74.5 347Z

Ford Fans, I agree that there doesn't necessarily need to be a book, just some thorough post with good pictures. Some pictures of my build are on My CarDomain page There is a bit of info about my solution to the engine mount and steering shaft problems. Maybe this weekend I'll pull my engine mount out to replace the oil pan and if so, I'll take measurements in case anyone wants to copy it. My EFI harness came from: RJM Injection Tech and it was very good quality. The wires were color coded and labeled to match ford diagrams. That was in 2004 and I haven’t dealt with him since; however, his website seems to have many more products than before. For the drive shaft, it used a “swing joint†meaning that the cups were different sizes. Two were for the Mustang drive shaft and the other two fit the R200 Mark

Nope, but I did stop by on Sunday and aired up the tires and opened the rear hatch. The rear quarter panels are fiberglass.

Just wondering if anyone has seen this car and knows a little about it's history. What little I've heard is that it was brought to Japan from Canada. Some guys here had the intentions of putting a RB26/Lenco and racing it over here. But it has just been sitting like this for a few years. It is a full tube chassis, tubbed, 4-link, etc. No engine/trans, just a narrowed 9" and the inside has been torn out. I'm thinking about building it as a Pro-Street if the price is right. What do you think? Would it be worth it?

Just installed this last weekend. It is made in Hokkaido. The fit was pretty good except for the bumper, but not sure if that is because of those Black Dragon/Victoria British fenders that never seem to fit right. http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/

All, This has been talked about many times, but still the answer still eludes me. Actually have spent the last few weeks reading endless old post on this and trying to find a way to get low and high. So, my apologies if there was a thread that breaks it down that I've missed. I'm attempting to use the stock combo switch and EZ wiring harness but there is no intermittent relay. The following wires are coming straight from the motor, but which ones need what? Blue w/red stripe going to a small relay on the gear housing Blue w/white stripe that goes to a larger relay Yellow that goes to both large and small relays Black (that grounds to the casing) Black that goes into the windings of the motor Black that ALSO goes into the windings of the motor Someone please break this down and help an electrical idiot out. How do I get power to the motor and two speeds? The Datsun wiring diagram doesn't explain what happens in the intermittent relay and that is where I get lost. So how does the 12 vdc get to the motor? And which wires get a ground from the combo switch to make Low and High? Thanks, Mark

It might have been me who you are referring to. I tried modifing Al's mount, but it ended up in the scrap metal bin. I used his design and built my own. This is the best pic I have of my mount. There are a few more pics in that album. I used the GT-40 intake which I believe to be 1" to 1-1/2" taller than Josh's Cobra intake. There are also pics of the header modification that was necessary for clearance. And I had to use a remote oil filter. One last thing, Josh mentioned if you remove the hood latch you can move the motor further back. I don't "think" it is possible. My balancer sits about 1/2" above the rack and the front sump of my oil pan drops just behind the crossmember. What I am getting at is with the engine this low, you have to move it back until the oil pan can go behind the crossmember. With the engine that far back the top two bellhousing bolts are 1/2" or less to the firewall. If you use the original brake lines there will probably be interference, but I made all of my brake lines and just moved those two lines up about where the heater core bolts are and moved the proportion valve up and to the left side of the car. One last thing, the shifter location for the T-5 is perfect! Mark

Is that the same type bell housing that was used in the 94-95 cobras? It seems that I heard somewhere about a different bell housing during those years. I used a World Class T-5 (which happened to be in my '86 donor car) and the JTR crossmember, hardest part was making blocks that follow the contour of the floorpan. Where my trans mount bolts up, the floor is not even. Someone used the stock crossmember and bolted/welded new mounting points to the trans tunnel. I would have went that route if I hadn't already had my "blocks" welded up and drilled out. It was a good idea, hopefully someone else will remember who it was. Mark