Electric Vacuum Pump

[510six]

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I had a Total Seal $%&^* ring break in my motor and the rings prematurely wear the other cyl,the 3 liter stroker was pulled out of the car. A temp solution was found by way of a recently rebuilt $200 NA L28e motor from Craigslist, the car was recently tuned to 8 psi with the T67 and using E85 as fuel under boost. The car feels pretty quick esp considering the bone stock L28. On the plus side the pistons are still OK, but another block will have to be race prepped(to the tune of about $600 worth of machine work).

 

 

I am currently using a Chevy LT1 electric smog pump modified to be used as a vacuum pump,it works great but needs to stay on for a few seconds after boost to help evacuate excess crankcase pressure. This is a circut made to do just that.

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=SKUrM0dwXao

Edited May 3, 2010 by 510six

[510six]

 

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After trying several possible solutions to keep oil smoke from coming out the exhaust after boost (the ONLY time the car smokes oil is right after boost .The crankcase is vented with one 5/8 hose out of the block and another out of the valve cover into an aircraft style air/oil seperator which has an oil drain back to the pan.

 

The motor is a Nissan L 28 bored/stroked to 3 liters forged piston, Cunningham rods, with a T04S T67 / T3 ball bearing turbo with a oil restrictor and a 7/8" drain back to the pan , so the drain and the restrictor were not the problem. It was suggested to me from a friend who has to use a electric smog pump from a mid 90`s LT1 F body modified to act like a vacuum pump.The pump is activated with the supplimental fuel pumpcontrol (thanks AEM) for the ethanol side of the fuel system on the car which activates after 2k rpm and 40% throttle.A circut is being contructed to allow the pump to operate for 5 seconds after boost.

 

http://www.turbobuic...g-pump-how.html

 

 

The car is smoother at rpm under boost and smoke after boost is not as noticable, this should be be better when the pump is allowed to stay on after boost.

Edited May 5, 2010 by 510six

[nish]

FYI to others who might try this, the pump found on the vehicles below is easier to come across than an LT1 unit. The other nice thing is they have a nice section of wiring harness that has a dedicated fuse/relay block you can chop out to make wiring easier.

 

 

CHEVROLET BLAZER(1999 - 2000)

CHEVROLET BLAZER TRAILBLAZER(1999 - 2000)

CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP(1999 - 2000)

GMC JIMMY(1999 - 2000)

GMC JIMMY ENVOY(1999 - 2000)

GMC SONOMA(1999 - 2000)

[nish]

FYI to others who might try this, the pump found on the vehicles below is easier to come across than an LT1 unit. The other nice thing is they have a nice section of wiring harness that has a dedicated fuse/relay block you can chop out to make wiring easier.

 

 

CHEVROLET BLAZER(1999 - 2000)

CHEVROLET BLAZER TRAILBLAZER(1999 - 2000)

CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP(1999 - 2000)

GMC JIMMY(1999 - 2000)

GMC JIMMY ENVOY(1999 - 2000)

GMC SONOMA(1999 - 2000)

 

Time delay reference:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~117810~KW~delay~PN~0~TPN~1