jasper Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 1) I have Minilite wheels on the 260Z. I believe them to be real Magnesium. Does ANYONE have knowledge on how to determine if they are Magnesium ??? 2) I read this on another forum and it was very unsetteling; "Old magnesium wheels may look good but can be as brittle at glass. Better get them x-rayed or magnafluxed or whatever the kind method one would use to check them for cracks and such. Unless of course you are going to use them on a trailer-queen... " 3) I started to mount the Sumitomo HTR'S tonight. I cut the old valves out. I then found that they are much larger than the standard tire valve!!! I called 4 parts stores. No help. They resemble truck tire valves (larger diameter). Maybe i can go with bolt ins??? ANY info on these wheels, etc would be very much appreciated....Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I searched the web for an hour and a half and got #3 resolved. Milton makes the correct valve for the wheel. The rubber valve removed was for a steel wheel, and was dangerous at best!!! Milton Hi-Performance Tire Valve MILS-409 • For use with mag, aluminum, exposed or reversed chrome wheels • Clamp-in type, brass chrome plated • Complete with two grommets to fit .453 or .625 valve holes Still concerned about magnesium deterioration........anyone????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Based on the wording of the quote you posted, I'm willing to bet that that guy was just reposting rumors he's heard. Aluminum and magnesium both have a finite fatigue life. So if the wheels are old, and you're planning on racing with them, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to get them dye penetrant tested (same thing would go for an aluminum wheel). If they look good (not corroded or visible cracks) and you're using them on the street, then just run them. They are more susceptible to corrosion than aluminum, so they should be coated with something if they're not already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 Bad news. The valves didn't work out. The mounting/sealing surfaces are not paralell. The inner sealing surface appears to be concave, and partially in the radius of the wheel. Plain and simple...They leak. Yes the wheels are painted. They look like they lived the good life,18yrs of storage , at a minimum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgunz Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I ran minilites for years. If they are 14 x 6.5 with 13mm offset then they are the aluminum ones. You never bothered to mention the size and what they weigh. Nor did you furnish any markings or photos of markings. The valve holes in mine were large also. I picked up and installed a set of the chrome valves like you show. They fit pretty good. On the inside seal I used some blue RTV silicone gasket maker. Worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 We're almost out of the woods. I forgot I had a friend/aquintance who was a machinist. We had a chat over the wheels and assocciated parts. We came up with a pilot bushing and face broach set up, "witch he had on the shelf", A few turns of the magic tool, gave me paralell sealing surfaces, and what looks like a factory fit. I'll finish the other 2 wheels tomorrow. FYI ....local machinist who digs cars and bikes. Has a machine shop in his back yard...Sharp guy . WILL MACHINE FOR CASH......GREAT GUY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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