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luseboy last won the day on March 18 2014

luseboy had the most liked content!

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About luseboy

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    Can Charge Rent
  • Birthday 09/22/93

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    Bay Area, CA
  1. Hey, I had ordered a set of the D Brinkworth flares a few months back but the guy flaked out on me and I ended up having to get my money back from paypal. I'm now looking for a set of rear flares for my 240z. I'd like to try something different, and would also be interested in widebody quarters. Let me know if you have something interesting. Thanks, Austin
  2. I'm not sure if this is the right forum to post this in but seeing as how he makes the D-Brinkworth flares and other body parts this seemed the most pertinent. I'm curious as to whether or not anyone has dealt with buying from him before. I ordered and paid for a set of rear flares from him back in May. He told me 4-6 weeks before I would see the flares. After 6 weeks of no contact I messaged him (on instagram) to see what was up. I had to message him a few times, with my messages being read but not responded to before he messaged me back to say it would be another 4 weeks. Those 4 weeks have come and gone, and yet again I've gotten zero contact and zero explanation. I've been trying to get ahold of him for a week now unsuccessfully. Anyways I'm really feeling like I'm getting ripped off and it was no small amount of money I've paid him. If anyone knows him personally please understand this is not an attack nor an attempt to smear him, just curious if others have had similar experiences or not. I'm really apprehensive as to whether or not I will ever see the flares. I would love to hear anyone's experience, positive or negative. Thanks
  3. OK, so I did have my car set up as a G nose, and recently decided I don't want to run the G nose on my car anymore (which is for sale/trade now). I've decided to go short nose but there's a few parts I'd like to try and find used: -Headlight covers (smoked preferably) -Front spoiler/Spook (something similar to the BRE spook but I'm open minded) If anyone has any of that for sale I would certainly be interested. My car is ratty and I am more than open to any of the parts above being in ratty condition. Thanks! -Austin
  4. L28 not getting fuel.. not enough pressure?

    If you've gone this far you should drop the tank and clean it out as best you can. If the fuel pump is clogged then there's likely a fair amount of crap in the tank. When I dropped the tank on my Z there was about a 1/2" thick layer of rust and crap on the bottom. I chose to replace the tank with a fuel cell but in hindsight it would have been better in some ways to keep the stock tank. Maybe you already did this and I missed it but just in case.
  5. That's really interesting to me that this little clamp makes that much of a difference. Do you have poly rack bushings as well? I wonder if it matters as much with poly rack bushings already installed.
  6. Looking for some VQ insight

    Definitely sounds like a great way to do it! What are you running for a diff/axles? I'm sure that you're running more power than I ever would be able to safely do with the vq30, even with a turbo on it. Ah that could be very useful, I'm sure trying to get it tuned right on my own would be quite a learning curve.
  7. Ecoboost swap

    My question would be why? I'm not too familiar with the ecoboost engine but a quick couple searches, and I think the sr20det is a much better swap unless I'm missing something. The sr20det seems to be: cheaper, lighter, probably easier to swap since so many have done it, makes more power, and as far as I could find gets about the same mileage. There's also a plethora of aftermarket support, a 6spd transmission available from the s15, and many people import them. There is a bit of a premium on them since the drift kids drool all over them, but they still aren't that expensive. If you want a 2 liter 4 cylinder turbo engine the sr is hard to beat. There's a good possibility that I missed something about the ecoboost engine, and if that's the case I'd love to know what's attractive about this engine to you. Hopefully this doesn't come across as rude or anything like that, just my thoughts.
  8. Looking for some VQ insight

    That sounds too easy, and almost certainly my best bet. Did you send your ecu off or did you buy the engine that way already? I definitely don't want to spend days on end tuning and trying to get it running right.
  9. I'm not sure how relevant this is but when I replaced my steering rack bushings with poly I took this piece off and the rubber fell off. I figured the piece was there for a reason so I glued on a piece of poly I cut to the same approximate size and shape as the original rubber piece with JB weld. I've hardly driven the car yet as I'm only just able to drive it and still tackling a number of issues before I can really drive it but this may be a good option for others who lose their rubber piece.
  10. Looking for some VQ insight

    Interesting, sounds like there's a reason I'm not finding an easy solution for my rear end set up: there's a million options and considerations. I guess what's important for me is that I have something that will hold up, has a limited slip function of some sort (aggressive would be nice but anything is better than open), and something that isn't unobtainably expensive or lands me with a set up that is really expensive or nearly impossible to fix should something go wrong. I really appreciate your insight, I think I'm gonna need to give this whole thing a lot more thought and try and figure out what I want to do.
  11. Looking for some VQ insight

    Interesting, I went to Z fever's website (maybe a different Z fever?) where they have a page about swapping the VQ35de into a 240sx and they say they use a standalone system from AEM, and chuck the stock ecu. I just don't know if the VQ30de is different since it came in the '95-'99 maxima. I guess I was hoping someone would know about this.
  12. Looking for some VQ insight

