BLKMGK Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 Okay, I've got a set of CVs out of a ZXT. Is there anything I should do in order to inspect them? I ASSume they cannot be greased or anything, yes? Am now hunting stubs and flanges with two possible local sources when it comes time to remove what I've got should I simply not worry about where the stock stuff is pinned and zip it off? I know it'll trash the threads but is it very hard to unpin? I've only looked at it briefly. Are bearings easy to swap for the rear stubs? I figure while it's apart I might as well. Jumped on the gas for a friend who had given me the CVs and about wet my pants. The drag radials had NO hope of hooking and I had to feather it to keep it under control. Never got past 3/4 throttle either - I'm gonna' need a rev limiter BAD! Glad the U's held up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 "when it comes time to remove what I've got should I simply not worry about where the stock stuff is pinned and zip it off? I know it'll trash the threads but is it very hard to unpin?" I'd like to hear others inputs on this as well. They can be unpinned with a dremel or die grinder but I'm not sure that effort is necessary. It'll trash the outer threads and not the inner ones within the nut exerting the clamping force. So if combined with a pinch type stub nut (ie. not pinned) then it shouldn't be a problem to zip off the old nut IMO. agree/disagree? (Jim, never ever have I had a bad CV axle, If the boots are good I hang onto them and they've treated me fine). You can make sure the tabs on the 'endplate' are bent over full/tight to keep dirt/crap out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 I tried to be "good" with the second stub and grind off the hammered tabs before removing the nut. It's tough because it's hard to grind only the nut. This was also with the entire assembly off the car. The first stub I just hit with the impact wrench. Didn't even think much of it. The threads didn't seem very damaged. I was gonna hit them with this thread file that I have (great tool BTW). But, it didn't seem to need any touching up. So, I guess I would concur with Ross - just take the nuts off. I used the lock nuts that came with the ZXT shafts and threw the 240Z nuts in the trash. Definately replace the bearings if you're removing the stub axles. I'd get them from Ross since he seems to be able to get them cheap. I think I paid $120 for the set. I put the actual figure in a post here somewhere. Not exactly sure, but they were high. The stubs themselves were tricky to remove because the bearings were keeping them in place. I put a big socket on the end of the stub and whacked the crap out of it. The old outer bearings were hard to get off the stubs too. It wasn't too bad. Or at least, it's all relative. I did this work as a subset of the much larger project of redoing the rear suspension, so, it's hard to say how many actual hours were devoted to the stubs/bearings. Say, how did you replace the rear studs without removing the stub axles ? Seems like you switched to 5 lug, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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