72_240zTT

My mistake, the facebook page is 240z 260z 280z lovers

Another update since its been awhile. I havent had money to put into the Z lately, so i can fiddle with it here and there. The 1G is still running stronger than ever. I just ran into 1 hiccup. It will only start up now if i physically hold the afm open halfway. Once it fires up i can let the afm go and it will idle great. Anybody had any issues similar on their fi Z's? Otherwise, i used a z31 alternator instead of the zxt and once i fire her up, she runs all by herself with no piggyback car keeing the battery maintained. Im currently hunting for a way to 5 speed swap it since i dont want to waste the money on getting a driveshaft made for an auto since the 1G standard trans is about 2-3" longer. Otherwise, i did end up putting the bullbar on, and im actually pretty happy with it. I still need to mess with the mounting since one side sticks out a little farther. I finally have a working ebrake (still need normal brakes, but no longer need to chuck my wheels). If i stick with the auto tranny for now, i will hopefully have my Z on the road sometime next year. Ill toss up some more pics for your entertainment. Also, if anybody wants to see running videos head over to facebook. Look for Randy Stevens under "240 260 280z enthusiasts" i have a few videos of the Z running with the 1G.

Picked up the swap complete minus intercooler and alternator for $250. Z31 alternator and saab 9-3 intercooler works great. Runs like a champ and was a direct swap. (Minus driveshaft of course)

7 year bump, i dropped a 1g in my 240.

Just a quick update. I went to the scrapyard and picked up an intercooler off of a saab 93 that fits very well into the Z. So now that is mounted and ready to go. For the alternator, i am going to use my 280zxt alternator. To make that work, i had to shave 1/4" off of the 1G alternator bracket. I havent finished mounting it yet, but i need to make the "slider" so i can adjust the belt tension. I was hoping the 1G one would work, but it doesnt. It is no biggie. I am currently in the process of making my scoop, I am on my 2nd layer of fiberglass. It is shaped with the hood and isnt raised up too much, and the breathing hole is facing the windshield so it can let some heat escape from the bay. I would post pics, but i still dont know how to upload them so they arent flipped.. annnnnd, i may or may not be putting a bullbar on my Z aswell...More than likely I will, just because it is "different" and it honestly looks pretty badass mocked up. Then again, everything about this build is pretty different so it isnt much of a surprise. Oh, i also managed to smash my headlight bucket pulling the Z from my back yard to my front.. My lifeless Z rearended my tC. Idgaf about the tC, im more upset about the cost of a new headlight bucket.

Well, i got her started. I cant get it running until i get the intercooler, alt, etc. All of the other odds and ends. But she starts with no problem at all if i shoot in some starting fluid. Now ill have to put it on a hopefully short hold until i get caught up on bills so i can afford to pick up the misc parts. Im just happy i got it started today.

That would be great, unfortunately my car is still far from ready. Im going to try to get her running today to make sure the ecu powers on and produces spark, etc. But i still need to get a ton of other parts before i can get it on the road. I still need intercooler and piping, driveshaft, fuel pump and new lines, auto shifter(unless i can find a decent standard trans before i get a driveshaft made), alternator, and a ton of other odds and ends including alot of interior bits. If you have any spare parts that your looking to sell, let me know because i am in the market and i definately prefer buying locally. Regarding the tuning, i dont have much experience with it but if would like a hand with anything still, I am always open to learning(and learning more about the rb motors)

Oh, your from havelock? i live right in richlands. If you ever have some free time feel free to stop by sometime. If you have a project going on, i am happy to help with what i can as well.

Nevermind on my last post, i figured it out today. I was able to get it to crank. Now to get it to fire up i just need to finish running all of the wires to the ecu. Hopefully in the next week if i have some free time Ill be able to actually start it up. I cant keep it running until i get a rad, intercooler, and alternator but shes getting closer. Once i get her running, then i can figure out the shifter(its automatic and did not come with any shifter assembly).

Nevermind on my last post, i figured it out today. I was able to get it to crank. Now to get it to fire up i just need to finish running all of the wires to the ecu. Hopefully in the next week if i have some free time Ill be able to actually start it up. I cant keep it running until i get a rad, intercooler, and alternator but shes getting closer. Once i get her running, then i can figure out the shifter(its automatic and did not come with any shifter assembly).

Okay, i have another question. They are probably very simple questions, but it has been awhile since ive messed with the wiring on the Z in awhile. So the questions are: 1) Do i use the wiring from the Z chassis harness to power the 1ggte alternator? 2) Where should i hook up the battery on the Z harness? I dont remember where the + terminal wire went. I have a thick white wire coming from the Z harness under the battery harness. Is that used for the power, or is that ignition? I know they are stupid questions that i can find out if i tear apart the harness, but im trying to avoid ripping the loom apart.

I figured that would be the best method, now i just have to make time to make it up to a junkyard. Thanks dex

All right, i have finally got the motivation to start on the wiring. I found 1 diagram so far that i can try to use. Otherwise, i found a universal fuse box for a boat that i think i will use on the Z. With it being made for a boat, it should be better agains the elements as well. The only thing is that i need some relays as well. I was hoping to just find 1 aftermarket unit for a reasonable price that has the fuses and relays together, but the cheapest i found was $80 for 4 fuses/1 relay. So my choices are these: 1. http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5029-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-12-Circuits-and-Cover_p_1617.html?gclid=CIizgvm47ssCFUIfhgodw3YPSg or 2. Splice in a 5sfe fuse box or something similar. I know the 5sfe boxes are VERY readily available(celicas, mr2's, corrolla's, any toyota of the 90's) I may go with option 2, if it is in fact a good idea to repurpose a fuse box from another vehicle. I would love some opinions if anybody has some input? As always, thanks in advance guys. I cant wait to get this engine running.

