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280 Turbo Swap FAQ, When things dont go acording to plan


Guest ttoude

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Guest ttoude

Ok, I've followed the instructions, searched until my keyboard bled and it still wont start.

 

:::Whats wrong::::

 

1. I found out that my 81 motor (unconfirmed) has a 82-83 harness, no dropping resistor harness etc. And 2 CAS plugs one from the CAS down by the crank AND a CAS harness coming from the bottom of the distributor. A guy in the FAQ states his Z runs with a 81 motor and a 83 harness/ECU.

 

2. No green LED from the 83 ECU, but I did get a green from the 81 turbo ECU.

 

3. And to start things from the beginning, NO spark from the coil when cranking. I do feel it will start if I could figure out the spark issue

 

4. can't really find much on the 83 to 280z turbo swap.

 

5. enough frustration to just set the whole thing on fire and buy a Chevette.

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Guest ttoude

What I've done so far.

 

1. The motor is a "going in as is" deal with good compression. New clutch, as much "New" stuff as the budget would allow.

 

2. Motor is in and squared away. wired up the ECU + Harness as the FAQ instructed for a 1981 then altered that per the discovery of the 83 harness on my 81 motor.

 

3. Altered the wiring per The FSM diagrams for a 1983 turbo and still no spark.

The diagram states Terminal 5 on the ECU connector for the yellow coil wire and the B/W wire goes to the injector relay.

 

4. Swapped out 3 known good coils and still no lead coil wire spark. CRAP!!!!

 

Please help

Edited by ttoude
hjhfdjh
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Man I hear you! I am going through the swap right now but at least I had the 83 donar car sitting here too. The info here on the swap is dreadfully innaccurate to say the least. At least 4 different posts have the same wires going different places (hot, ground, not used, pigtailed to another). The color wire diagram has colored wires to plugs that aren't correct, so then do you go by pin locaton or by wire color?? UGH! I got ignition and it actually started and ran, but severly overfuel and now only marginally stumbles. I am out of time soon due to scheduled surgery so won't get back to it for a month. Plus, I have read about the green LED for the 83 zx. I still haven't figured that out. I am assuming LED is a light? No such thing on this car. And, by the way, both the fuel injection relay and the fuel pump relay are the same color with many of the same wires. What a struggle to figure out that from the posts........

 

Good luck. I hope you have better luck getting help than I have had.

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Its the injectors. The injectors test fine for continuity but wont spray. the Harness tests good for 12v.

 

The last nail is that it runs fine with starter fluid. Time to button this thing up.

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It started, love that turbo wwwhhuuurrr!!!!

It was the injectors, ALL six would not shoot six years of sitting I guess.

 

to all those guys and girls thinkin about it. STOP THINKING AND DROP THAT SUCKER IN

Yes its scary, I havent done a swap in 20 years, but I was WAY easier than I thought.

Thank You Hybrid Z and the FSM

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJDM01R5tR8

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  • 3 weeks later...

Check your ABC's, I didnt and it cost me a month of downtime.

 

(A) Airway: Air flow meter door and resistance on leads

 

(B) Breathing: Turbo, intake for leaks and exhaust.

 

© Circulation: Correct fuel pump, lines, Injector spark plug, and ignition wiring. Look very closely at the swap pics.

 

If you don't have A don't go to B, If you don't have B don't go to C, If it still wont start go back to A

 

With all thats happening lately I got frustrated and over looked the basics. The air flow meter tested bad.

 

I understand to most of the guys on this site this info sounds stupid. But you've had a Z for years or been around Z's for years. This post is for the guy that stumbles on a once in a liftime deal on a Z and goes for it despite his real world problems.

 

I'm happy to help that guy, just PM me.

 

But its running now, finally

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1265057554.jpg

 

1265057552.jpg

 

YES THATS A BALL BEARING!!!!

 

I replaced all lines when i got the motor as a matter of course EXCEPT this one.

I just happened to pull the vac line for the FPR and as a habit i blew into it and it was completely clogged. it was imitating a bad fpr AND a bad afm, with no vac to the fpr.

 

An old mechanic at work said that they used to do this at the fuel pump on carb'ed cars a long time ago to prevent back flow.

 

also keep in mind this motor was dropped in 'as is' to maintain daily drivability and a fresh motor is being built to keep cycling motor from season to season

Edited by ttoude
GUIGU
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I'm having the same problem Just bought a new FPR will check the lines now after seeing this. My spark plugs are fouled and smell of gas.

 

Photo_013110_002-1.jpg

 

Check this also

hard section of fuel return was also occluded with what looked like black aluminium foil pieces.

 

I used a brake cable from my bicycle to clear the clot it took 10 min of jabbing at it to clear the line.

 

The symptoms were a REALLY big REALLY cool BBQ type steady flame from my pipe cause of the constant 95 psi of fuel right to the injectors. In effect the FPR was isolated in the system from above (vac) and below (fuel return) and even after replacing it it still had the same running rich, plug fouling problems.

 

Friggin ball bearing and clot had me questioning my choice in recreational activities!!!!

 

And did you know antifreeze is flamible? I know now :fmad:

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Ok, two test drives and two burnouts later. it still runs. Kinda rich but no flames yet.

 

I did crank the motor with the injectors out but still connected to the rail and #5 injector is kinda leaky.

 

I guess some vindication was while I was praying I turned the key to the on position and I heard the fuel pump and a second later I heard bubbling in the tank, the return line was clear

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