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Resistors vs. PWM for injectors?


Zmanco

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I ordered some resistors from Mouser tonight - hopefully they'll be here by the weekend so I can put them in and experiment. I've got a board under the passenger seat with the rest of the MS on it, so shouldn't be too hard to add them.

 

What resistance/power rating did you order?

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I have the injectors wired into 2 groups of 3, so I'll put 2 ohms into each group. I ordered 3 x 6.2 ohms to wire in parallel for each which will result in 2 ohms. I went with 25W ceramics which are overkill, but better to err on that side than the reverse.

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Is this how you plan on wiring each bank?

 

Bank1

 

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER1

 

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER1

 

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER1

 

 

Bank2

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER2

 

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER2

 

+12V ---- INJECTOR -----RESISTOR--------------- DRIVER2

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I can't get the editor to stop removing spaces, so please see the attached file wiring.txt.

 

Electrically it's the same as the one you drew, it's just easier to wire up as I have the injectors wired in two parallel banks of 3. Those two wires route under the passenger seat where all the rest of the MS installation resides.

wiring.txt

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Stock injectors are around 2.4 Ohm

 

So 3 in parallel = 0.8 Ohms.

 

Your three 6 ohm resistors in parallel = 2 ohms

 

0.8 + 2.0 = 2.8 Ohms

 

If you wire them like this attachment, you will have around 8.4 Ohms for each injector/resistor combination, which should be good.

wiring.txt

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Thanks Pete, this isn't rocket science, but I always feel better when someone else comes to the same conclusion :)

 

I have an old scope I picked up the other day, and when the probes (voltage only) arrive, I'll measure across the resistor to determine the opening time. In the mean time, any suggestions for where to start with the setting in MS?

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I only just thought about this today, I have my injectors wired in 2 banks of 3. In parallel, so they must be around .8ohms and it runs fine! how can this be? I would have thought it would have burnt out the drivers.

The PWM settings are used to limit the average current once the injector is fully open. If PWM Current Limit % is set to 20, then that means the driver is effectively off 80% of the time and only on for 20%. This results in the average current being limited which protects the drivers from over heating.

 

If you are saying that you aren't using the PWM settings, then perhaps you have high impedance injectors? Their resistance is higher and hence the PWM function isn't needed (can be left at 100%) without using resistors.

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The PWM settings are used to limit the average current once the injector is fully open. If PWM Current Limit % is set to 20, then that means the driver is effectively off 80% of the time and only on for 20%. This results in the average current being limited which protects the drivers from over heating.

 

This is not entirely true.

 

The PWM current limit % is actually the inverse of the current limit. It really should be called "PWM Current", with the limit being removed. At 100%, the current is not limited, and this is the correct setting for low Z injectors with series resistors installed. At 30%, the current is being limited 70% by the PWM circuit (or 30% of the current is being allowed, depending on how you like to look at it). None of the PWM settings have anything to do with injector duty cycle. This is entirely controlled by the required fuel variable, your VE table, and engine load/RPM.

 

datman, your settings are fine. The PWM circuit only allows 30% of the current to flow through your injectors. The PWM circuit protects both the drivers and the injectors.

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Today I installed the fuel injector resistors. I changed the PWM current limit to 100% and increased the injector opening time from 1.2 to 1.5 ms. I'm continuing to tweak the VE table as I drive and see areas that are way too rich or lean, but all in all it drives just like before. Of course, without a track I can't test for overheating of the drivers/injectors. Have to wait for next spring I suppose :(

 

Having tried both approaches now I'd suggest that as long as you have some place to mount the resistors, it's no big deal to do it, and I don't think there is any appreciable performance hit (other than it appears to take a few more tenths of a millisecond for the injectors to open - something that makes no difference on my mostly street driven car.)

P1000575 (Large)_thumb.JPG

P1000577 (Large)_thumb.JPG

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