Valve Cover Tightening Sequence

[10cjennings]

I've looked through my PC copy of the 280z FSM and can't seem to find what the correct Tightening sequence is for the L28 Valve Cover. I'm sure it's the standard corner to corner method, but I'm on my last gasket and I'd rather just verify and make sure I do it correctly.

 

 

Thanks,

Chris J.

[BRAAP]

Pattern for the valve cover is not critical. I use a speed handle and spin them all down to touching, no particular order or pattern, then I step up the tightness making several passes around them all as I increase the torque.

 

If using the Felpro valve cover gasket or some other rubberized/coated valve gasket, I use a thin film of oil on both sides, (usually just smear a thin film on the the head and valve cover surface), allows you to reuse the gasket for a few years of frequent valve cover removal.

[10cjennings]

Pattern for the valve cover is not critical. I use a speed handle and spin them all down to touching, no particular order or pattern, then I step up the tightness making several passes around them all as I increase the torque.

 

If using the Felpro valve cover gasket or some other rubberized/coated valve gasket, I use a thin film of oil on both sides, (usually just smear a thin film on the the head and valve cover surface), allows you to reuse the gasket for a few years of frequent valve cover removal.

 

I've been having nothing but trouble with the 2 Cork Gaskets I've got (They keep warping, breaking their seal and leaking oil). So I'm just gonna use a good bead Sealant instead, should do the trick.

[BRAAP]

I recommend not using Cork gaskets on any modern engine, (by modern I mean anything made since the 50's with machined gasket surfaces). They are fine for engines made in the 1920's when trying to seal an as cast surface and will be replaced frequently any way. For sealing machined surfaces, paper or rubberized gaskets are the way to go, in some instances, even a fine bead of silicone alone, no gasket is fine. Any of the other valve cover gaskets will work great, leak free, etc so long as they are not cork and be sure there is absolutely no residual gasket material left on the head or valve covers sealing surfaces. Even a small spec left behind will be prone to leaking oil down the side of the head.

If not using a gasket other than a bead of silicone alone for the L-series valve cover, be sure the valve cover will clear the spinning cam gear/chain as clearance here is already pretty close, especially on heads with cam tower shims.

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

[10cjennings]

I recommend not using Cork gaskets on any modern engine, (by modern I mean anything made since the 50's with machined gasket surfaces). They are fine for engines made in the 1920's when trying to seal an as cast surface and will be replaced frequently any way. For sealing machined surfaces, paper or rubberized gaskets are the way to go, in some instances, even a fine bead of silicone alone, no gasket is fine. Any of the other valve cover gaskets will work great, leak free, etc so long as they are not cork and be sure there is absolutely no residual gasket material left on the head or valve covers sealing surfaces. Even a small spec left behind will be prone to leaking oil down the side of the head.

If not using a gasket other than a bead of silicone alone for the L-series valve cover, be sure the valve cover will clear the spinning cam gear/chain as clearance here is already pretty close, especially on heads with cam tower shims.

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

 

Wow, that was ridiculously informative....Thanks!

[10cjennings]

I wouldn't have even thought of the Cam gear thing...It looks like it clears it fine, so I'm just gonna run a bead of Hi-Temp Silicone along the mating edges of the VC and the Block tommorrow, torque the bolts down to decently tight. Let the silicone sit for about an hour, then torque them down to 12 Ft/lbs.