something other than an OEM setup? I think someone else posted that the OEM part could be gotten for like $50 at wrenchead.com and the Tilton master might be needed no matter which way you went so... How much would you really save? What's the benefit?

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Guest Anonymous

Hi, I seem to have lost the thread some how. What I have is a 84-88 Corvette Clutch Master which is a 13/16" and was questioning the feasability of using a hydraulic T/O bearing. I can't seem to visualize how the hydraulic throwout bearing is secured and whether it would work with an OEM T56. It seems to me though that the setup would be cleaner and reduce clutter (fork, slave) on the outside of the bellhousing.

 

Thanks for the input,

Larry

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Doh, sorry about that. You've got a Master, yes? That's what bolts to the firewall - have you examined the firewall to see if the bolt patterns match? What's the length and throw of the rod? The Tilton unit is a bolt-in for the firewall. The only clutter you'd reduce would be the slave on the side of the trans but unless you cut you'll still have the area it mounted in. Hydraulic TOs actually replace the stock TO and have 2 lines running out of the bellhousing - one for pressure, one for bleeding.

 

Again, I'm not sure this is going to gain you much.

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