Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 ok, since many of you know, i am not the most mechanically-inclined person, thus my post here. i am going to pull the engine to paint it, an while it's out, might as well do some tinkering. what would you guys recommend doing to a v8 with intake, exhuast, headers, and a cam, and what would give me the most bang for the buck, short of a big blue bottle(which is definitely in the future btw). any and all suggestions are welcome. thanks a lot. dan [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 Well, depending on how far you want to go, there are a couple of things I did to my motor that were mostly bolt-ons: 1)Made sure that the engine was at TDC and then stabbed in a performance cam, lifters, timing set, and pushrods. 2)Installed an aluminum performance intake manifold and Holley carb (still waiting on the carb from MJ) 3)Installed block-hugger headers and nice valve covers. 4)Upgraded my HEI disty by installing an Accel SuperCoil and recurve kit. Performance wires. 5)Got a good deal on ebay for an aluminum waterpump and stainless allen bolts for the whole engine. You can go as far as you want to--I have not purchased heads yet because I can't afford it right now, but that'll do me fine for the time being. When I get new heads, I'll install the performance springs, and Comp Cams roller rockers that I have. I used RedLine assembly lube for the cam & lifters and am very pleased by the tenacity of the lube to retain it's consistency and not run like other lubes do. I highly recommend it. Make sure you follow a very good book's advice when doing modifications and installs, otherwise you may screw something up. Having a knowledgeable friend to guide you is priceless and the work will go much faster. Davy [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 As Davy said, bolts ons are the best bang per buck on a budget. The cam specifically is the personality of the motor. Remember that the motor is a air pump. More air/fuel in, more air flowing out = more power. This is a generality but thats it in a nut shell. Put in a decent little cam, aluminum intake manifold and the blockhuggers for the swap, GM HEI (preferably with a performance module and coil in it) distributor and you'll have a fine street runner that'll make ya proud and surprise the hell out of the unsuspecting stock 'performance cars'. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 how much would it cost to bore out the engine, say .030(saw it somewhere)? and what would i need to replace after that?(pistons, rods maybe?) the engine has a holley 750 and block hugger headers and a aftermarket intake and cam. is there a certain setup i should be leaning towards? i see a lot of guys with similar setups, but most have what JP does(the guy who just posted his 12.69 1/4). i just want to get the engine running between 380-400 HP, and i'd imagine with a v8, it's not all that difficult. thanks again. dan <----mechanically-declined BTW: what does TDC mean? and how much would lifters, a timing set, and pushrods cost me? [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 TDC stands for Top Dead Center which is the point in the cycle when the pistons are at the top of the block. As for the prices on those parts I'm not sure but you could check summit racing for an idea. Address is http://www.summitracing.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 Dan, it looks like you are going to do a complete rebuild. By the time you are done, you could get more power for less dough if you buy a short block (engine w/o heads) or long block (engine w/heads) from a mail order speed shop like Speed-o-motive or RPM Engines, etc, etc. If you are seriously looking at building a motor, you might want to talk to a machine shop in your area to get prices. My Camaro motor has a good stock bottom end and I don't need to rebuild it yet--I'm keeping that in place and just adding bolt-ons and cam which I can do myself with the help of a book and a friend. I don't know a good definition of TDC, but here it goes: TDC is "top dead center" when piston #1 is at it's highest point and when the intake and exhaust valves are closed. It's in the "firing" position I believe. Double check that, because I don't have a book in front of me. HTH (hope that helps) Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 My bad, I forgot to mention that it was piston 1 you're concerned about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 so with what's done to the engine aleady, there isn't a whole lot more i can do with out just rebuilding the engine anyway? if that's the case, then i guess i can just clean everything up and see if there are better aftermarket parts than what is on it right now than. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 Yeah, if the bottom end (block & pistons, rods, etc, are in good working order, keep 'em! Just do the top end stuff that is relatively easy to do and less expensive (heads excluded) to do. If I thought the engine was in overall good shape, I'd leave it alone, with the one exception of the cam and only if I didn't know the specs. I would only replace the timing chain if I knew the miles were high. Just some food for thought. You really don't want to do more work than you have to, because what happens is that the project ends up mushrooming (ask Pete) into a full blown rebuild and restification, which drains time, money, and years of your life. I should take my own advice on this list: 1) get JTR manual 2) get car 3) get engine & tranny 4) get misc things to complete car In a very broad sense, this is the general order in which to do things IMO. I pull that from the advice of others and from my own experience. Again, I should have followed my own advice--but at least I'm learning! