Behold the slave that bleeds!!! A T56 fix

[silicone boy]

Well, there's been a lot of talk over the years about how stupid the T56 clutch slave cylinder is--it has no bleeder, it is made out of plastic, and it uses a stupid non-AN hose fitting (custom GM stuff). JTR, Mike Kelly have advocated tapping the plastic and using a 1/8th to -3AN coupler. I did this at first, but I couldn't leave well enough alone. I'm waiting for some parts (e.g. the Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters that have been backordered for about a year ) and my brain was therefore idle, with nothing else to do, a dangerous situation. I used the spare time to work on the slave problem once and for all. A lot of people have talked about the similarity between the T5 slave and the T56. In fact, the picture in one of the JTR is a T5 with a tapped fitting, even though it says it's a T56. It is almost identical with the exception that it has a bleeder valve. Cool. For those of you that are worried about the plastic thing, forget it. It's pretty much indestructible (I should know, my wife accidentally drove over it when I left in in the driveway . Rather than tapping the plastic, I took a cue from Blkmgk (he used a T56 slave) and used the stock end fitting-or actually, I used the end that goes into the master cylinder since it is a straight, rather than angled one. After all, that's what came with it and is least likely to leak. I cut the tubing a few inches above this with my Sawzall (overkill, but it was within arms length of my computer when I saw Blkmgk's posting on the board from a few months back. I intended to get some pretty hydraulic fittings for the other end, but somehow it didn't work out that way. I was wandering around Home Depot with the slave in my pocket (don't ask me why, I don't know), when I came across their plumbing fittings. They're brass, not anodized aluminum, so I'll probably lose some horsepower, but I stuck a 3/16th barbed to 1/4 in adaptor into the free end. For those of you who are wondering if this by itself is secure enough, I can assure you that it is because it got stuck and I couldn't get it off-I had to assure the HD people that I wasn't trying to steal it. I then put on a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer followed by a 1/8 NPT to -3AN coupler (the last one is not a Home Depot part--I'm sure you knew that, but it's amazing how much quasi automotive stuff you can find a Home Depot, such as Ram Air stuff in the ventilation section. I wonder if you can find LSD's in the lawn tractor department--those riding mowers sure do seems to have a lot of traction off the line). Anyway, here's my finished product. I'm a lot happier with it because has a lot less of that homemade look.

 

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[Mike kZ]

I used the T5 slave on my T56, because of the bleed screw. Both slaves have the same volume, and the T5 is just easier to bleed.