79 280ZX rear end

[Guest Anonymous]

I have a 1979 280ZX and I was wondering if it has the R200? If not i've located one out of a 83 ZXT and I was wondering what all i need to swap it in? I really appreciate any responses.

 

Thanks,

Matthew

[Guest greimann]

You will have an R200 if your '79 is a GL model with an automatic or a 2+2 with a manual. Another quick way to tell is if you look at the how the half shaft connects to the differential. If there are 4 little bolts in a flange yoke at the diff side of the half shaft, that is R200. If there is one big bolt in the center of the yoke that connects to the differential, that is R180.

 

In order to swap in an R200 from a turbo, you will need the half shafts too as they are not interchangable with an R180. Along with the turbo CV shafts, you will need an adapter for the outer companion flange. Ross C sells these:

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/products/cvadaptor.htm

 

Better yet, pull the whole rear suspension out of the '83 and transplant the entire smash in your car.

[R0N]

all 280z to 89 300zx had R200 diff's. Greimann got it on the money here's the same info but more detailed. I got the gearing info and conversion info from brian little's webpage.

 

all '75-79 280ZX's had a 3.54

all '81-83 turbo ZX's had a 3.54

all '81-83 non-turbo ZX's had a 3.90

the '85-86 200SX turbo had a 4.11

 

CONVERSION NOTES

 

There are 2 versions of flywheels on all '75-83 motors, coupe and 2+2/turbo. 23 lbs each.

 

Coupe and 2+2 clutches aren't interchangeable because the pressureplate dowel holes won't match the flywheel dowels.

You can use a Z 5-speed on any year Z block, and any year L28 clutch can be used, but the throwout bearing "collar" must match the style of the flywheel (coupe or 2+2). In other words, if you have a 2+2 flywheel, you need to change the throwout collar to a 2+2 version when using a coupe trans. And vice-versa.

Auto trans engines have a 1/4" metal spacer between the driveplate and crankshaft, remove this when adding a flywheel.

A pilot bushing needs to be installed in the crankshaft if using an auto trans engine (they didn't get one).

Unless you need the accessories, don't use a big 3-row harmonic balancer in front, get rid of it. Compared to a 280Z 2-row it weighs about 5lbs more. I've read that taking 10lbs off a 10" rear flywheel is the equivalent of taking 207lb off the front of the car. So I believe removing 5lbs from the front of the crankshaft is desirable. Also, I've been told the 3-rows like to break up over 6,000rpm. Nissan makes a

1-row balancer for a reason.

All balancers have identical TDC timing marks and are interchangeable.

[Guest Anonymous]

i have a 79 non gl 280zx. no ps, pl, pw or anything. it is a 5sp and is not a 2+2.

[Guest potterma]

Not quite "all 280z to 89 300zx had R200 diff's."

 

I've got an '81 ZX NA manual with a 3.545 R180 I WISH I had the R200. Had been assuming I had for a while, until I started to really look into it.

 

Oh, well. Add one more thing to add to the swap list....

[R0N]

I wonder if your diff was swap from the original owner? That doesn't sound right. If you are the original owner then wow that's weird, why would they put a weaker diff.

[Guest greimann]

79 to 83 ZX's had R180's and R200's. Here is the breakdown:

 

R200's came in: All turbo models, non-turbo GL models with automatic, and 2+2 models with manual.

 

R180's came in: Non-turbo coup, 2+2 with automatic, Deluxe model with manual.

 

It is cryptic and silly, but that is what the book says.

 

Of the models that came with R200's the ratios were:

 

'79 - 3.36 for Deluxe models (without electric windows)

'79 - 3.7 for GL models (electric windows)

 

'80-83 - 3.9 Non-turbo

'80-83 - 3.54 Turbo

[Guest Anonymous]

If i were to rip out the entire rear suspension out of a 83ZXT, what all do i need to get. Thank you for your help.

 

Matthew

[Guest greimann]

What you are mainly after is the differential, halfshafts, outer wheel flanges, spindles, bearings, trailing arms, and brakes. You could probably re-use your springs, shocks, swaybar, e-brake cable other ancilary items.

 

It just seemed more logical to pull that whole cradle and assembly out and get the entire rear drivetrain as one piece.

[Guest Anonymous]

how much should i look at paying for all of that? Is there anything i should look at at what to look for to tell they are in good condition? I'm not very knowledgeable in the suspension department.

 

Thanks again,

Matthew

[Guest greimann]

I have no idea what that assembly would go for, but if I were looking, I would first look at the odometer of the donor car to see how many miles are on it. Anything under 200K I would say is OK. If it is around 300k, I think I would pass. Next, I would examine the rubber boots around the half shafts to see if they are intact. If they are, you can at least be assured that there was minimal contamination of the grease with abrasive particles. If you can, pull the differential cover and look to see if there are any gear teeth missing, or evidence of SEVERE wear, like knife edging at the top of the teeth. More than likely you will not find any obvious problems and the units will be OK. These are fairly robust pieces of equipment and will run for many hundreds of thousands of miles.