The diagrams are hard to find since the engine was inly sold in japan....so i cant read japanese. The hood, i already tried putting it on, but the intake plenum sits up a lil too high. Honestly though, i dont mind putting a scoop there, it will be around the same spot as the z31 turbo scoop. If i couldnt source a fuse box, that was most likely what im going to do is a micro fuse box or something similar. Possibly maxi, but those fuses get very expensive very quick.

All right, now the transmission is finally mounted as well. It turns out that i didnt need any adapter plates anyways. I used the transmission mount off of my 4speed 240z transmission. All i had to do was unbolt the toyota trans mount, and put the Z trans mount in its place and it lined up perfectly. Next step is wiring, it will take me a little while to get that done, especially without having a fuse box. Im going to have to figure out what im going to do for that as well. But on the bright side, if anybody does attempt this conversion again. All you need is all of your OEM mounts from your s30 and it is a direct bolt in. If i didnt burn the rubber out of my mounts, then i would not have had to weld plates on there. *sigh*

Okay, this time i made sure to rotate the pictures before i uploaded them(even though they were fine on my PC)...But even since i rotated them, they are still coming out sideways. How do i fix this when i upload?

All right, I was finally able to get my motor mounted in today. The welds arent pretty at all, but they definitely get the job done well enough. Tomorrow I will hopefully be getting the transmission adapter plates made. Once that is done, then I begin with the wiring. Anyways, here are some more pics of the progress and the final engine placement. It is still a tiny bit too close to the front of the car, so i will have to put a small cowl or scoop in the hood, which i really dont mind. But Im just happy the engine is in, and that it really wasnt that difficult at all to mount. Drivers side motor mount Pass side mount Final engine placement

Yep, the pan clears fine and i got my welder back, so i will be working on all of the mounts tomorrow. I also got the pass side mount in. i went ahead and cut the oem mount from of the l24 block. So hopefully tomorrow, it will be mounted. Then i can work on the difficult part....wiring. haha. And fixing the pics would be amazing, i was going to do it tomorrow if i had some free time. Honestly, with how simple this swap is i can see it being done more frequently if all goes well. We'll see what happens once it starts driving amd gets dyno'd and some track time. It does feel good to do something nobody has done before. ...well, at least documented. haha

Also, from now on ill try to fix the pics being uploaded sideways. My pc is just too slow to take all the previous pics down, flip them, then reupload. Sorry for the head tilt. hahaha

Update: I shouldnt have burned the rubber out of the 240z motor mounts. I was thinking of doing the mounts a different way, but i can just use the OEM mounts from the motor AND the frame with very slight modification. Same goes for the transmission. So for now, i will just weld the OEM rubber mounts back together, at least for now until i get another set. But the fitment now, is almost perfect. It doesnt sit too far foward, and it doesnt sit on the firewall either. Everything is going pretty well at the moment, i just have to wait for my friend to bring my welder back, so unfortunately i think i am done for today. But with me just discovering that i can use all of the s30 mounts, this swap just got a whole lot easier. Worst case scenario, ill have to make a spacer for the motor mounts so they all sit flush, and also with the pass side mount, i will have to cut the motor mount on the block a little so it will clear the oem oil return from the turbos. Either that, or i can just convert it to rubber hose so i can move it out of the way and continue to keep the mounts original so it is more of a "bolt in" swap. Drivers side motor mount. I will have to weld the old plate back in since the rubber is now gone, but it should work with no problem. Pass side mount. I dont have the OEM mount bolted to the motor yet because the oil drain tube is in the way. I have 1 of 2 options. 1) Cut current motor mount from block so oil drain fits. or 2) Cut oil drain tube and replace with rubber oil return hose. I will most likely go with option 2 so it doesnt cause the motor mount to lose its structural integrity. Firewall clearance with motor pretty close to where it will sit permanantly. Nothing is currently in the way. The oil pan and steering rod are both 100% clear of the engine. Trans mount from underneath. Trans mount on drivers side. I will have to make an adapter plate and drill 3 holes. Bolt 1 to the OEM hole on the body, and the 2 other holes will bolt to the new trans mount. Same on both sides. This is almost exactly where the 1ggte will sit in the engine bay when the mounts are connected. And this is the hood sitting flush, so my previous concerns are gone. It will fit with nothing whatsoever in the way.

Yeah, it came with all the wiring and ecu. Im just not sure if it is actually supposed to have an engine fuse box or not. From alot of the pics and videos ive seen, i dont see a fusebox. And all of the wiring diagrams are in japanese. D:

If i can get the engine to sit back farther without getting in the way of the steering arm then my hood clearance problems will be solve, along with the oil pump. And the 1ggte has a rear sump on it, so im not sure if that would help. Thank you though, i appreciate it. (: Ill be getting back to working on it a bit tomorrow and will keep everyone posted on the progress. One other thing that i did think of, is the fuse box. The 1g didnt come with it, and im assuming that it should. So that will probably make the wiring a little more difficult as well. >_<

Did you swap a 1ggte into your Z? or something similar? I am very interested and could def use the help. For the cxracing mounts, what vehicle did you get them for?

Also, i was debating on cutting the pan but im just nervous that I still wont have the clearance. More than likely, ill just cut the hood and make some kind of cowl. I dont care about it looking stock, I definately prefer it standing out from the crowd(why else buy an s30 anyways.haha)

Im not sure if it is based from the 7M. Im assuming the mounts are the same because they did come from the same car.(just different countries) And im not sure if i am able to move the motor back, mainly because of the steering arm. I will have to look again and post a pic of it, but im not sire if i can. and thank you guys, i am definately excited to see how this turns out.