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supernova_6969 last won the day on July 13 2020

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About supernova_6969

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  • Birthday 07/02/1979

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  1. Hey jdm junkie. I'm franciphone (from quebec). If you want, give me the person's email, i'll write to them and figure out the history. Send me a private message and we'll figure out the details. Sebastien
  2. @B50MX hey! thanks for sharing! seems like a mighty nice build, fun to drive too! simple, but to the point, and it works, which is more than my car can say. seems like you have a nice, evenly balanced setup.. 👍
  3. smoothz nice! I`ve really not ridden mine since I changed my shocks and I had problems with the steering, which i`m still working on (not often),. but whatever runs around the block I did, I also say a night and day change...
  4. hi tokuzumi. I live in quebec, canada, where we normally have a lot of rust., although it seems my car never saw much moisture.. I had no issues what so ever, so I wouldn`t worry too to much. The good thing about this set up is you can remove the shock and top plate by removing the 3 nuts that are on the shock tower.. this way, you have better access to the central nut, if I remember. Worst come to worse, if you're changing the shocks themselves (after 41 years, i`m guessing yes) and the top nut won't budge, you can always put a pair of vice grips on the shaft and use an impact or a long breaker bar on the nut. but only if you are changing the shocks, as that would mar the finish on the shaft and break the seal on the shock. good luck, and let us know. seb
  5. what manual or instruction set did you use to hook everything up? was there any mention of that problem? I seem to recall some forum or another talking about this type of issue, but that was a few years ago; I don't remember where... or how much details there was.. and when you mention the factory wiring, I imagine you mean all those wires that are connected to the cold that lead back to the tach (I think that's how it's set up, I didn't do the MS installation on my car so I'm not sure how it works). I know my car still has some of the old wiring attached to some of the posts on the coil.. probably exactly for that...
  6. hahaha. yeah, my wife agreed once or twice, but the second I didn`t drive like an old man going to sunday church, she was not happy. I guess we`re (read she) is not young and dumb anynmore and should act accordingly. nice control arms!!! not too epensive, I suppose... although they are such a simple part, I think i'd make my own. especially with the model you shown, that split shaft in which you insert the plate to weld (the transition between shaft and plate) is a very good idea on how to make certain i't`s very solidly joined... good inspiration...
  7. hey! I don't know about the price, but have you calculated the volume/size you need? I have a similar sized intercooler (both entry and exit on the driver side though). it came with the car, don't know if it's a good one or what, but I always wondered if it's not a little big... Too big of an intercooler would introduce a little bit more turbo lag (well it's not turbo lag, but the effect is the same)... unfortunately, that's about as much as I know. I can't help with calculating what is needed. hopefully someone who's installed a few intercoolers can chime in... seb
  8. hey S1300TTop. look at that, you posted on both my topics.. thanks! I debated buying a kit too, but I think changing the bushings on mine is going to be more an attrition battle than winning the war all at once. my missus has a love-hate relationship to my car... one that has no love in it, so I have to stretch out the purchases.. let me know how the kit does for you. WHATEVER YOU DO though, don't replace both sides of the tension rod bushings with poly bushings. you can find it in a lot of posts, both side poly bushing ends up being too stiff and people break their tension rods. The standard recommendation is either go stock with both rubber bushings per side or one rubber, one poly per side (that is on each side of the car, not right side poly left side rubber...) if you go this route, the kit that I mention is supposed to be rubber, and they come with 2 bushings (the equivalent of one side) so you can buy one kit only at your fave autoparts, and take one bushing for each side...
  9. got a link for the Vogtlands? are you getting them and putting them on the car in secret, and only posting the photos when you get permission? seb
  10. hey New Zed. thanks for this. the link you sent in your second post is perfect. not only does it confirm that the parts at Rock auto are what I'm looking for, but it give some info on installing it.... Captain Obvious actually gives out a part number, which is the same part number that Rock Auto gives for those "Strut Rod Bushing". I've looked at photos that are posted and they are DEFINITELY what is needed for the tension rods. Thanks New Zed. impressive memory, by the way. Also. the AC delco kit no 45G25036 has pictures of just the rubber, while Capt. Obv. stated it came with nuts and washers and all you need when he bought in in 2012 (it seems it's the same part umber for older and newer Z cars). let's hope it still does. I'll try to post an update when I get then and put them on the car.. photos and stuff maybe. seb
