ZROSSA Posted August 29, 2002 Share Posted August 29, 2002 I found this interesting, http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/vehicles/tcpracecar/modifications.html Obvoiusly a better body man then I, but it could be done. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KraZ4spd Posted August 31, 2002 Share Posted August 31, 2002 I like that very very much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 3, 2002 Share Posted September 3, 2002 I asked RacerX about doing this very thing. It obviously can be done, but the amount you can pull it out is limited and it ain't easy. I've welded on thin gauge metal almost exclusively when I was a welder and the warpage is a concern. Done right it could be beautiful, to much heat and it'll be so warped that you'll be wishing you had used glass. I'd give this a advanced metal workers five on a five scale. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 3, 2002 Share Posted September 3, 2002 Actually, Lone the hardest part of this job is the welding. If you were doing this I would think that welding with just 1/2" welds alternately from F to B would keep the warpage down. As previously stated, the width would be determined by how far out you could "Push" the sheetmetal. I think I might try this on my 360 Celica so I have some sheetmetal to cover the rear wheels. I really like this idea as it doesn't make the car look like it has flares. Kinda like the YZ 280Z kit that John Washington sells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 3, 2002 Share Posted September 3, 2002 I totally agree, its just the thickness of the datsun sheetmetal that concerns me. I know how to prevent warpage by spot stitching alternating areas and all that, but on 20 gauge if a guy gets on there and blows holes and has to fill them, or welds to big an area it'll warp. As you probably know all welding causes some degree of warpage, thin sheet will pull together and if not done carefully pull things out of kilter. I agree though thats the hardest part and why I mention it being a advanced technique. I'd try it on a minute on a old 50's chevy with 16 gauge, but 20-22 gauge gets pretty dicey. That said, guys have filled the rain gutters before, so its not impossible, just not for a beginner IMHO. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted September 3, 2002 Share Posted September 3, 2002 Well, it sounds simple. "Yeah, you see, you just cut it, push it out, then weld it!" I kinda like the way it turned out. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 I had a slightly different idea (that I may actually implement in my lifetime - maybe). I would cut the current "flare" off the fender. Then I would slice it apart leaving 2 crescents, one with the lip and the other with the curved section that blends with the fender. Then I would weld the crved section back on, but further up (higher off the ground), by an inch or two. Then, I would weld a 3 inch ribbon of metal to that - this is the actual flare extension, the whole reason for the operation: get more rubber space. Then, I would weld the lip part to that. It is way more welding. It'd be easier if there were a source of cheap <B>metal</b> flares. Like porsche 930 type flares - except I wouldn't really want flares that extreme. I might not even attempt to weld the entire seam either. Just spot it every inch or two, and then fill it in with lead. Of course, I say that having absolutely nil experience with hot lead/solder. I do have loads of experience blowing holes in this thin Datsun sheet. BTW, I think calling it 20ga is generous. I'd settle for 22ga. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big Phil Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 Why not buy a pair of front fenders from a local self service junk yard and give it a try? If it works, bolt them on. If it doesn't throw them away. I think I will Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jdllaugh Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 I know this is probably nuts, but I have been toying with the concept of metal bonding recently. I wonder if you could spread the fenders as they did, bond in a strip of metal on the bottom side of the cut to form a backing plate, then fill with JB Weld or Bondo and sand smooth. Not exactly a concours quality restoration, but you're talking about a pretty thin sheet of filler. Another possibility is to cut a suitable strip of metal, flange the edge and bond it in place with the surface of the strip at the same height as the body panel. Then you would only have to fill a seam. Here's a link to a supplier of Metal Bonding Products. The site includes How To guides. Trying to butt-weld sheet the thickness of the Z body scare the pants off me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Weld or bond it will all work if the metal co-operates. Like Lone pointed Datsun sheet metal is dicey and usually un-co-operative. A good patient welder with an excellant wire welder could do it which would exclude me (and I am an average welder).....Big Phil , let us know how it turns out, if I remeember right you got some good metal rearrangement on the rear end of your Z that inspired me at the least to do my convertible kit rear in all fiberglass. Fiberglass is so forgiving and cooperates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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