EFI Bible circuit test results (kinda long)

[Mycarispurty]

So my Z idles high (probably the result of the crappy AFM to T/B boot that isn't a stocker and doesn't seal so tightly. However it keeps running rich and smoking. It lets fuel into the oil causing it to thin out and seep past the rings and burn off while running. I know this because before I changed the oil the other day, it got so bad the oil was leaking past either the oil pan or one of the rear seals and leaking badly after I shut the engine off. So I changed the oil, then virtually no smoke for about 3 or 4 minutes of running and it started again. So I want to track down and narrow down whether it's a fuel pressure regulator problem or a sensor problem.

 

Test:

 

1-1: Idle throttle switch

No throttle--saticfactory

Full throttle--satisfactory

 

1-2: Full throttle switch

Part throttle--satisfactory

Full throttle--satisfactory

 

1-3a: AFM resistance #1--satisfactory

 

1-3b: AFM resistance #2--this is supposed to be continuity with a small resistance, my ohm meter measured 165.8 ohms and no continuity

 

1-3c: AFM resistance #3--satisfactory

 

1-4: Air temp sensor resistance--this is supposed to measure around 2250-2750 ohms which is 68 degrees, it's probably mid 70s outside, but only showed 35-39 ohms on my meter

 

1-5: AFM fuel pump contacts--couldn't test due to not having help to hold the AFM flap open

 

1-6: Water temp sensor resistance--this is supposed to measure around 2250-2750 ohms which is 68 degrees, the water is probably around that due to it being mid 70s outside , but only showed 4.73 ohms, and this is a brand new sensor

 

1-7: Fuel pump relay circuit--this should be continuity, but nothing. It could be due to the fact that my fuel pump is wired through a killswitch and not in the standard wiring circuit. However the car will fire up and run so this test probably doesn't matter.

 

1-8: Air regulator and fuel pump circuit--this should be continuity, but nothing. Could be a bad air regulator, could have to do also with the fuel pump wiring.

 

1-9a: ECU ground #1--satisfactory

 

1-9b: ECU ground #2--satisfactory

 

1-9c: ECU ground #3--satisfactory

 

1-9d: ECU ground #4--satisfactory

 

The following tests in group 2 should read the battery voltage with the key to ON, with the key in ON, my battery was reading 11.85.

 

2-1: Ignition coil trigger input circuit--11.78

 

2-2: ECU power input circuit--11.85

 

2-3a: #4 injector circuit--11.9

 

2-3b: #1 injector circuit--11.89

 

2-3c: #5 injector circuit--11.89

 

2-3d: #6 injector circuit--11.89

 

2-3e: #3 injector circuit--11.89

 

2-3f: #2 injector circuit--11.89

 

The following tests in group 3 should read battery voltage with the starter solenoid disconnected and the cold start valve harness unplugged.

 

3-1: Start signal circuit--11.85

 

3-2: Air regulator circuit--11.43, might be some resistance in a connector

 

3-3: Cold start system circuit--this should read little to no voltage, then battery voltage after no more than 15 seconds. At first it ran about 5 volts, then shot up to maybe 7 max after 30 seconds or so and never got any higher.