  11. hey guys i'm on the market for new tension rod bushing (rubber, ideally), and one of the only place where I found any were these ones.... https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20m02b/23-4322 when I look at them, they look suspiciously like these "Strut Rod Bushing": https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209406,suspension,strut+rod+bushing,7608 some of these kits even come complete with the metal sleeve that would fit nowhere on the strut rod, but would totally fit on the tension rod, I think... can anyone confirm my suspicions, that these are the same part, but misnamed in a few places, or that they are the same for both locations? thanks! seb EDIT: you should read this, it`s a short topic, but in essence, the bushings that were suggested to me are a great fit, cheap, and come with the bushing, the metal sleeve and the 2 buig and 2 small washers. great value. Here is ac delco product number, and a link to where I bought then (not affiliate, same link as above). AC delco kit no 45G25036 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209406,suspension,strut+rod+bushing,7608 they got the name wrong, but it`ll fit on most of the older z cars. very neat kit. by the way, anyone not 100% certain about fdoing this should look at this page. great site, great photos,. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html thanks for everyone who joined in.
  12. hey guys. I have the email of a guy who had a small scrapyard with only early zcars, he's got 5-6 bodies in various shapes, but a large.. shed? the side of a 2 spot garage full of parts, engines, manifolds, trannies, mirrors, etc. Dunno what else he has, but I can hook anyone up with his email if you pm me. I'm not comfortable sharing his email here, out in public... it is in the Montreal, Quebec Region, so shipping will be required for most people. seb. oh! I also have one. it's 5500$ and comes with the rest of the car attached to it. BAT.....
  13. I did the rear brakes when I go the car - normal job. If you have to get the calipers rebuild, make certain you go somewhere where they know what they are doing cause there are a couple or tricky steps to putting them back together. I advise against doing it oneself if you don't have a lot of experience. Then I did the fronts last year. what a shitty design.. you have to remove everything, including the bearings and everything to change the disk. It went well enough and repacking is no biggie, except I had very slight grit the first time (while testing the bearing in my hand, on the car you can't tell), so I did it again. Slight grit again, so I said **** that shit and called it a day. So far, so good, with about 3-4k kms on them. Still, what a weird way to do it. oh! By the way, if you have the time, buy yourself some new bump stops. The little round rubbers a the top of the shocks were pretty good on mine but the bump stops were either rotten and broken or completely missing on mine. Also, consider buying new covers/bellows/boots if your shocks don't come with them. When pull the shocks apart and notice that there are more cracks in them than a 1990s Detroit city park at midnight, it's too late.
  14. SO..... I finished the job last night, and took her out today. What a change. It's no F1 or lowered monster, but it doesn't squat like it used to when I start off (it went from what felt like 2-3 inches to .5-1), won't dip when I brake, even hard (from what felt like 3-4 inches to maybe 1) and won't lean very much anymore as I turn. BUT most importantly, it'll now stick to the road. In the last few months, driving it felt like it was floating on the road, and not like a Bentley might cruise gently, but more like walking on a grate, where you foot is flat, but nor making contact everywhere. That's what it felt like anyways, and it wasn't reassuring. Now, it feels like any other newer car, and follows the road and sticks to it, mostly. It's very satisfying. I can't compare to the stock shocks (new), but the KYB are very satisfactory. Probably a little but harder/harsher than stock but not too much, and if you have a car like this you won't mind a little extra "sportiness". Very curious what it'd feel like with new springs though.... So my final though : shocks alone are definitely worth it if you don't want to spring for a new set of springs (yeah, lame pun, but it was originally unintended). (Also, I just edited another post up here where I suggest anyone doing the shock (or shock/spring) job should buy all new boots and bumper stops from the get go, without even consider not buying any. )
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