datjunky Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Hey Z Fellers, I have a 72 that I have swapped an 81 drivetrain into, including the distributor. I followed a link on this site for the wiring of the distributor. Last sunday, I attempted to start it for the first time.. It started! But as soon as I realease the key from the "start" position it dies. Like its only completing a circuit in that position. I have not touched the tach. I know Im close and it must be simple.. I only have a few hours on sunday to touch it again, so Im hoping to have a little more direction, rather than spending my few hours on this site searching. Any trouble shooting direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. datjunky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Hey Z Fellers, I have a 72 that I have swapped an 81 drivetrain into, including the distributor. I followed a link on this site for the wiring of the distributor. Last sunday, I attempted to start it for the first time.. It started! But as soon as I realease the key from the "start" position it dies. Like its only completing a circuit in that position. I have not touched the tach. I know Im close and it must be simple.. I only have a few hours on sunday to touch it again, so Im hoping to have a little more direction, rather than spending my few hours on this site searching. Any trouble shooting direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. datjunky I am seeing this more and more lately. I dont know if this applies to you, but you cannot just remove the stock ballast resistor, you have to make a jumper to bypass it, otherwise, the ignition will only get power during the "start" phase. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datjunky Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 I am seeing this more and more lately. I dont know if this applies to you, but you cannot just remove the stock ballast resistor, you have to make a jumper to bypass it, otherwise, the ignition will only get power during the "start" phase. Hope this helps. thanks... But I did use a jumper on the ceramic resistor.. Any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vantage Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 thanks... But I did use a jumper on the ceramic resistor.. Any other thoughts? The wiring chart below might help. Dtsnlvrs is right, in your current setup you probably get power only via the start position of the ignition key, so the engine dies as soon as the key is back to ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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