Noddle Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hi, I'm after some picture showing me the oil return line in the sump (inside the sump), also I need the size of the fitting into the sump. I'm needing to modify my sump when I fit my turbo, since they don't exist (turbo L sumps) here in Oz, Thanks Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 I just bought a t3 drain kit on ebay. A 1/2 NPT fitting, I think. Something like a 5/8 hose and unicoil kit. The clamped it all together. Worked pretty good. Are you using the stock 280zx turbo oil lines? If not, then get some kind of restrictor piece if your running a feed thats too big. T3 oil drain kit- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Billet-Turbocharger-Oil-Drain-Flange-kit-Turbo-T3-T4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300194963389QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW T3 restrictor fitting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Oil-Restrictor-T3-T4-T-series-NPT-Honda-VW-Nissan_W0QQitemZ140203422373QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140203422373 This is the exact fitting that I got, Integrated engineering makes a nice piece, and they have a few other things that are pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 I just punched a hole in my oil pan, and used a taper to taper it out, then threaded the hole. I just bought a t3 drain kit on ebay. A 1/2 NPT fitting, I think. Something like a 5/8 hose and unicoil kit. The clamped it all together. Worked pretty good. Are you using the stock 280zx turbo oil lines? If not, then get some kind of restrictor piece if your running a feed thats too big. T3 oil drain kit- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Billet-Turbocharger-Oil-Drain-Flange-kit-Turbo-T3-T4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300194963389QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW T3 restrictor fitting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Oil-Restrictor-T3-T4-T-series-NPT-Honda-VW-Nissan_W0QQitemZ140203422373QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140203422373 This is the exact fitting that I got, Integrated engineering makes a nice piece, and they have a few other things that are pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine. I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump. So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics. It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough. You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two. Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan. Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan. Now you use the shortest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car. Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time. Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install. Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant. I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver). And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws. Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage. Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves. Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange". Here's a song I wrote about it and performed it with only one finger in true talentless nu-metal fashion to warn any who claim this fabrication as their own. http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/shitflinginmonkeys.wav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 That is so jank-tacularly awesome. How do you keep the metal out of the pan from drilling the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 It won't allow me to edit my post so that I can delete my double post, can somebody delete the double, and this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 That is so jank-tacularly awesome. How do you keep the metal out of the pan from drilling the hole? I don't..............but now you have a hole up high in which to look with a mirror ( I didn't need one) as well as use brake cleaner to spray about and influence anything on the bottom of the pan to exit the drain hole. On a couple of occasions, I have sprayed a piece of a broken piston skirt over to the drain plug hole that is bigger than the hole.........doh! That was on a N/A engine that had never seen a turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted February 7, 2008 Author Share Posted February 7, 2008 Exactly what I wanted, How high should I fit it ?, also I have a "front sump" in my 240K. (K not Z) I had all way though having the pipe protrude into the sump would give the returning oil (I believe this is foamy, from what I have read), a better chance of not building up on the side of the sump. I may be wrong.. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 As high as possible. I did this one a little low for my liking but it's only 1/4 inch lower than the stock setup. Higher is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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