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luseboy

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luseboy last won the day on March 18 2014

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About luseboy

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    Can Charge Rent
  • Birthday 09/22/1993

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    Bay Area, CA

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  1. Got it figured out. According to a guy who made custom flywheels for maxima 6 speed swaps (the same problem arises as in my case, but with a different flywheel than the 350z flywheel), this timing ring does not index the engine and instead indicates engine speed. In other words: it's indexing/clocking/position doesn't matter. All that matters is the sensor being positioned in a way that it can read the timing ring. Just in case someone else in the future runs across the same thing, and finds this thread.
  2. So I'm in the midst of doing a budget VQ swap, a '96 i30 VQ30de mated to a '06 CD009 and '06 350z oil pan. I'm starting to figure out the best option for transplanting the timing ring from the flex plate of the VQ30 to my ebay 350z flywheel. I'm planning on throwing the flywheel on a lathe to cut off the 350z timing ring, then line up the vq30 timing ring and either weld it on or drill and tap some holes to bolt it on. However, I'm wondering if anyone happens to know how this 180 tooth ring times the engine? I can't find any missing teeth or anything like that to indicate TDC to the sensor
  3. So obviously I wasn't satisfied with the drilled thermostat set up, and decided to make an external bypass. I was able to get 3/8 copper hardline locally by the foot ($5 a foot), as well as a tee that has two 5/8" hose barbs and one 3/8" hose barb. Unfortunately, I can only find the tee in plastic but I wanted to see if the lack of an external bypass was actually the issue so I went with that for now. I pulled my thermostat housing off and took the temperature sending unit out of the adapter. While it was out I used some boiling water and a digital thermostat to test my gauge and sending un
  4. I'm not sure that there's a way to calibrate the autometer gauges, but I'm looking into it. I did buy an autometer fuel gauge that was no good, so maybe this one isn't any good either. It seems to be reading the same temperature as the fan switch though, as the fan kicks on and off at the right points compared to the gauge. Of course this is no calibration by any means but at least an indication in that direction. I will look into that further. If I use aluminum I'll make sure and insulate it from the engine. The heater core is plumbed the same way as the factory
  5. Ok so I cut the little brass nipple valve off and drilled a 7/32" hole in the (cheaper) thermostat today to test out the bypass problem. When I pulled out the thermostat I looked at the coolant sender and realized that it's actually on 2 adapters: a 1/4 BSPT to 1/4 NPT, then a 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT adapter. I'm not sure what I was thinking, but there's definitely the potential that an air bubble is staying put within the adapter set up. At any rate, drilling out the thermostat seemed to help a lot in traffic, where it would creep up to 205-210 before it was drilled out, it now stays closer to
  6. Ah okay this seems like something work looking into for sure. I do not have any sort of bypass like that, or the su manifold so no water lines for it. I'll have to decide if I want to plumb a bypass in or drill the thermostat. I like the theoretical function of the bypass better but anything that adds to the possibility of coolant leaks (like more plumbing) is possibly worth avoiding. I'm guessing the little little hole that's already in the thermostat is not big enough? Also can you explain how the lack of bypass would make the engine run colder? Or are you saying it just makes the gauge
  7. What do you mean by bypasses? I'll attach a picture showing where the fan switch and gauge sender are tapped in. The fans are blowing in the right direction, the temperature controlled fan is a "puller" and the switched one is a "pusher", the idea being that in most conditions I'd want a puller fan but in traffic a pusher might help too. I've not tried running the switch fan with the engine cold, mostly because it already takes so long to warm up. I'm curious as to what your though process is here? I'll give it a shot. Here's a picture of how I have my thermostat h
  8. The first one was a brand new stant unit. The one I got today is a brand new motorad cheapie that I got in case I needed it. I tested both of them to get some comparison between them, they both seem to work properly in hot water. I'm thinking the creeping problem is probably a fan problem. Is there a known rule of thumb for an acceptable amount of creep in high heat situations like traffic in the summer? I'm not convinced that a different brand of thermostat will fix this at this point. I'm sure the Nissan thermostats are much better, but I would think these should function well enough
  9. Interesting, I didn't realize this was a problem. I had filled the block and head through the thermostat housing and topped off the radiator before running the engine and getting it up to temp. It very suddenly started gushing out of the top of the rad, presumably when the thermostat opened. I guess if nothing else it shows that coolant is flowing lol. Yeah I was just thinking that. I actually just drove around for a bit to see if I noticed anything else but didn't close off that valve. I think I drove it around with the valve closed off for a few days months ago but I don't remember
  10. Haha you replied while I was replying. It uses a temperature switch that was oem on some other car (A honda of some sort), located on a different point in the thermostat housing. It's odd huh? It's either too hot or too cold. Every once in awhile it will stick around 180 for a bit, but once I start moving above 30mph for more than 5 minutes it's back to 150-160. This makes sense, it seems that it isn't equilibrating properly for some reason. I have a universal hot rod heater from summit or jegs, it's a pretty large core and I just have a little manual shut off valve that I prett
  11. I think the sender is designed to be immersed in coolant, but I think with the adapter only the tip of the sender will be fully immersed. I was thinking maybe an air bubble is trapped in there, but I've heard of other people running the same setup with no problems and I don't have any other symptoms of a cooling system that needs to be bled really but I think this could be the case. Another possibility is that the adapter allows for some pocket of coolant around the sender that isn't moving even when the thermostat opens and is staying cooler, but that seems really far-fetched and the pocket
  12. Using an Autometer temperature gauge with the sender in the thermostat housing on the end of a BSPT to NPT adapter. I don't have an infrared thermometer to confirm the readings with but I should probably get one.
  13. Alright so I haven't been on here much lately because I've been busy sorting out all the little issues with my car after getting it on the road. It's been having a weird thing happen where it runs at 150 degrees even though it's got a 180 degree thermostat in it. It also seems to take awhile to warm up. Even still, if I'm sitting in traffic or whatever it will creep up to 205 or so and hold there. I suspected that the thermostat was stuck open, so today I replaced it and tested the old and new thermostats, both of which seemed to work fine although the old one didn't close back up till abo
  14. Hey, I had ordered a set of the D Brinkworth flares a few months back but the guy flaked out on me and I ended up having to get my money back from paypal. I'm now looking for a set of rear flares for my 240z. I'd like to try something different, and would also be interested in widebody quarters. Let me know if you have something interesting. Thanks, Austin
  15. I'm not sure if this is the right forum to post this in but seeing as how he makes the D-Brinkworth flares and other body parts this seemed the most pertinent. I'm curious as to whether or not anyone has dealt with buying from him before. I ordered and paid for a set of rear flares from him back in May. He told me 4-6 weeks before I would see the flares. After 6 weeks of no contact I messaged him (on instagram) to see what was up. I had to message him a few times, with my messages being read but not responded to before he messaged me back to say it would be another 4 weeks. Those 4 weeks
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