    Interesting, I wonder if I should just go the STI route but make a larger capacity finned cover work. I mean I won't be racing or drifting and after doing a little more research, I'd be surprised if I do make 300 ft/lbs, probably more like 250 or 275. It would certainly be much easier, and I'd run it with the sti CV's with a shorter shaft like at least one member on here has done. But I do like the idea of having piece of mind with the R200. So I take it you used a vlsd pumpkin in your case? Are the 280zx adapters for the diff side or the companion flange side? I already have 280zx turbo companion flanges so if I can just use the axles out of a 280zx turbo that would be nice since I already have one piece of the puzzle. Although I believe these companion flanges are 25 spline whereas I have 280z 27 spline stub axles that have been re drilled (by modern motorsports when they were still around) to 5 lug, so I'd still have to get that figured out. I'm assuming if I can find a clsd it'd be really expensive? I also found a post on here about making a frankenstein axle out of a pathfinder front axle with some different ends on one side, can't quite remember the specifics. I'm not at all opposed to running a frankenstein axle as long as it doesn't cost a ton of money. Additionally, according to another post, the Kaaz 1.5- or 2- way pumpkin for converting an s13 to lsd from open will work with 280z r200 diff stub axles and halfshafts. I wouldn't mind running halfshafts for the time being and then upgrading to CV's later on down the road.
  13. Looking for some VQ insight

    It sounds like it can probably handle it but I would prefer something stronger. I'm now looking into putting an lsd pumpkin for a shortnose r200 into a longnose r200 case, looks like it is doable.
  14. Looking for some VQ insight

    I like the idea of the R200 but the longnose with an lsd is very expensive usually and the shortnose is a very involved swap in which I may as well go for an R230 (unless I'm missing something), which makes it expensive and difficult to install. Not that I'm not up to the challenge, but if there's an option that is almost bolt in that would handle the power I think it would end up much more solid. I'm not really looking to spend $4k on my rear diff, and if I fab up my own diff mount and such it'll still end up expensive and probably not as well made as it should be. The Sti diff is limited slip and is either viscuous or clutch type depending on year, it's the strongest R180 ever made as far as I know, I just don't know if that's gonna be enough for me. I know no one could say for sure if that's the case but I'm curious about an educated guess from those with experience. As far as the JDM VQ30det goes, I was briefly looking at them and they seem to sell for about what a complete vq35de out of a 350z or g35 sells for, which makes more power and what not. The VQ30de out of a maxima sells for like $350-$400, or what an L28 sold for a few years ago. I would still need a full oil pan, and ya I would need to figure out the intake. I can fab my own motor mounts (best friend is a certified TIG welder), so that makes this a pretty cheap swap for me, relatively speaking. Plus down the road I could make new mounts and put in a vq35de and already have the transmission and all that in place.
  15. So I started looking into engine swaps for my '73 240z. I have been leaning towards getting a front wheel drive vq30de and putting a 350z 6 speed behind it (using a 350z oil pan, clutch, flywheel, etc.). I know this won't make much power compared to a 350z vq35de but if I put a turbo on it down the road I'm sure it'll be more than enough power for me and it's a really cheap motor to pickup. I've been thinking I want to try to get megasquirt to work as I like the flexibility and ability to change virtually anything. It seems, though, that there aren't too many people running megasquirt with a vq of any type, is there any reason for this in particular? I know the vq35de is a very complicated motor electronically, but apparently the vq30de is much simpler. I suppose it would be a whole lot easier to get it running with stock electronics, so I may go this route but does anyone know if the ecu needs to be messed with before you can get it to run without all of the associated security parts like with a vq35 swap? Sorry if this is all over the place, I'm just trying to get some rough ideas as I have only been able to do some reading around online. I know a few people on here have done this swap and I have searched but I was hoping for a little clarification. Now my other questions revolve around the drivetrain aspect of the car. I suppose I should ask this in the drivetrain section but I wanted to get an idea of what people are running as far as rear ends are concerned with their vq swaps. I already have pretty upgraded stock suspension and have silvermine motors stage 4 rear brakes, so I'd like to retain as much of this as possible. I like the idea of putting an R180 out of an Sti in as I can retain my brakes, control arms, coilovers, wheel stub axles, etc. However, if I am running a vq30det or a vq35de, with possibly up to 300 ft/lbs of torque, am I likely to be breaking diffs or associated parts with the Sti R180, or has this been done? I'd like something reasonably solid, even though I'm not gonna have LS1 torque and I won't be drag racing or drifting. However, from time to time my left foot may slip off my clutch pedal while my right foot may accidentally be pushing down on the accelerator pedal, and I'd rather not blow up my diff when this accidentally happens... My plan currently is to get the Sti diff but use CV's, as at least one member on here has done. I already have 280zxt outer axle flanges so this wouldn't be too hard to do, but I'm just not sure if this will be solid enough for this engine. I'm just not sure if I should be planning to go for an R230 or Ford 8.8 or something. Hopefully this isn't too off in left field, I know it's much easier when there's more specific questions but if anyone has some general guidance for me on this that'd be awesome. Thanks!