tmcnam Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Hi all, I've installed a park neutral switch off of a late model Chevy onto my 700R4 per JTR manual. The part has 2 receptors for plugs- top having 7 prongs and bottom having 4. I thought it would be easy using my ohm meter to find the terminals I needed for the reverse lights and the park-neutral switch but I can only come up with the reverse switch. No other two terminals give me a closed circuit on the park and neutral positions only. I have searched this extensively and even tried to revive an old thread in the electrical forum but no luck. Does anyone know the wiring/pinouts for this type of switch? This is the last thing I need to do before I install my engine permanently and would like to get it done over the holidays. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tim '76 280Z w/'99 Chevy Truck Vortec engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 I wired mine finding the correct wire at the ignition switch. There is only one wire that is hot when the key is rotated all the way clockwise like you are starting the car. The switch I used was fairly heavy duty, rated to handle 10 amps, but the starter is on a relay so it shouldn't be running more than a couple of amps to be activated. A really heavy duty switch is not necessary. Anyway to make a long story short. The switch is directly in series with the wire in the ignition switch. Depressing the switch in either park or neutral will complete the circuit. Just make sure you have the mechanical arm that activates the switch in the correct gear position. Of course the depth of the switch also has to be adjusted. I wish I could tell you the exact wire, but I'm out of town right now. To find the wire, open up the plastic housing around the key switch and test with meter looking for voltage while turning the key. You can unhook the starter if you don't want the car turning over. It's really difficult to find the wire measuring resistance since a car has so many natural shorts (starter, alternator any other motor across the battery.) So measuring for the 12 volts going on while turning the key is much easier. Good luck and success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 oops, sorry I didn't see the picture earlier. My advice was for a aftermarket switch not the OEM style switch, but the same starter wire will still need to be used. I cut into the wire around the ignition switch just because it was convenient. I also assumed there was a starter relay, but I'm not positive about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmcnam Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 GetZ, Thanks for the info but I need the pinouts for the Park-Neutral switch on the transmission. I'm going to just take the wire that goes to the starter solenoid and run it throught this switch so that the starter is interupted unless it is in Park or neutral (this was how it was wired on the original Datsun automatic transmission). I've checked every possible combination of terminals but cannot find the two pins that complete a circuit while in park and neutral. JTR shows the switch and gives the part number but doesn't tell how to wire it up...I think that I'm about to forego the park-neutral switch and just install the engine with no safety switch. Thanks again though for your input. Regards, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Tim, Do you have the pig tail connectors for those plugs? Also what year car and model is the PNP from? it's looks like it's from a 4l60E trans. I can look it up for you. Send me an email to anh3pa@hotmail.com and I will send you the files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmcnam Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Okay, I feel like a complete idiot. After several days of fiddling with the ohm meter and the switch I finally decided to double check that it was mounted properly even though I would've bet a million dollars that it was aligned when I bolted it to the brackets. It took me 30 secs to remove the shift lever only to find that it was off (rotated) by a good 20 degrees. Once I aligned the marks in neutral I found the wires within 5 minutes. Bad news...I feel really stupid...good news...the engine is ready to go in for the last time! Moral- Check then re-check even if your SURE you did it right... Regards, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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