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Leeroy

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About Leeroy

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/20/89

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    Fresno, CA
  1. Thanks for the link! I have the 280z paperback manual but it's all torn so this helps a lot. I will do some research and reading
  2. Thanks, I've done quite a bit of searching and looking through the xenon website but they don't have everything in there. I think I'm just going to rewrite everything back to the way it was(stock) and see how it works because I've been getting positive outcomes pouting wires back to where they originally were before I followed the swap guide.
  3. [quote name="Miles" Check your battery. The battery has 12.6 volts. I actually got it to crank. There's just no spark or fuel. Fuel pump relay doesn't click when turned to the on position and I don't hear the fuel pump priming. I still get that rapid clicking from that black relay near the steering column, which I don't know what it's for.
  4. Thanks for the photo helps a lot. Now I still don't know where that other one goes.
  5. It does thanks, but I don't know why I have 3 wires coming out. I thought that black wire with the ring connector goes there too but it grounds my starter.
  6. I was wondering if swapping the entire engine harness, body harness, EFI harness, etc from a '82-83 zxt into my 280z, will it run without any/minimal modifications and wiring? I already have the entire swap and harnesses in the 280z. Any help would be much appreciated
  7. Also, this relay is constantly clicking when I attach the battery cable. I'll have to do some more research on what it is and what it's for.
  8. Ok so I figured out why it was grounding. I had that black wire with the ring connector connected to the starter positive bolt. I removed it and I no longer ground the starter, but I have no idea where it goes. I also don't know where that yellow/red wire goes. Any help would be appreciated. Now the new issue is that I don't think I'm getting any power to the ecu. The green LED doesn't light up when on the on position. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking when turning the ignition switch to the on position. The starter also doesn't want to fully crank the engine. I can hear it engaging and trying to turn the flywheel but that's it. I will try to have the starter tested at the local parts shop tomorrow.
  9. Since the entire harness from the zxt is being used, why doesn't the car run with everything plugged in as it would have been in a factory zxt? inknow why there are fusible links. It can be replaced with maxi fuses. I may have a problem with the wiring but I'm not an idiot. But I appreciate the help
  10. Miles: Thanks. I've looked at schematic of each user but up just have to study them a little lore. I've labeled most of the wires before cutting them but I should triple check them again. That's true.but yes I have also read through other guides too.
  11. Yes I emailed him about 2 weeks ago but no response.
  12. This is the swap guide I used...I have the '82-'83 swap so I went by one of the other member's wiring on the second page of the write up. I don't understand how the fusible links work in the write up because the 2 wires that go to the starter just seem like it's a loop from the solenoid back to the solenoid. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/
  13. Miles: I understand that the entire car is ground that's why I am wondering why I'm getting 12 volts when touching the probe to the engine block and valve cover when it's suppose to be ground. So this is how I tested with the meter. I bolted the positive cable from positive battery cable to the stater solenoid. I left the negative cable unbolted because I will melt wires with it connected. I touched the black(-) probe to the negative terminal on the battery, and then touched the red positive(+) probe to the starter solonoid bolt and got 12 volts. I then touched the positive red probe to the engine block, transmission housing, and valve cover and got a reading of 12 volts. I didn't hook up a ground cable to the chassis so I got zero volts when I touched the positive red probe to the chassis. So I don't think I'm suppose to be getting 12 volts reading on the engine and transmission. I will try to take photos this weekend when I have a chance to work on the car. And yes the battery and ground cables are all the same size. Thanks for the photo. What would really help us a photo of how the starter wires are attached and how the fusible links are attached because I'm going by the '83zxt swap guide I found here on this site and they said I won't be using 3 of the larger wires going to/from the fusible links, and to cut them and tape them off.
  14. NewZed: Yeah I did a little research after that electrical issue and read that the alternator could be possibly grounded. So I disconnected everything on it to see if that was the issue but it wasn't. I noticed that my starter solenoid starts to rotate when I tighten down the bolt. Not sure if that may cause a short in the starter solenoid. The stock '76 electrical system is no longer in the car. It has the complete harness(efi harness, dash harness, etc.) from the '82-'83 zxt. The interior is stripped out. I will have to take photos of my wiring this weekend when I have a chance to work on the car in daylight so you guys can have a better idea of what I may be doing wrong
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