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted June 29, 2001 Share Posted June 29, 2001 Howdy, Karma, We've never met, but I consider everyone on this list to be a friend, and that includes you. I'm probably going to come across as a total ass for saying what I'm going to say, but I'd feel like I wasn't a friend to you if I didn't. Bearing that in mind, here goes... Slow down. If you don't have a very, VERY firm grasp of basic engine building concepts (like TDC, for example) then you aren't ready to go poking around inside your engine. For all the simplicity of the carbureted, pushrod engine, they're still complicated pieces of machinery, and if you screw up one little thing (like forgetting to put in an oil galley plug) you can throw $2,000 and a week's worth of work down the toilet very quickly. I'm concerned that you are jumping into this feet first, without the preparation necessary to fabricate your own car (which is, essentially, what most of us here are doing) This is a tremendously cool chassis/engine combination, and I encourage you to pursue your goal of a V8 Z-car. But please, PLEASE, make haste sloooowly. Be careful, and be very sure of what you're doing. If you're not mechanically inclined, a 380 HP engine buildup might be biting off a bit more than you can comfortably chew for your very first engine build. It's definitely not a "trainer"! I've been wrenching on engines for twenty years now (although this IS my first pushrod engine...) and I'm still a bit intimidated by thought of building my own engine from the block up! And this doesn't even begin to touch on the other mechanical aspects of stuffing an engine with two or three times the factory horsepower into a little Z. In a car that is THIS fast, your brakes, suspension, driveline, etc. ALL have to work pretty much perfectly, or the car will eventually turn around and bite you. (see THANK FRIGGIN GOD I"M ALIVE!!!!!!!!in the "Announcements" section for evidence of this). When cars this powerful play, they play for keeps. I hope you don't take this the wrong way, Dan. I just don't want to see you get hurt. I'm anxious to see you build your car, but I'm also anxious to see both the car and YOU live long enough to bring home some winning timeslips!! Thanks for listening to me, and I truly hope I didn't piss you off. [ June 29, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted June 29, 2001 Share Posted June 29, 2001 Scott, that was beautiful Sage advice! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Neil Posted June 29, 2001 Share Posted June 29, 2001 Karma, I'm kind of in the same situation you it seems. I've always wanted a Z, but know jack about cars. What i've done is this: 1) ask lots of questions on this site. These guys are great and very tollerant (thanks guys ) This will help with step 2. 2) Find a good performance shop in your area. Asking lots of questions on this site will help you sound like you know what you are talking about. 3) Sell stuff or get a loan to finance your project and let the shop do all of the work. 4) Try to learn as much stuff about cars so you can build your next Z, or at least, work on the one that you now own. 5) Keep checking this site so you can laught at everyone as they gripe about their car being in peices with this and that needing repairs but they don't have time/money to do it, while you drive your Z. Just poking fun, but this is my plan. You may or may not want to follow it. Loan payments = car payments in my book. And if I spend $12,000 on my Z to get new engine, tranny, body, interior, plus extras, that's better than getting a car of equal performance/style for $50,000. Just my $.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted July 2, 2001 Share Posted July 2, 2001 Dan, Everyone's advise thus far has been proper & insightful. Do not, and I repeat "DO NOT" get in a hurry when making your swap. Before you purchase one component; you need to purchase the JTR manual as previously advised, and read it till you have it memorized! As Scott illuded to earlier; if you are not mechanically inclined-please take your time & if there is anyone you can petition for help (a buddy or relative) for assistance-then do so. As much fun as a perf.build can be-it can also be quite dangerous (safety first) as there are so many ways for something bad to happen that it sometimes boggles the mind. Just today I was jacking all 4 corners up on an Uncle's car (visiting from Kansas) & the rear jack stands began leaning forward as I was jacking up the front end-you have to be watching for simple things like this, OR THE CAR COULD FALL ON YOU WHILE YOU'RE UNDER IT! There are too many ways to lose a limb, finger or toe for the first timer; the process is not complicated-just dangerous if certain precaustions are ignored or unknown. Everyone here, with any kind of experience, has some war stories to tell, nontheless-everyone hear also had to cross the bridge of their "First Time" to pull/rebuild an engine or restify a car. If you dont have a friend or relative who can offer assistance-then please take your time & ask boo'coo's of questions...remember to take you time & always put "SAFETY FIRST". As for suggestions: What are you desires-to go racing or to driver the car on the street as your daily driver? This will determine what your requirements will be. BTW: 350hp from a SBC is peanuts now days & would make a decent street engine in the Z! Hope this helps...remember-buy the JTR manual & memorize it/then ask all the questions you can think of. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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