driftz240 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 heres what i have 240z with l28et swap, im running a ms1 v2.2 built by diyautotune, msns im using the 4pin hei like in mobys write up, i have everything wired correctly "i belive" as per the wiring diagram provided by mobys writeup. heres what happens when i crank over the car to start it, i smell fuel, "lap top shows injectors are working and so does my nose" i am getting rpm signal, but i dont get spark, i am only getting a spark when the key is turned to the ignition on position then again when it is turned off. i have triple checked the wiring and am confidant it is correct. i have tried another coil and am planning on trying another hei module. but am i missing somthing ovious? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Do you have the two pull-up resistors wired up. One at the hei module G terminal with switched 12volts at the resistor from the Fidle wire. The other going to the G/B wire at the Dist with constant 12volts going to that resistor?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Read this thread and see if that is the problem with your set up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129122 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 yes but i hooked the tps and the f-idle wire together via the resistor, is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I have ms2 v3.0 but I don't see the connection your talking about with a ms v2.2. In moby's writeup you a need a switched 12volt wire going to one end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor is then soldered into the Fidle wire going to terminal G of the hei module. You need a constant 12volt wire going to the b/w wire at the turbo dist. You need a constant 12volt wire going to one end of the resistor going to the Tach wire, the other end of the resistor goes to the g/b wire at the turbo dist. That is all I see, But if you go to msefi.com and find the megamanual link. Click that link and then scroll down until you find schematics and trouble shooting. You will then see the external wiring diagrams for the megasquirt harness, click your 2.2 link. That will hopefully show your wiring diagram for the megasquirt harness. I didn't see that connection anywhere, That may be the problem. Wire #26 Grey wire from the Megasquirt harness should be connected straight to the V-ref terminal of the tps. Wire #21 Dark Blue wire from the harness should be connected to the tps signal terminal. I didn't see any resistors going to the tps. Let us know what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 yeah i have the distributor connection correct, i messed up on the f-idle, i thought it said 5v , witch is why i jumped it with the tps vref wire, it probably needs to be 12v. i think mobys writeup says 5v, am i wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I see what happened. It says v(sv) Which I can see it being misread as 5v. But it is a switched 12volt power wire. You should have it running soon. Hey man, I had to ask Matt at DIY autotune, Moby, Cygnus, and a couple of others for help with getting mine going. I am sure I will have more questions soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 I see what happened. It says v(sv) Which I can see it being misread as 5v. But it is a switched 12volt power wire. You should have it running soon. No, it actually does say v(5v). I installed the pullup resistor to 5 volts. You must have something else going on. Remember that you need a 12 volt power source to the coil positive terminal. Then you also need to connect up the coil to the HEI module as shown in the schematics. Also, the HEI module must be grounded through the bolt holes (one hole has the grounding ring). Let us know if it still doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 hei is correct, grounded well, to the chassis of the car, and i sanded down a spot on the chassis "inner fender" to mount it and applied electric grease to the back of it, it is grounded to the car, does it have to be grounded to ms? so i am correct on jumping tps vref to the fidle wire using a 1k resistor? the hei is installed correctly, i even tried adding a compasitor "stock 280zxt" from the coil to the terminal on the base of the dizzy, still nothing, do i have to download somthing else, it should have been loaded with msns+e from when i got it, and we tryed to tune it with 3.0 i have my base maps and everything in there, im getting rpm signal on the lap top, and injectors are working. maybe i burnt up the hei module. im on the way to ghettozone now with it to test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 i have not opened up the ms unit yet and am running no relay boards. this is a track only car, i have been reading that really i dont need the hei module, is this true, since i have no radio or comforts i can deal with any rfi noise... i have not jumped any xg1/xg2 and shorted out the diode like moby stated. my friend said he dident do that to his z, is this the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Yes, 1K to vref is fine. But you did not say in that response if you have 12 volt power to the coil positive terminal when the key is cranking and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 i have been reading that really i dont need the hei module, is this true, If you had a v3.0 board with a VB921 to drive the coil that would be true, but you have a v2.2 board, so you don't have a coil driver. You need an HEI module or some other coil driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 yes i have 12v to the coil, i just had the module tested, it is ok, do i have to jump somthing on the board? i have read and heard many things. i think you jumped xg1 and xg2 and shorted out the diode, is this what transfers the output to the f-idle circuit. im still kinda confused on how this is working. we are actually using 2.25 not 3 as i thought. my neighbor and i were looking threw the ms manual, and at our programing, constants. well figure it out, its probably somthing very simple. goes the hei have to be grounded to ms or just the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 idl to fidle jumper i was just looking threw mobys write up closer, and i found this, what is ment by jumping idl to fidle? is that on the board. what is idl? on that note i have an ign wire not tach on my harness. also i have dizzy conections 1.gb spliced with tach "my ign wire on harness" hooked to 12v via 1k resistor. 2. i used the same 12v source as listed in 1. but ran it before the resistor to bw dizzy power wire. can i share the same 12v. and is the ign wire "shielded wire" saposed to be spliced with the gb? sorry to post like hell on this, im resurching and trying to find things out at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Sorry Drift, from the pic is sure looks like sv My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 OK, slow down a minute so I can keep up 1. The jumper for idl to fidle is on the relay board. So you don't need it unless you are using a relay board. 2. The XG1, XG2, diode stuff is all for the TACH input to MS. If you are seeing the correct rpm in megatune when you crank(approximately 200-300rpm), then your TACH input stuff is set up correctly. 3. HEI module only needs to be grounded to the Chassis. Put a test light on the FIDLE wire at the HEI module and see if it pulses when you crank the engine. You can also put the test light on the coil negative terminal while cranking and see if it pulses. Maybe it is time to look at your settings in megasquirt. Did you set it up to use FIDLE output as the spark control, maybe you accidentally set it to use a different output for spark control? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 well hei is good, and i did test the coil and fidle, fidle is not pulsing, it seems to be constant 12 volts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 where do i set up to use fidle as a trigger? i must be missing somthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I would recommend using the latest stable release which IIRC is 029y4 or 029y5 of the MSnS code. under "codebase and output functions" The "distributor(msns)" mode would be set to "msns" the reset of those modes would be set to off. "FIDLE function" would be set to "Spark Output A" If you can, post screenshots of your settings for the codebase and functions, also of your spark setup. That will allow a lot more people to help you out here on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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