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Geting a stocker through,part two


Guest RON JONES

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Guest RON JONES

Well guys I put a can of that STUFF in and retarded the timeing as much as I could,new plugs and took the air cleaner out.It failed?I really thought the timeing thing was goimg to work,but the #'s were better the first time? Any ideas?The car runs great,doesn't smoke and has power.How Can I get this thing to pass?

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Post your before/after numbers and limits you have to meet if you can......sorry it didn't work this time. If you failed the idle test I guess 5psi in Mickey Thompson ET's couldnt' explain that icon_rolleyes.gif

 

Were you running premium gas? I toss in 1/2 litre methyl hydrate per half tank with highest octane gas (ie. most crap/least gas). Simply put the less 'real gas' in their the less emissions. Although I'm leary of the methyl hydrate's effects I've no known problems from it to date.

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It really bothers me that the car will still not pass emissions. There must be something really wrong somewhere to have that happen. This forum is very good at making emissions icon_rolleyes.gif but not very good at eliminating them??

 

Sorry to bail on you, but I'm out of ideas. There has to be something very wrong somewhere, though, for that car not to pass. I'm very puzzled. Sorry, Bub. icon_sad.gif

 

David

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Ron, If the NOx numbers still aren't very high try advancing the timing. Advancing the timing causes the combustion temp. to go up which lowers both HC and CO. Just don't run it up to high so it fails on the NOx level.

 

The problem is that it's like a see saw. HC & CO on one side and NOx on the other.

 

BTW, preventing the EGR valve from opening will drastically lower both HC and CO but watch out for the NOx level.

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Guest Anonymous

I could be wrong, but I thought it was the other way around, retarding the timing will raise engine temp. They used to sell a simple nox kit that was just a rubber cap to put on the vacuum advance port (disconnecting it from the distributor) ad you'd set the static timing 1/2 of what it was originally. This presumably would lower Nox emissions. I could be wrong though, I never was one to know much about smog controls outside of how the heck to get them off the engine. icon_wink.gif

 

Lone

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quote:

Originally posted by lonehdrider:

They used to sell a simple nox kit that was just a rubber cap to put on the vacuum advance port (disconnecting it from the distributor) ad you'd set the static timing 1/2 of what it was originally.

 

I forgot to mention that I think. I yank my vac. advance hose from my dizzy and put the tube on a T bolt for my valve cover in my smog 'tune' icon_biggrin.gif Timing in any way just seems bad for me and from my memory on smog tests.

 

Previous shop puts ball bearing in the hose to be stealthy but I don't care about that icon_rolleyes.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Heh, funny you mention that. I had a old ranger with a 2.3l in it, it starting idling really crappy and I couldn't figure it out. Finally, took it to Ford and they replaced the EGR valve which worked for all of two weeks. I found if I unhooked the EGR and plugged it, it would run smoothly. I eventually just cut off a small machine screw and pushed it inside the hose and hooked it back up. Idled great then, didn't smog it again as it was a lease vehicle and turned it in. icon_smile.gif

 

Lone

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Guest RON JONES

The NO #'s are fine,lots of room there.Its the CO #'s that are the problem.The frist test was 5.27% and the second test(with the timing retarded)was 5.44%.I was talking to a guy at the track who told me to run some alcohol mixed in with the gas.He did this twice and it worked.I'm not talking about a coulple of those little fuel line anti-freeze cans,He's talking about a few gallons of race fuel!Also when I retarded the timing the Engine temp did go up a good 30 degrees.

 

[ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: RON JONES ]

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Ron sorry about the delay, but my mechanic friend has been too busy to talk with me. Maybe Randy from Modesto can chime in, he may have some good ideas. You could try to email him too. He's a Ford tech, but has a FI turbo'd 280Z.

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Ron, The new "Clean Air" fuel has alcohol in it.

 

You didn't hear it from me but I'd plug the vacuum line going to the EGR valve, run the timing up to about 14-16 degrees, run it hard and take it back through. I think it will make it.

 

Sounds like the converter is a bit weak but you should still be able to make it. icon_rolleyes.gif

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Guest RON JONES

Yea,I'm thinking the converter is not doing its job as well.I'm not as worried as I was before about it.It passed inspection(not emissions) and I got My hard plates for it.I'll get it figured out one way or another.

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