zangiefisgod Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 ha ha that might work in maryland but down here it would a heater instead of A/C Yeah, we're not doing too bad right now... Weather for Baltimore, MD Thu 81°F | 61°F Fri 83°F | 65°F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zxls Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Wow its actually hotter there than it is down here. Granted we are getting rained on all weekend. Im starting the removal process. Does anyone have a list of all the crap I have to pull out of the engine bay. I know engine, tran, ecu and wiring harness are a given, but all the pictures I see it looks like everything has been pulled but I wanted to check before I start just pulling stuff out of the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr3 Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I just unplugged all the plugs to the engine and left them in there for now. I still have to take the transmission out then I'll take the unnecessary wires out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Wow its actually hotter there than it is down here. Granted we are getting rained on all weekend. Im starting the removal process. Does anyone have a list of all the crap I have to pull out of the engine bay. I know engine, tran, ecu and wiring harness are a given, but all the pictures I see it looks like everything has been pulled but I wanted to check before I start just pulling stuff out of the engine bay. Great question, I am wondering this as well. Especially when it comes to the vacuum lines that surround the firewall (since it will be cut out)... Does anyone have a STEP BY STEP LS1 prep list??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 No manual for this one guys! If you are referring to my pictures no don't remove the harness unless you want to spend a lot of time building a new one or unless your feeling pretty froggy. I would start by removing the engine, trans and engine harness. Leave the transmission harness in the car as you will need to use part of it. This is the harness that ties into your backup switch (reverse lights), speedo, oil pressure switch, alternator, starter etc... I think they have a engine swap manual with a lot of general swap information that would surely help you guys out. I would also pick up a Nissan 300zx service manual (make sure its a NISSAN FSM not the cheap ones) for tracing all your wiring out. Good luck with the swap guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zxls Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Thanks for the info! Looks like I am to a stopping point now till the funds come up for the tranny and engine... waiting for money BITES!!! lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 What is the best way to fab up the mounts???? If anyone has prints, I would love to have a pair CNC machined. If not, any advice on stock mount fabrication would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zxls Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 I just looked at a local guys 300zx with a 383 stroker in it last night he fabbed his own from metal plates and tubing for the left side and used the stock mount for the right....(wouldnt really recommend that) but its a all else fails life or death quick fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zxls Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 also forgot to ask but what about the wiring harness for the rest of the cars parts? I pulled my whole wiring harness and realized nothing else will work... soo am I going to have to rewire to the ls wiring harness? or what I am not sure what to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 also forgot to ask but what about the wiring harness for the rest of the cars parts? I pulled my whole wiring harness and realized nothing else will work... soo am I going to have to rewire to the ls wiring harness? or what I am not sure what to do I've seen a lot of people on here use the Painless harness, but I'm not sure if everything is compatible. I have only seen one swap (BlackTrax) that has retained the factory gauge cluster... I'd like to know more about this as well... what's the easiest way?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr3 Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 I cant remember his name but I think it was firion__13? He used his stock cluster and he said there was little pots that you could adjust to use the chevy speed senors and tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I have retained the factory gauge cluster and all the factory functions minus a/c and power steering. I also built my car with the understanding that it will not be a daily driver. If you read my post above it tells you what harness you need to tie into to get the majority of the gauge's to work. You will need to run a wire in the new engine harness for the temp sensor for the factory gauge and tie into the accessory connector coming off the engine harness (located under the dash). The trim pots can be adjusted to dial in the tach but I would recomend a ERA (Electronic Ratio Adapter) for the speedo. Here is a link for the one I'm using http://www.abbott-tach.com/era.htm . The guy who posted the way he adjusted the trim pots to calibrate the speedo was TwinTurbo in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 . Here is a great place to get all your wiring information on the Z http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi . Here is Firion 13's thread that also has alot of good information http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125578 . If you look in my build thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141130 you will see how I constructed my mounts. Also there are lots of other good pictures that will be of great value to you guys in all of the above threads including this one. Hope that helps! Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Any have recommendations on the custom drive shaft? Can anyone provide measurements from theirs? I know it will be completely based off the engine placement, but what kinds of prices have you guys seen for a custom length? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I think you can expect a custom shaft to be around $300-450... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 I think you can expect a custom shaft to be around $300-450... Does anyone have any hard data? I've been pricing around, and it would be great to have a comparitable figure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 http://www.wencodriveshafts.com/index.html <--- The best drive shafts around Los Angeles, but I don't know about Maryland. But you can give Wenco a call or email them to find out what they charge. If you get a good enough deal, you can have it sent to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 I have retained the factory gauge cluster and all the factory functions minus a/c and power steering. I also built my car with the understanding that it will not be a daily driver. If you read my post above it tells you what harness you need to tie into to get the majority of the gauge's to work. You will need to run a wire in the new engine harness for the temp sensor for the factory gauge and tie into the accessory connector coming off the engine harness (located under the dash). The trim pots can be adjusted to dial in the tach but I would recomend a ERA (Electronic Ratio Adapter) for the speedo. Here is a link for the one I'm using http://www.abbott-tach.com/era.htm . The guy who posted the way he adjusted the trim pots to calibrate the speedo was TwinTurbo in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 . Here is a great place to get all your wiring information on the Z http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi . Here is Firion 13's thread that also has alot of good information http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125578 . If you look in my build thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141130 you will see how I constructed my mounts. Also there are lots of other good pictures that will be of great value to you guys in all of the above threads including this one. Hope that helps! Dan Dan, Thanks for all the input! Do you have any regrets going the LT1 route? I'm shopping around for motors now and LT1's are so much cheaper!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Absolutely no regrets! I wouldn't change a thing. The LT1 is a great building block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Absolutely no regrets! I wouldn't change a thing. The LT1 is a great building block. Do you know what the weight difference is compared to the LS1? I've read that the LT1 is roughly 60 lbs heavier but I'm not sure how accurate that is. Also, were you running stock cam/heads in your dyno vid? Is your turbo manifold custom? The LS1 seems like a great turbo motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 60Lbs is just about right. The big difference is the iron block. Also, there's a bit more vacuum sensors and random computer crap on the LT1s. LS1s are a bit more simple. In addition, the stock LS1 intake manifold is quite light (being simple and made out of composite plastics) compared to the LT1s aluminum plenum setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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