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more brake????


Guest Anonymous

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Vented or non-vented rotors Peter? A friend just did a driving course last wknd and boiled his MC with some high grade brake fluid in his 3rd session. He has toyo 4pots and vented rotors FWIW. I'm trying to pinpoint some weakness in his system as I wouldn't have thought they'd boil like that on him. If his fluid was synthetic or silicone and had excess water in it it might make more sense. For yourself it depends on your expected uses for the car. 4pots will work fine for single street stops, vented rotors more so for repeated street stops....track experience with toyo 4pots I haven't heard too much of except up above which I still think he has some unfound problem as Z31 rotors last quite well on Z31's for heatsink etc.

 

It was good meeting up with you the other wknd icon_smile.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Hey, I am doing a 72 240 with a 340 HP/360ftlb V-8 . I have gone up to the 4 piston caliper up front with S/S brake lines and DOT 4 fluid, leaving the rear stock. I have been warned that without some serious front and rear brake upgrade I could find myself having to slow down with the help of stationary objects icon_eek.gif I was thinking that with a small weight gain, wider tires and high grade shoes and pads I should be using only the road to stop. What do you think?? icon_confused.gif

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How do you use the car? If you're not roadracing or driver's schooling, you don't have anything to worry about. If you are, your hp level has more to do with what you need for brakes than anything else. With 340hp, you should consider something more than the stock drums. Just be sure you keep the F/R balance in mind when you modify. Too much rear and you'll be spinning. You want the fronts to lock just before the rears.

 

I put '82-'83 ZX rear discs on my Z, but I only have ~180 or so rear wheel hp.

 

Ross, Mike, and others have PLENTY of ideas for ya.

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