supertip

its coming...

I used the aircraft remover however my z has 5 or 6 coats of paint. I found that a heat gun and a scraper works well.

Well I am leaving for Annapolis for a 2 weeks in DC and the Academy on Saturday. My dad will be back from Afghanistan when I get back so hopefully I will post a video of it running. And 2eighTZ4me, your excuse for no turbo is nonsense, you just have to always being going so fast that the turbo is maxed out!

Oh, so like a big funnel. When I said two webers I meant DVG's, the car had dual weber DVG's. Please don't take offense to my comment, any information I can get is greatly appreciated!

Daeron, you said the webers are 40mm, but I only had two of them. Now I have 6 34mm carbs. What am I missing here? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand. Yeah I know a guy that runs a Kia club, ha a Kia club... but he puts on an event out here every year and dyno runs are only $20

Ok, they are 34mm, and yes it was a 3 cylinder bike, does it really matter that they came off a 2 stroke? But the cfm should be no problem. There is a forum about "6 carbs" that goes over the cfm requirements and these meet it. Can you post a picture of your manifold, I bought mine on ebay for $40. But also I thought that the webbed mani would provide more support.

blow through, the carbs have no vacuum nipples or anything... I am not 100% sure on the mechanics of the turbo, I plan on taking it to the shop where they do this regularly to get an idea of what to do

I have seen triple weber applications boosted, and I have a friend that works at Sand Toys in Tacoma, they boost bikes with carbs all the time. I don't know about the rubber hose, on the boosted bikes they still use the hose. Plus I only plan on running 7-8lbs of boost. If I have to I will weld aluminum runners in place. Oh, and if you look at the manifold the outer runners start to bend in, if I cut them down farther to make room for an air box, that will remove the bend and solve the kinking problem

Ok so my goals are to, clean the manifold, both the shavings and the cuts, straighten out the carbs, and filter them. Oh, and I am going to turbo them. What does everybody think about that?

The bike uses a cone style filter for each carb. The manifold needs to be cut back about 2" and each hose cut down the same. I haven't decided whether to use the stock filters, or put velocity stacks on them and stick them in a box with a large single filter. Also, nothing wrong with criticism, in fact that is why I posted pictures in progress, but it seems like everybody is put off by this idea. I mean this is HybridZ, is this some sort of taboo?

all of the carbs mount on a piece of angle aluminum that is bolted to the bottom of the intake. It will hold the carbs still and straight. However, that rubber hose is gas tank filler braided hose, it is very stiff. It was difficult to even bend them that far. Also the manifold goes 3" into the tube and almost 2" into each carb.

Ha, no. I just put it in place to take some quick pictures, i cut it off the car, just haven't cleaned it up yet.

This is my 260z with an L28 swap. The car originally had stock SU's, then I swapped Weber DVG's, now it has this... A stock webbed EFI manifold... At least it used to be The carbs are Mikuni's off of a 1979 Yamaha 750. They try to start but my distributor is not wired correctly, I read http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131362&highlight=260z+wiring but I still have no idea what plugs into the plug out of the 260z distributor, any help?

You should post a picture of the diagram you made, this is something I would like to do as well.

I am restoring my 260z, it has an L28 swap in it and my wiring is not cooperating with me. The shunt was not there when i got the car, all I have are four wires, two red/white wires and two white wires, one heavy gauge and one lighter gauge of each. At first I attempted to connect the heavier wires together, but when i connected the battery terminal they started smoking where they were connected. So I connected the wires to a generic shunt and nothing happens for about 30 seconds, then the shunt starts smoking. What is going on? Should I be able to connect the heavy wires together, and just bypass the ammeter? Does this mean I have a short?