jeromio Posted January 26, 2003 Share Posted January 26, 2003 My ignition switch seems to be flawed. The Black/white "Run" wire goes 0 volts when you turn it to "Start" (Black/yellow wire). My car used to start and run fine with the L28, so, I dunno what's up with this thing. I just got most everything sorted - enough that I put gas and oil in and tried to start it. And tried, and tried, and tried. Then I put a light on the ignition on fuse and noticed that it turned off when the key went to Start!? So, How do I compensate for this? I can't just put a jumper from the Run pole to the Start pole because then it Starts when it's in the Run position (which sounds obvious, but I tried it anyway ). I have a hard time looking at the switch diagram in the Haynes 240Z manual I have (tiny, grainy picture), but the CDROM 280Z manual seems to (well, blurrily) show that the Run position has power even in Start position. I mean, otherwise how is the coil supposed to get power while starting? So, I guess I'm gonna go buy a new ignition switch. I got the 87 Maxma column switch setup (ala Owen), so, I guess it would be key to get a Maxima switch to go with that. Sucks having 2 separate keys though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Jeronimo. before you buy another igition switch bypass the ignition and "hot wire" the plastic terminal that should have 4-5 wires running to it..Wire colors may be different..Your solid white wire and the black and white wire should turn the dash gauges on when connected together and also have the igntion circuit ON...These 2 wires should be on opposite ends of the pastic terminal from each other. The 'black and yellow' wire momemtarily jumped to the 'white and black' and 'white' wires should engage the starter. The starter wire (black and yellow) is usually found opposite the black and white wire. In other words Find what two wires turn on the gauges and connect them and then find the one wire that engages the starter and momentarily touch it to the other 2 wires.Out of five wires you only have to find 3 and connect 2 and then touch one more wire to them. a slim Jim and you are in the midnight auto parts business. I always keep a known good ignition switch to test other ignition switchs and OEM Zees had a terminal after the ignition seitch was disconnected, a screw driver placed in a slot and turnned would start the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted January 27, 2003 Author Share Posted January 27, 2003 I have everything completely disassembled. I pulled the dash and untaped all the wires. I then isolated out the 5 wires that go to the ignition switch. I have a white/red wire that is the supply to the switch. There is a green/red wire that I know is associated with the instrument panel, etc. lights, but it never shows continuity with the fat white/red wire. Not sure why. Then there's the blue/red accessory wire that I have running to a relay that then powers up 6 accessory fuses (nothing connected to them yet). The black/white wire is the On or Run wire and the black/yellow wire is the Start wire. So, the switch joins the supply, white/red to the Blue/red accessory wire when in the Accessory and On/Run positions. Both the blue/red and the black/white are then joined to the white/red supply when the switch is turned to the On/Run position. But, when the key is switched to the Start position, only the black/yellow wire is joined to white/red. Everything else is cut. This is my dilemma. I would expect black/yellow and black/white to be switched on in the Start position (and blue/red to be off). I just went to the auto parts store where I was quoted $220 for an 87 Maxima ignition switch assembly!! That ain't gonna fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Hi Jero, Have you figured out the wires yet? I have an extra ig switch that you can borrow or you can come by my house and take a look at the known good one in my z - it is up on blocks right now for brake work. Email me at damian.craig@duke.edu if you want to meet. Damian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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