Loss of power. Bear with me.

[ComicArtist]

My N/A to turbo build is on the verge of being done.

 

 

The final step was welding the distributor advance, and a friend of mine at Toyota was doing it. But after that, it seemed to lose all power at all. Literally, there's absolutely no pull at all. Fuel pressure is where it should be, it's not running rich, so I'm assuming the power loss has to do with the spark.

 

So, while welding the distributor advance, me and my buddy figured out that my ancient distributor is just crapping out. So I'm looking for either a new, refurbished, or upgraded distributor.

 

Is it possible to put a turbo distributor in an N/A engine? I've never really heard of anyone doing it, but if I could, I should be able to run that without welding the mechanical advance.

 

If not, I'm looking at the MSD upgrade. Just trying to get some input on it.

 

Thank you.

[BRAAP]

My N/A to turbo build is on the verge of being done.

 

 

The final step was welding the distributor advance, and a friend of mine at Toyota was doing it. But after that, it seemed to lose all power at all. Literally, there's absolutely no pull at all. Fuel pressure is where it should be, it's not running rich, so I'm assuming the power loss has to do with the spark.

 

So, while welding the distributor advance, me and my buddy figured out that my ancient distributor is just crapping out. So I'm looking for either a new, refurbished, or upgraded distributor.

 

Is it possible to put a turbo distributor in an N/A engine? I've never really heard of anyone doing it, but if I could, I should be able to run that without welding the mechanical advance.

 

If not, I'm looking at the MSD upgrade. Just trying to get some input on it.

 

Thank you.

 

Soooo, you and Dr. Toyota locked the mechanical advance so the ignition timing was fixed regardless of RPM? Curious why you two would do such a thing with no other means to advance the igniton timing as RPMS increase, (computer controlled etc...)? You just learned how valuable and sensitive ignition timing is, for producing power! In short, locking the mechanical advance with no other means to add timing as RPMS increase will kill ALL power and burn your exhaust valves in short order! Do NOT run your engine for any length of time with that much ignition retard!

The L-series loves between 36-40 or degrees of ignition timing during WOT above 3000 RPM, (even up to 50 degrees at part throttle cruising conditions, i.e. vacuum advance. That is were your MPG come from). . The engine wont run with that much advance at lower RPM's. Any more than 17-20 degrees at idle is too much, hence the sprung-fly-weighted mechanical advance that allows 15 degrees at the lower RPM and the much needed 36 or so above 3000 RPM.

If the dizzy was crapping out, welding the flyweights was the flush!

 

 

If your ignition timing was locked and you set it at stock idle setting, if the car reached 60 MPH in less than 30 seconds, you were going down hill!