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HybridZ

Ground Control Coilovers and Advanced Design Shocks


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Guest Anonymous

My education only goes to 280 Z amd a 300Zx is just a foreign car. The first generation Z's had McPhearson strut suspensions not shock absorbers. I really do not know what the 300ZX's have but SCCA or Ross C can set you up with about anything to take that "project 300Zx" to task on your 240. I even have Ground Control adjusting nuts on my project with Bilstein 5 inch sleeves and all under 200 # 10 inch Carerra coilovers dampened by "limited" KYB GR2 strut cartridges making a real hybrid "mutt suspension".

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Guest Mr. Big Business

I assume you mean strut inserts when you say shocks. Not sure about the shocks, but I am in the process of putting on a set of ground control coilovers with tokico adjustable strut inserts onto my '71. I went with 10 inch springs, 200 lb/in in the rear, 175 for the front. So far, I have no complaints about the kit, other than the lack of instructions, other than how to section your strut tubes. I can't tell you how they perform, since it's taking me forever to get it done (having 2 kids doesn't help! :D )

 

Henry

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Guest Anonymous

First thing to consider is what spring rates are you interested in running. The majority of Koni,KYB, Tokico etc. are only good to about 300 - 350 lb springs. If you want to go higher for a true racing suspension the Advance Design are the way to go. What type of driving will you be doing. Street, commute, autocross, road race. If you are racing, what kind of surfaces are you running on. Asphault, concrete. Is it smooth or bumpy.

 

Lets start with this info.

 

John

1972 240Z Chevy V8 In the process of finishing

1981 RX7 CSP Autocross

1984 Chevy Corvette BP Autocross

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Actually you could get a Koni or Bilstein valved for about whatever wheel rate you want, still cheaper than the Advanced Design, but with no adjustability, which IMHO is worth a few extra sets of shocks unless you already know exactly what you want. Tokico and the other off-the-shelf players really don't have anything good for more than about 250 lb/in springs. As previously stated your options really depend on your application. Once known, then we can help.

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Guest Anonymous

Coil overs and stiffer springs are cool. But get some adjustable dampener shocks to go with them. Tokico Illumina's are a good choice for the money. Also, I think you won't have to cut the tops of the Tokico's with the Ground control kit. If SCCA can get you a better price on the GC camber plates, go with it. IMO.

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i have gc camber plates on front and they work but ALL camber plates rattle.i had some cheap carrera camber plates in rear and took them off and sold them.if your car will never be used on a road race course it best to get control arms that adjust from underneath and use 240 upper spring cushions.if you use the car for work the oem rubber bushings are best in rear.the urathene bushings hammered out the unit body under my car.i use my car for work and track use .if local roads are rough try to use 12" coil overs-more travel.if you get car too stiff it wont hook up on a race track but will feel flat on the street.i have had the feeling of fighting an understeering car and somebody behind you in a car that looks like a piece of s@#$ and is out hnadling you at the track.i have lots of parts laying around that sounded like a good idea but didnt work at the track-like 11/8 front sway bar.its now on back of my van.there is nothiong wrong with some body lean-that is weight transfer.follow a late model porsche through the mountains and watch the wheel travel-wheel follows the road with moving the car.

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Has anyone used this combo?
Yes, I haven't come across many Z's running them but moreso Skylines, BMW's, and some Zerious Honda's. Their's lots of great info noted above, and yes you don't typically get lots of instruction/info from GC. Their intent is a racing supplier to folks more in the know I guess and hence aren't always so open to longer phone chats with individual customers. The tokico's DON'T last so long with spring rates much above 250, I proved that in the last two years blowing out my front Illumina's fully with 375 lb/in which I just replaced last weekend (with same struts, but now 'soft' 225 lb/in up front) but also got my custom MML caster/camber plates in with a custom MML torrington bearing and seal setup to replace upper strut OEM bearing 'rotation function' and within upper caster/camber plates is a HD teflon spherical bearing that should last longer than some other lower priced units I've seen in action rattling (no rattles from my setup, slight vibe on low speed sharp bumps at present, but no rattles) along with my custom MML 280ZXadjustable TC rods (Mike Kelly didn't have any quite yet and local friends done them before). Running 8 degrees of caster now and loving it with minimal camber for great tire wear:D But I'm babbling now :rolleyes:

 

A while back while working with a customer I polled around amongst some racers for Advance strut feedback and consensus was they had some initial development issues that they worked through very well with their customers (whether directly or via vendors as I am) and they're putting out a quality product with that strut. One customer of mine I've setup with the Advance struts and coilovers. Advance was chosen on their history/price vs Penske's (or KYB's which haven't seen any redesigns in some time) the Advance struts were basically THE option for his rather hipo roadracing ride with nothing stock but perhaps his roof (lots more was considered!). Customer recently finished installing Dando's stiffener kit (highly reccomended, 6 pieces at $40US each and lots of elbow grease)and is progressing on his other systems. As noted by others your total suspension, rims/tires/tire type (ie. street/R/full slick), chassis additions, cage style/quality, total weight and distribution, hp/brakes etc all are part of the big package requiring consideration as part of your total setup including struts whether $40 stockers up to the Advance struts or Penskes etc.

 

PS I haven't had time to write up on my new suspension mods but I love my new alignment:) Likely too much caster but driving quick and doing nasty lane changes on very GROOVY pavement thru curves is now easily done as car is not darty whatsoever. I spent 30 minutes in the alignment shop and we had my desired settings dialed in. Lots of fun exploring limits and then fine tuning to the sweet spots ;)

 

PS the Advance struts require the larger diameter 280Z strut tubes which isn't a bad thing if you're racing that hard as they're a stouter piece anyhow.

 

Good Luck and any q's feel free.

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