Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 HOW ABOUT THIS ONE??>> ...This engine was built by Brian Bingham and put in my Chevelle two years ago. It has never been raced and has never seen 5,000 RPM’s (although it is more than capable of 7,500+). It only has 1800 miles on it (it sat for a year while the body was getting completely redone and painted) this engine has never seen rain (garage kept, weekend driven). I am 35 years old I don’t tear my investments up. Here’s what you are looking at: Chevy small block 350/.030 over 4-bolt main. It has a polished crankshaft with standard Clevite bearings, “TRW” flat top pistons, chrome molly rings, chrome molley push rods, “Trick Flow” Twisted Wedge ALUMINUM heads (67cc combustion chambers,2.02”/1.60” stainless steel valves) with “Trick Flow” 1.6 roller rockers and “Trick Flow” aluminum valve covers ($1500+ in heads alone). It has a “Holley” 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and Camshaft (.488 lift/234 dur), solid lifters, “Pete Jackson” gear drive, “Fluid Damper” harmonic balancer, “Edelbrock” aluminum water pump and “Flow Tech” ceramic coated headers. You get everything from the carb to the oil pan (with the exception of the distributor) but includes all “March” aluminum pulleys, chrome brackets, timing cover and water neck. You even get the starter and alternator. This engine does not need to be rebuilt!!!! It needs dropped in and fired up, It is ready to go. I have invested over $5,000 in this motor and everything is less than 2 years old and most bolt on parts less than 6 months. You can hear it run before I pull it... < Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 AND ANOTHER ONE>> ...Small-block chevrolet 350 c.i.d. V-8 engine, bored .030 over with TRW forged pistons, Hastings moly rings, a Crane Energizer cam with .450 lift and 274 duration, Clevite rod, main, and cam bearings, a Melling Hi-volume oil pump, and a Cloyes True Roller timing set. Has original connecting rods, crankshaft, and valve-train, all of which either meet or have been machined to meet original tolerances. The block itself has been cleaned twice and remachined, and is free of defects. All gasket surfaces where decked or otherwise cleaned, and mate well. The entire engine is assembled and painted with high-temp chevy blue engine enamel. A new a water pump was installed, along with a new harmonic-balancer and brand-new Edelbrock one-piece aluminum valve covers. Engine has a four-barrel factory manifold installed, and only requires charging, fuel-delivery, and exhaust systems. The engine was a school project, and as such was assembled by me under the supervision of a A.S.E. master-certified instructor. I have personally invested over $1000 in parts alone, as well as an investment of approximately three months of time building it. Engine stand is included... Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 Dan, I think you are getting information overload on the ebay stuff... You might want to pick a mild motor first for two reasons: 1) You never know what you are buying from ebay. 2) A mild motor can still be nicely upgraded in the future, but for now, it will sell for less and save you money. I'd like to offer some advice here: don't buy your first motor from ebay unless you absolutely know what you are doing. You sound like you are almost ina hurry from all your posts--I understand your enthusiasm for the conversion (I nearly go nutz!), but if you have a chunk of change to buy a motor, you are better off buying a reasonably mild motor from a responsible builder/machine shop that advertises in the back of magazines. You can get good deals and know what you are getting up front with many of these firms. Look into it because ebay comes and goes, and you don't want to make an expensive mistake on your first one. Just my $.02 Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 how much should i be looking to spend on the first engine? I mean I have a chunk of change to get the car done with, but I'm not exactly sure what's good and what's not, but i figure i might as well get an engine with at least some mods done to it, right? I guess what i need now i just a good base to build from. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 The GM dealers sell new engines that range in price from $1500 to $3000 on avg for a SBC. This does not include carb or sometimes an intake manifold, or alternator, etc. IMO you should buy something that fits into a total outlay of what you want to spend for an engine. Want to spend $2500? Then look for an engine that costs around $1700-$2000 and you'll be about $2500 when all is said and done. I agree with you in principle that all things being equal, get the engine that already has some performance parts, etc, built into the motor. Or, you can go on what the builders say is the HP rating for the engine. Do you want 300 hp, 350 hp, 400 hp? That will determine the price you pay many times. Just figure that whatever you spend, there will always be expenditures you never counted on. Be conservative on choosing the motor and then grow from there. The ratio is something like, "figure out what you think this will all cost, and then add 30% more to get a more realistic figure. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 25, 2001 Share Posted June 25, 2001 say i want around a 300 hp engine, with low or no miles on it, including all parts i'm gonna need, what do you think it will cost? dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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