JustinOlson Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 The cage above weighs 96 lbs when I modeled it in solidworks. The idea is to carry most all of the loads up the backbone (trans tunnel). I will be doing a R230 rear differential with this chassis project. At this point I'm kind of braking this project into two. Once will be going forward with building up a tube chassis as pictured in my previous post. A S30 body will drop over the top of this tube chassis. The back of the engine will be mounted so that it will just fit under the dash. Imagine if you drew a line from the bottom right corner of the windshield to the bottom left corner of the windshield. This is where I will be mounting my midplate. The tube chassis car will be designed around a very extreme road race setup. I will be running double wishbone suspension front and rear. I will source a 240z-280z shell that I can completely gut. I will mount the YZ body work on this. I want to focus on building the chassis with dimensions off of my 280z, and then buy the body when I'm ready. My 280z will stay a L28 powered street car for now. I will be installing the coilovers, brakes, and just getting it running at this point. It will have ZG flares, msa headlight covers, msa type 3. Just a all around good looking Z. I may do an LS1 swap later down the road, or the 2JZ engine I have a bunch of parts for. For now the key will be getting the car back on the road. No cage, nothing crazy. Just getting a floor back in it, getting the seats mounted, ect ect ect. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Been playing more in cad. I wish building the cage was this easy :) Weighs 185 lbs as seen here. We'll see where this actually goes. I need to start modeling the transmission and engine and model them roughly so that I can nail down more dimensions. The red tubes are 1.625 X 0.083 4130, and the green tubes are 1.25 X 0.065 4130. I ordered a set of C5 Corvette uprights today. They will be a good starting point for my front suspension. I will be doing 4130 tube wishbones that are longer then stock corvette parts. The 2JZ will be a structural part of my chassis. up front. I will triangulate the front as much as possible while still retaining the ability to pull the motor and transmission. I received the last part of the rear drive train yesterday. Now I have a complete R230 rear with axles and hubs. I'm hoping I can come up with a good steel upright for the rear so that I can use this R230 with stock axles. if not, I will run the C5 rear uprights with custom axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 I haven't update this in a long while. I've basically haven't done anything with the project in the last 5 months. Its been sitting, and I've been focusing my energy elsewhere. I'm trying to get a good direction with this project. I've currently stock piled a lot of random parts for this project. I need to choose a direction and see it through. Engines owned: Subaru EG33 Flat 6 3.3L Lexus SC300 2JZGE Audi 2.5L 20v 5 cylinder Nissan L28 (currently in car) Transmissions: GM TH400 with super bellhousing & adapter kit for 2JZ Gforce T101A dogbox transmission Nissan 4spd (currently in car) Lexus 5 spd auto Rear Ends: R200 (open) R230 (3.67, vLSD) Suspension 280z sectioned struts, hypercoil springs, Bilstein 36mm inserts 4X C5 Corvette Uprights Wheels: 4X Rota RBR 17X9.5 w/ RE-01R Body: Full 280YZ fender kit ZG flare kit It basically looks like I have enough parts here to build 2 or 3 cars. In the short term I need to determine which direction I want to go with my current project and stick with it. Currently I'm leaning towards doing the EG33 with the dogbox. Suspension will probably be 280z strutted suspensions. Not decided on the body at this point because I need to determine how low I want the car to be. If I go really low, I'm going to need to use the YZ fenders. Otherwise, I will use the ZG's. Regards, Justin BTW, Here are some pictures of the Gforce box I just purchased. I have a reverse mount starter Tilton setup with triple plate clutch already to go along with this. It has a 1.25" 29 spline input shaft, with 32 spline th400 sized output shaft. Standard Nascar COT driveline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Here is my Clutch, Bell housing and Starter.. I need to source a release bearing for the clutch, and a pilot bearing for the crank adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Been looking at adapter plates for both the EG33 and 2JZ to use the Dog box. Here is my 2JZ analysis: Comparing my Chevy R07 Flywheel (8 bolt pattern) to the standard 2JZ crank pattern, it would apprear they are very close in dimensions. I will likely do a little bit of machining on the flywheel and use a simple spacer between the crank and flywheel. Here is a picture of my Boostwerks TH400 crank adapter overlaying my Tilton flywheel. Separate: Flywheel Over Adapter: Adapter Over Flywheel: Tilton R07 Flywheel model with 2JZ bolt pattern sketched over the top: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 The idea is to ovalize the mounting holes on the flywheel and use a 0.025" wall thickness bushing around the 10mm 2JZ crank bolts. This will allow everything to bolt together with a simple spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Went to Tube Service today for some 2" square tubing. I'm redoing the rocker panels and welding in a temporary floor to get me rolling again. My welding will finally be returned to me after a 9 month lone to a family member. Never let family borrow your expensive tools. I was supposed to have this back in JUNE!!!!!! I got the car back into the shop tonight, so it can dry out and await me working on it. Gotta love Thanksgiving week shutdown at work. Getting paid to work on my car is great! Having time to do it is priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 How to ruin a datsun with a die grinder: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Here is an updated picture of the engine bay. Its pretty cleaned up. I need to remove some misc brackets completely, but so far so good. Here is my idea for the intercooler location: Yesterday I bought a little $12 propane torch to melt the remaining lead out of the A pillars so I can completely shave the drip rails. I had a weird taste in my mouth the whole rest of the evening after this: I'll be back working on the car this afternoon after I get my work projects finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Attached are the latest pictures of the motor mock up that I did yesterday. I am trying to get the motor position sorted out so that I can tackle of the chassis modifications that are going to be required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 I was trying to get an idea of where I would put the large turbo in my compound arrangement. I think this will be the basic layout. I need to verify that this will all fit with the thermostat housing assembled. The Top turbo is a Borg Warner s300sx3 66mm/91mm compressor & 79mm/73mm turbine with custom 1.10 a/r housing from full-race. On its own is good for ~775whp. The lower turbo is a Borg Warner S400sx4 80mm/110mm compressor & 96mm/88mm turbine w/ 1.32 a/r housing. This turbo is good for about 1175whp currently. I'm looking at 3 or 4 different compressor wheel upgrades. I will likely go with a compressor with the dimensions 88mm/118mm. The goal is to get it to support ~1250-1300whp at a pressure ratio of 2:1. The whole reason for doing a twin turbo compound configuration is for more area under the curve. The small turbo will spool to ~30psi initially. This added exhaust energy will allow the larger turbo to spool up sooner. It will also only be spooling to 15psi, instead of 45psi. This all equates to a system that will come up on full boost 1500-2000rpm faster then the big turbo would by itself. This will then allow me to not have to rev the engine beyond 7500 rpm, increasing durability. The added benefit is the turbos are each only running at pressure ratios of 2:1. They will barely be breaking a sweat when I'm running 45psi and making 1200+whp The engine is being solid mounted to the tube frame. I do have lots sheet metal to cut away to make room for all of the new piping. The down pipe from the small turbo will feed into the turbine housing of the large turbo. The compressor outlet of the large turbo will feed into the compressor inlet of the small turbo. The compressor outlet of the small turbo will go to the intercooler. Link for more information on the two turbos I'm building this kit around: http://www.full-race.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=214_1167 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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