T-56 slave cylinder

[Guest chevsun]

I am looking at the slave cylinders for both the t-5 and t-56 and the only difference that I see is that the t-5 has the bleeder and the line attaches at a 90 degree angle to the cyl instead of straight out the back (t-56). Will the t-5 slave work on the t-56? or will I blaze this trail. Are all those threads on the slave cyl mount for clutch adjustment and use nuts on both sides of the slave mount flange to move the cyl in or out? I also have an electrical question. Using a multimeter I have 12v going into the backup

light pigtail and with the trans in reverse I have 12v exiting until I plug in the backup lights then I have 0v the lights work fine if I just make a straight loop. Its got me scratching various body parts. If I have 12v exiting it should not dissapear as I have 1/4 ohm resistance through the light loop. Does the reverse switch work as a proximity switch or is it a mechanical? I could just have poor contact internally.

[Guest Anonymous]

I don't know about using the T-5 slave, although I recall someone mentioned it being done, I'd search the archives on here to come up with it.

The threads (long studs with threads on the end) on the T56 slave cylinder mount are to hold a aluminum spacer (or cover actually) that goes between the slave and the bellhousing. This cover, covers up the clutch fork and the hole in the bellhousing around the clutch fork. As far as I know the only adjustment to make would be at the rod clevis on the clutch master cylinder/clutch pedal. I hope I correctly interpreted what you meant on that.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Guest chevsun]

Thanks Lone I see why someone might not want to use the t-5 slave now as it puts the fittings right into the tunnel wall (read more hammering). As I have the new t-56 slave here I am going to use it. I was also considering staying with a 3/4 master but I have the 7/8 here so I guess I will use that also. Now my problem is where to find that missing cover/spacer you mentioned. That makes a lot more sense to me. thanks. Steve

[Guest Jason]

.25 Ohm means 48 Amps until the bulb filaments heat up, so I think you are drawing too much current through the reverse light switch in the tranny.

 

Try putting a relay in. Use the reverse switch to turn on the relay, then have the relay turn on your reverse lights.

[Guest Anonymous]

No problem. Actually the fitting will miss everything without hammering on that side. Due to the tilt of the motor mounts, its tighter on the passenger side than on the driver's side. You might want to make the slave cylinder fitting a 90, I didn't and mine makes a sharp bend (not to sharp, but a 90 would have been better). Also you'll need a pretty long -3 (or whatever you happen to be using, thats what I used) hose, I think I went 40" and 42" might have been better.

I used a 3/4" Howe racing master just because thats what I bought as I originally was going to go T-5. The clutch is definately firm, but engages in the middle of the throw. 7/8's might be better, I don't know without trying one.

Oh well, those are some of the things I ran into, good luck with it.

 

Lone

[Guest Locutus]

That little bracket piece can only be had from your local happy chevy dealer(he is happy cause your fixing to get it with out vasoline). Anyway as I recall that particular piece wasn't but 20 or 30 dollars. If I were you I would go up to the dealer and ask them to show you some of the drawings they have on a 94 - 97 camaro with a 6 speed(specifically the tranny) and make sure you have all the parts. There are some special parts that are needed if you are missing things like the clutch fork or the pivot ball, etc. Its piece of mind to make sure you have everything before you drive yourself crazy trying to solve the problem.

 

Mike