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Basic Brake Questions


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Yeah, actually I ziptied a piece of a plastic bag around the top to make a temporary lid. But probably not the best solution....

 

Thanks for your advice. I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it goes.

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Guest Anonymous

Well I'm about to drive the Z for the first time since early summer. Unfortunately, it's winter in Alaska. The roads are actually very clear, but it wouldn't hurt to have brakes that worked halfway decent. The rear brakes do nothing at all (nice for burnouts), but I know they are not nearly as important as the fronts. The problem is the fronts are also very weak. Also, I replaced one caliper when I first got the car. It helped a little, but its still pretty bad.

 

The biggest thing I've noticed is the people who owned it before me never put lids on the fluid reservoir. They're both pretty nasty, but the rear is pure black gunk. Anyway, I just want to know the cheapest way to help these brakes out. I am selling it as soon as possible, so I don't want to spend much money at all. Would a flush help? How is that done? Can I take the MC off and clean it or does it have to be replaced? I don't have access to any JYs. So I need solutions that involve NAPA/Schucks.

 

Thanks for your help.

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Originally posted by Nick_570Z:

The biggest thing I've noticed is the people who owned it before me never put lids on the fluid reservoir. They're both pretty nasty, but the rear is pure black gunk. Anyway, I just want to know the cheapest way to help these brakes out. I am selling it as soon as possible, so I don't want to spend much money at all. Would a flush help? How is that done?

NO LIDS?! Well, I'd recommend getting some lids from the "help" section of the local auto parts store. And a few bottles of brake fluid. And a cheapo (~$6.00) one-man brake bleeding kit (small bottle with magnet on lid to hold it near the bleed screw, and tubes). Ever bled the brakes before? Jack up the rear of the car and remove the rear wheels. The bleed screws are on the little cylinders behind and at the bottom of the brake drums. Hopefully they'll loosen. Anyway, one at a time, loosen the bleed screw and attach the tube from the brake bleeding kit. Pump pump pump until the bottle is full, repeat until the MC reservoir is nearly empty. Then top off with fresh fluid. Repeat until fresh fluid is coming out of the wheel cylinder. Tighten bleed screw, and go on to the other side of the car and repeat. Now would be a good time to check the condition of the brake shoes, so remove the drums and have a look. Then repeat the whole process at the front of the car. Bleed screws are at the top/backside of the calipers. Check the pads, too.

 

Brake fluid is very hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture), so it's no wonder your brakes suck. Also, you've probably got corrosion in the lines, so repeating the process after a few hundred miles of driving is a good idea.

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