Guest namtheman Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 well my buddy needed his rear brakes changed. so i changed them for him. and i left. he called me later that evening saying that his brakes didnt work. i told him to top off the fluid and he said the car still didnt wanna stop. anybody have any input as to what i would need to do? what went wrong? (also i think the brakes need to be bled...but im not sure of the process on these cars....) any input would help please. reply ASAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted August 8, 2008 Administrators Share Posted August 8, 2008 Any time you open ANY brake line, or even crack open a bleeder valve, you should bleed the brake system. If the brakes worked prior to “the brake jobâ€, fluid level never got low enough to introduce air into the system, and the rotors were at least scuffed to some degree during “the brake jobâ€, (helps in bedding in the new brake pads), then the brakes should still work as effectively as they did prior to “the brake jobâ€, otherwise something is amiss and the issue needs to be diagnosed before releasing the car over to the owner. Brake issues are serious and if not resolved?... Well you get the point. Brake bleeding procedure for all Z-32’s is the typical brake bleeding procedure. 1) Pressure bleeding is by far the quickest and easiest method, though the necessary tooling can be expensive to purchase, or time intensive to build on your own. (I built my own using a spare Z-32 master cylinder cap, 1 gallon jug for brake fluid, and pressure regulator for my shop air, reduced down to 10 PSI) 2) With a second person, one in the car, pumping and holding the brake pedal, the other person opening and closing the brake bleeder valves at each wheel also works just fine. This procedure is simple, 100% effective, just time consuming vs pressure bleeding. When bleeding the brakes on the Z-32, be prepared to go through at least 1 quart, if not 2 quarts of brake fluid minimum. The front brake lines run from the master cylinder to behind the passenger seat where the ABS pump resides, then back up to the front of the car. Don’t forget the ABS pump also has bleeder valves on it, so don’t forget to bleed those, and also don’t forget the bleeder valve on the master cylinder itself. Bleed those first. Here is the Factory NISSNA Service manual, brake section, first page. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest namtheman Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Any time you open ANY brake line, or even crack open a bleeder valve, you should bleed the brake system. If the brakes worked prior to “the brake jobâ€, fluid level never got low enough to introduce air into the system, and the rotors were at least scuffed to some degree during “the brake jobâ€, (helps in bedding in the new brake pads), then the brakes should still work as effectively as they did prior to “the brake jobâ€, otherwise something is amiss and the issue needs to be diagnosed before releasing the car over to the owner. Brake issues are serious and if not resolved?... Well you get the point. Brake bleeding procedure for all Z-32’s is the typical brake bleeding procedure. 1) Pressure bleeding is by far the quickest and easiest method, though the necessary tooling can be expensive to purchase, or time intensive to build on your own. (I built my own using a spare Z-32 master cylinder cap, 1 gallon jug for brake fluid, and pressure regulator for my shop air, reduced down to 10 PSI) 2) With a second person, one in the car, pumping and holding the brake pedal, the other person opening and closing the brake bleeder valves at each wheel also works just fine. This procedure is simple, 100% effective, just time consuming vs pressure bleeding. When bleeding the brakes on the Z-32, be prepared to go through at least 1 quart, if not 2 quarts of brake fluid minimum. The front brake lines run from the master cylinder to behind the passenger seat where the ABS pump resides, then back up to the front of the car. Don’t forget the ABS pump also has bleeder valves on it, so don’t forget to bleed those, and also don’t forget the bleeder valve on the master cylinder itself. Bleed those first. Here is the Factory NISSNA Service manual, brake section, first page. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Hope that helps. thank you very much! that was very helpful. i will try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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