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Randalla

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Randalla last won the day on November 25 2013

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About Randalla

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/10/57

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    Phoenix, AZ
  1. Float-Sync

    FYI, I'm down to my last 2 sets for sale on eBay till more components arrive and I have time to produce additional products.
  2. Float-Sync

    The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step to be taken before making any other fine adjustments to optimize “runability” (other than valve adjustment). In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately as possible. I learned, like most of us, the way to set float levels is to remove the float bowl lid and measure the distance between the lid and the top of the float when the cover is inverted. What I have since learned is how imprecise this approach actually is (in terms of optimizing engine performance) because of so many variables. Some of those variables include whether the carbs are being run with or without float bowl gaskets, how many turns down the jet nozzles are set, if the float valve is fully opening and closing, if the float bowl lid has short or long ears and if floats are intact and their buoyancy is the same in each float bowl and I’m sure there are a number of others.
  3. Float-Sync

    I just posted 3 additional Float-Sync sets on eBay for those interested.
  4. Float-Sync

    Thanks for your interest madkaw. I sold all the units I had for sale during the first seven day auction. I'll be re-posting additional units in the next couple of days so please check back. I'll post the date here as soon as I have a chance to get them back up on eBay.
  5. Float-Sync

    Guess I may be a little, late but in good company nonetheless.
  6. Float-Sync

    Thanks for the feedback guys. I also rebuild SU's and have for years. I was looking for a simple way to make sure floats were set properly before sending the re-built carbs back out. These have worked great for me and for those locally who field tested them for me before I listed them for sale. Wow, I guess I didn't know the exchange rate between the Canadian and U.S. dollar was so far apart.
  7. Float-Sync

    Yes it is.
  8. Float-Sync

    I've been working on a new product for the last six months that I'd love to get some feedback on. I've always known getting the floats in SU's set properly, and knowing for sure they were set the same in both carbs was important, but the method of doing so always seemed imprecise and less than elegant. I developed Float-Sync to know precisely where floats were set and have a visual reference, without removing the float bowl lids. On three screw SU's, there's a threaded plug in the float bowl that can be easily removed to substitute Float-Sync. The level of fuel in the float bowl dictates the level of fuel in the jet nozzle. This is a big deal for SU carburetors because the fuel level in the jet nozzle directly impacts engine performance. When the engine is running, a vacuum is created in the SU carburetor venturi that pulls fuel out of the jet nozzle, mixing it with air and drawing it into the engine. If float levels are adjusted too high, fuel puddles at the top of the jet, allowing too much to be drawn into the engine, creating a rich condition. If the float is adjusted too low, it's harder to pull fuel out of the jet, creating a lean condition. A rich condition can cause plug fouling, poor fuel economy, gas fumes, diluted crankcase oil (contributing to blow by and reduced engine protection), and in extreme cases potential for an engine fire. A lean condition can cause the engine to stumble, back-fire, ping and run hotter than it should, creating the potential to burn valves. Float-Sync allows you to see precisely where your floats are. You can see the fuel level, with the engine running, throughout the entire RPM range… all without opening the float bowls. You will never wonder again if your floats are adjusted correctly. I'd be interested in your feedback and suggestions. I listed a few sets for sale on eBay last week to gauge interest. Thanks
  9. Choices, which head to use?

    Don't yet have the headers I will be using, but they will likely be jet hotted square port MSA headers.
  10. Choices, which head to use?

    A few years ago I bought an extra L28 engine that had just been completely rebuilt by Jasper, but never fired. The engine sat in storage with my cars for the last four years and I've finally decided to do something with it. The block is an F54, with dished pistons, and the head that came on it is a P79. This combination provides a very low compression engine. The engine will eventually be transplanted into my 72 240Z. My goals are to increase performance over my tired stock L24, be able to run on premium fuel without detonation and to have the engine run equally well (relatively speaking) with my stock SU's or 40mm tripple Webers. I'm not touching the bottom end of the motor at all at this point, so the options are with the top end (head choice and upgrades). I'm well aware that the dished pistons may not be ideal for power but I'm trying to do this on a budget, while keeping this car very driveable. The head will receive a mild cam (approximately 270 lift) and no matter what head I end up choosing, ports will be polished and the valves will be unshrouded. I have three heads, an E31, E88 and the P79 currently on the engine. With the dished pistons I know I need the E31 or E88 to up compression where I want to be, somewhere around 9.5 : 1. It seems the two heads each have pluses and minuses. The E31 has a smaller quench area, will provide slightly higher compression than the E88, but has small exhaust valves, which I'm assuming may be a detriment with the larger displacement L28. I've been told I can swap in L28 intake valves on this head but this would require cutting some of the combustion chamber away to accomodate them. This would also seem to compound the smaller exhaust valve issue. The E88 head, with larger quench area can more easily be refitted with L28 intake valves and already has larger exhaust valves stock. It will however produce a bit lower compression motor than with the E31 head. I've been told there are two versions of the E88 head (an emission version and a higher compression version) but don't know what I have or how to tell them apart. So, my question is what way would you go, and why, given my goals and pocketbook, Would appreciate any and all advice. Again, I'm not touching the bottom end, so please don't suggest replacing the pistons with flat tops. Thank you.
  11. Quality Chrome Plating- Special Sale

    One last reminder that Vintage Chrome's sale ends 1/31/15. We're still receiving orders, as recently as yesterday, but time is running out to get your parts to our Las Vegas depot by the cut off at the end of the month. Let Mike and I know how we can help. [email protected]
  12. While They Last

    Vintage Chrome is always looking for what fellow Z owners are interested in having plated, either your own parts or cores we might aquire, re-plate and offer for sale. If you're looking for something you have not been able to find, please let us know.
  13. "Better Than New" 240Z Chrome Taillight Trim

    Thought I'd mention that the taillight lens pictured is one I restored. A little work on your lens with a very mild abrasive (polishing compound) followed by some plastic polish and a good buffing, and you'll have a taillight that looks as good as your new chrome taillight bar. Those two improvements will transform the rear view or your Z.
  14. While They Last

    I probably should have also mentioned that we have a limited inventory of other freshly re-chromed parts for early Z-cars for sale as well. Let me know what you're looking for and I'll check our inventory and get back to you.
  15. "Better Than New" 240Z Chrome Taillight Trim

    Thanks for the pat on the back RB26.
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