Spray?

[cockerstar]

Hey guys,

 

I picked up a '79 280ZX that is mechanically sound for $235 locally

 

This car is going to be the budget build for a race that my buddy and I will be having when the weather gets nice, so I was looking into getting a nitrous kit for my cheap power.

I havent seen anyone running anything here on the forums on an L28.

Its the early non turbo so it has the dished pistons and 8.3:1 compression ratio.

 

What is safe to run with the stock internals?

Should I be safe with a small 75 shot?

It should bring me to right around 200 at the wheels.

[cockerstar]

I did some research and Holly's site suggests that you dont go more than 50% of the stock HP rating if you are boosting a stock engine.

I'm rated for 140 at the crank so I dont think that a 75 shout would be out of the question

 

75 horse power on demand for less than $350?

I like it!

[JSM]

Be the Guinea pig and let us know the results. $350 is a cheap 75 HP gain if it holds up, especially if you only have $235 in the whole car!

[510six]

My first external power adder on an L series was a 80 whp N20 shot on an all junkyard parts 3 liter, the car ran mid 12`s with a not so efficient Volvo(Bosch) CIS injection. The setup was a wet port due to my concerns that a single fogger would not distribute the fuel evenly to all cylinders with an L series EFI manifold. I ran the same setup when a CT26 turbo was used on a "built" motor with SDS and ran consistant low 11`s and even touched the 10`s. Today a 100hp dry shot controlled by an AEM EMS is used to spool a T67 turbo at the track. L motors are pretty tough in stock form provided proper safety provisions are taken using nitrous.

[cockerstar]

What would 'the proper safety provisions' include?

 

Do you think the N2O would distribute evenly enough if I put the fogger farther back as opposed to right before the manifold?

 

Maybe do a dual fogger system?

 

Will the stock rail suffice with a wet system?

[510six]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D850604&N=700+4294925143+400304+4294925127+115&autoview=sku

 

Nitrous like boost tends to want to "blow" out the spark due to higer cylinder pressures so a CDI ignition is a good idea, a CDI ignition with a rev limiter and a window switch built in is even a better idea. The rev limiter is due to the fact that in lower gears the motor will rev more than fast enough to float the valves on a L series( ask me how I know). The window switch is a good idea because it allows the nitrous to be activated at only though a specified rpm range . Timing should be retarded 2* for every 50 hp , this can be done by rearding timing at the distributor or though a external timing retard.I would wire a full throttle switch and a clutch switch(the second rev limit can be wired to this as well, now you have a staging rev limiter). The stock fuel rail and return should be fine although I would upgrade to a turbo or a larger fuel pump. The stock EFI manifold tends to starve cylinder #1 and #2 when using a single fogger with a wet system. I follwed the advise of several friends who had correctly setup nitrous , the results were that the system worked so well that the motor had 80 10lb. bottles of nitrous run though it in a year with no ill results ( until I got really greedy). The same nitrous system was used in conjunction with a turbo motor with a very small T4 turbo and lasted for a couple of hundred hard drag runs before a defective electrical conector failed and the motor went lean.

 

A pic of a port N20 setup on an L series

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=FFFFFF&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2071000-2071999/2071134_14_full.jpg

 

This is a basic overview of what a safe nitrous system should include.

 

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html

[cockerstar]

Thanx a lot man!