jas280z Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I am in the process of putting my engine back into the car (transmission is still in the car). The tapped hole on the back of the block, lower left hand side looking at the back of the block, is mostly stripped and doesn't have enough threads left for the bolt to be tightly torqued. My plan was to put an M10x1.5 heli-coil in the hole and call it a day, but this is the hole which has the alignment dowel in it, and I think that in order to drill the hole out for the heli-coil I would have to remove the dowel. I am looking for suggestions on how to fix this problem. One thought I had was to drill all the way through the hole in the block (it already has a pinhole on the other side) and grind out a flat landing so I could just put the bolt through and use a nut. I am just a little unsure of whether or not this would be strong enough. I don't think there will be a lot of normal stress, but when the engine is putting out a lot of torque there may be considerable sheer stress, and I would hate to overly weaken that flange on the block by removing material. Any thoughts, even if they are just to call me a moron, are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I am in the process of putting my engine back into the car (transmission is still in the car). The tapped hole on the back of the block, lower left hand side looking at the back of the block, is mostly stripped and doesn't have enough threads left for the bolt to be tightly torqued. My plan was to put an M10x1.5 heli-coil in the hole and call it a day, but this is the hole which has the alignment dowel in it, and I think that in order to drill the hole out for the heli-coil I would have to remove the dowel. I am looking for suggestions on how to fix this problem. One thought I had was to drill all the way through the hole in the block (it already has a pinhole on the other side) and grind out a flat landing so I could just put the bolt through and use a nut. I am just a little unsure of whether or not this would be strong enough. I don't think there will be a lot of normal stress, but when the engine is putting out a lot of torque there may be considerable sheer stress, and I would hate to overly weaken that flange on the block by removing material. Any thoughts, even if they are just to call me a moron, are appreciated. If you can drill it out and through bolt it without taking too much off the other side, I would just do that. Using an allen head cap screw on the block side will require a very small flat and still get the job done. The shear forces are really pretty small on that bolt if all the bell housing bolts are tqd properly. As long as the bolt has the right tensile strength and it's tight, it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two40zjunky Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 You might want to look into something called the timesert. I have been using them for a while now and prefer them over the Heli Coil method of repairing stripped threads. I have a 100% success rate of installation and it is crazy easy and fast to complete. http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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