Rb Z-31

[Racinjitter]

Ok, So I finally cut the tubes up. I measured out 30mm from the base of the tube. Marked the cut line with a silver sharpie. (easier to see). You do not have to leave 30mm, how much is left of the original strut tube will determine the maximum low height that you can go. I will be milling the tube down to closer to 5mm of OE tube sticking out of the knuckle.

 

 

Next I placed the tubes in a vice and started cutting them. Once you get almost all the way through the tube you should put something over the spindle thread area and bearing race area. I also placed a cardboard box with some crumpled up paper bags and pipe insulation under the spindle, so that when it falls it does not marr up the threads for the bearing retainer nut.

 

 

After you cut the tubes you will want to clean up the burrs left on the inside diameter and outside diameter.

 

 

You will end up with something like this when you are done cutting the tubes.

 

 

The next step will be to grind the casting nub off of the base of the strut tube. Just so that it is level with the rest of the base of the tube.

 

 

I did a small test fit of the S9 adapters and they will need to be pressed on, or hammered in with a block of wood or a dead blow mallet.

 

[Racinjitter]

So there is a defined step in diameter about 6mm from the base of the knuckle where the strut tube is inserted. With the saw blade that I was using, if I cut right at the step, that would give me .5mm less leaving me with 5.5mm on the knuckle. So that is what I did.

Then I ground down the knucle so that the S9 adapter sits level on the knuckle. You can see a small gap between the adapter and the knuckle. This is not good.

Here they are gound down, and level with the knuckle.

Next I tacked them up, and welded them all together. It is a PITA to weld in between the tube and the upright for the backing plate/caliper bracket stays. But I found an extended collett for the welder and did it up, breaking the collett in the process.

I still have to drill for the remote damper ajdusters, and at that time I will be gussetting the tube to the knuckle. I want to make sure that it stays in one piece. (It will hold up no problems, but I am thinking overkill).

[Racinjitter]

I did finish up the welding on them today. I used 1/4" plate steel and welded in 15mm x 40mm rectangle onto the front and back of the spindle. I also made a wedge to fit in between the caliper upright and the S9 adapter. Rough measurement of the wedge before I ground it down on one side is 20mm x 15mm.

 

[Racinjitter]

So here are the coil overs that I bought a while ago. They are Stance GR+ 3 Way's. Right now the spring that are on the coil overs are rated at 9k front and 7k rear. I have a set of 12k for the fronts and 10k for the rears on the way. I am making rear upper mounts and lower sleeves so that nothing on the body needs to be modified and ghetto washers are not utilized. Max low and high should be measured by the end of the weekend.

 

[Racinjitter]

Here is the s13 upper pillow ball that I started with.

 

 

Here is the upper plate that I made to adapt the z31 stock upper mounting points to the spherical bearing (pillow ball). Took me about 1/2 hour to make. I was very pressed for time tonight between actual work and "my work"

 

 

Here is one completed upper mount with the stance rear upper pillow ball mounted to the plates that I made.

 

[My88Z31]

Hey man! Sick Z! I read everything and i'm greatly appreciated of all the posted info about this swap! I have an 88' Z31 auto non-turbo with 257k miles and can't stay out from driving it. Love these cars and I can't get rid of it. So anyways, i'm saving for an RB20DET swap and from a 1-10, I want to know how hard it was for you? Can you tell me how much total you had to spend on the swap with tuning etc? My Z has the same exact paint job with the silver chrome trim. Is yours an 88' also? Tell me every small thing you can. Do tell! Thanks!

[My88Z31]

Here's my Z..