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280zx rear disc bracket pics


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

guys,

question #1, trav, i havent yet hook up the ebrake, but i am probably going to fab a bracket to hook it up.

 

question #2, dan, i would agree with your thoughts on doing some analysis.what i thought of was what is the strength of a cast part? imo the steel plate is as stong or stronger then cast maxima part. also the part is welded on both sides.if you would like ill send you a pic of it just let me know.

 

thanks for all the interest.

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FWIW,

I am not saying this to sway anyone from these, but the bracket that is being offered here is alot like what I have in many ways. Please read on!(copy/paste: http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Bracket.JPG )The e-brake isn't much of a problem. You don't need to add or subtract anything. What I did was actually switch the sides the cable goes to. This makes them shorter. I then reused the spring clip to hold them away from the half shafts, hooking them to the control arm. Hooking the cable up was more or less a no brainer. Worked like a charm. Heres where the problem is. The only thing that I have found that is a problem with this setup is the fact that at the 45* angle the bracket on the ZX caliper for the e-brake lever hits the bottom of the car right at the seam where there are spot welds. If I remember correctly this is actually right where the flex line bracket is mounted to the car. In the first pic you can see where the bracket was. In this pic you can see straight above the caliper where the bracket use to be. Thats where it gets hit by the e-brake lever. (copy/paste: http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Reardisc.jpg ) This may have been caused from my suspension being totally shot. I think I remember needing to move the brake line bracket for this reason. I will know for sure in acouple weeks when I get it all back together after coil overs. Maybe sooner. Hope this helps.

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John,

Off the cuff, I'd guess that the Nissan cast steel part and your welded plate part would have similar strength properties. A quick look in Bruhn's "Analysis and Design of Flight Vehicle Structures" gives 32ksi ultimate shear strength, and 51 ksi ultimate tensile strength for generic carbon and alloy steels. Please note that this is just a quick look-up on my part, I am much more familiar with aluminum structures. What material and heat treat is the plate, and what's the weld material?

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I also hope I didn't upset anyone. I never intended my statements to be taken the wrong way. I just wanted to point out what problems I had encountered with my design which was "similiar" to Cheezer240's. Although what I pointed out in my design may or may not have been a problem in his design, I am still trying to figure a solution on my problem, if there is one. Did that make since? weird.gif

Something I would like to point out though. After looking at Cheezer's pic again, it appears to have more "meat" then mine does in the crucial areas, especially considering mine were fill welded together. Which have held up nicely after several "tests" ;)

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Guest Anonymous

John, I apreciated your posts and pictures and diagrams. If your weld penetrated as far as it appears, I doubt there will be any breaking or cracking.The weld itself looks about as strong if the bracket was made from one piece. Without innovation or the courage to come up with something different, we would all be walking around pulling square wheeled carts.

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Guest Anonymous

ok guys,

i would like everyone to know that i only designed these brackets to use on my own car, it wasnt ever the intention to sell them.i used to fabricate a set of brackets for the 510 that where only made out of 1/4" plate, and have had many cars use them, with no failures. that was my basis for the material increase on the Z.i simply posted pics to see what people thought, not cause some huge problem for some of you.everybody has there own idea's and we can all express them.so if you like it great ill give you any info you want if not, hey im sure that you will come up with your own idea, more power to you.i was just looking for a low cost bracket that i could make myself.if i have upset anyone please forgive me.

 

have a great day.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Those brackets look very nice. Beautiful welds there.

 

Curious about what kind of plasma torch you used. I used a friend's big honkin Lincoln and it had a REALLY hard time. Granted, my brackets were cut from a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel. I ended up having to do alot of manual cleanup. I think the 1/2 inch plate was waaay overkill.

 

I welded mine on both sides - which also required lots of cleanup since the underside welds had to be ground way down in order to clear the hub.

 

I also did my hubside as a complete ring - again, overkill. I regret this. Wish I would've done a C instead.

 

Mine are at 90 degrees - caliper completely forward. I had no problems hooking up the EBrake cable. The only problem is that the amount of "pull" from the existing cable (meant for drums) is not quite sufficient to actuate the lever for the caliper. I had to remove the cable end springs and cut them in half.

 

I gotta say, $75 for those sounds like a very good deal. Just make sure that if you do sell any of them that you make the buyers completely understand that there ain't no warranty or liability or nuthin. Maybe even state that these are merely hunks of metal that you might be able to use as caliper brackets, but you do so completely at your own risk.

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Guest Anonymous

jeromio,

the plasma is actually a cnc plasma cutter. its completely computerized, i just download the shape and the plasma uploads the g-code and wala, the part is cut with about a 1° draft.i figured for those of us that arent really that rich i would offer this bracket, in fact i just shipped my first set to lockjaw.

 

cya

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  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by ON3GO:

are you still selling them?

this is for the 240sx rear disk brakes right?

mike

Those brackets Cheezer posted (nicely done BTW)are for a 280ZX setup/ala a rotated maxima bracket (early calipers I think?) with 10" discs, not the larger 240SX setup. They're noticeably different in geometry and function. Be sure to rebuild the 280ZX calipers, I've had both piston seals go and ebrake internal cams brake on the early 280ZX calipers I've had as OEM on my 280ZX (more a note to other 'silent' readers as cheezer sounds quite experienced). Lube the slide points of the large yoke bracket as well to ensure even pressure and pad wear.
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Guest Anonymous

mike,

 

Originally posted by ON3GO:

are you still selling them?

this is for the 240sx rear disk brakes right?

 

ross is correct these use the 82-3 280zx rear caliper and rotor.and yes i have enough material cut out to make 2 more sets.ross thanks for the compliment i appreciate any tech that will make any of our installs easier.

 

thanks again guys.

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