Zraced...

To bad no one make a pure copper gasket. I will pull my manifold soon enough and see if it is true. I have a feeling it is warped. At least the motor is running well, but I am loosing my exhaust to the turbo and that ticking noise is bothering me.

I am going to try to fix my turbo exhaust manifold and it is leaking around the number 5 or 6 port. Should I have the manifold machined flat? Should I use a sealant and what sealant can take the heat?

OK I have the dyno sheet infront of me and here are the specs. 15psi 363.1 HP @ about 5100 RPM 400+ Ft lb torque at 4000 RPM slipping Not too shabby I plan to return soon once I fix my exhaust manifold leak.

Very nice numbers was the bottom balanced?

I'll have to check as my stock tach doesn't work with the new computer. I would estimate full boost is around 3000-4000 rpm next time I drive i'll pay attention. The GT35R isn't efficient for power until 10psi then hang on lol. The paint is black with pearl purple in it. only in the sun does it look purple. It is similar to the Honda nighthawk blue color. Just found out tonight my theromstat was toast...maybe that explains my temp problems. I will run it tomorrow.

Computer is a Microtec and I had to use "WOT" Wide open throttle for the high rpm fuel maps. Usually you can use matrix mode, which maps out each 1000 rpm setting for more precision. The only problem I have now is it is running too hot maybe a lower temp thermostat and some duct work to the radiator from the airdam. here are some pics http://www.evo-imports.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=29&g2_itemId=15319 http://www.evo-imports.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=29&g2_itemId=15322

OK here is the run down on the motor. 555 cc injectors 89mm forged pistons pauter rods bigger cam N42 head rebuilt stock Sard fuel reg. walboro fuel pump 3" exhaust no cat straight pipe through a borla xr1 race muffler -probably the biggest help on flow but a bit loud waste gate 38mm to atmosphere -again very fun at boost and the cops never no it:) fidanza flywheel Thats all i can remember I think the only better stronger clutch is by exeddy which = $$$$ then I can get 400hp to the wheels and be streetable.

Dynoed my Z and here are the results: 363 whp @ 15psi boost not to shabby:) (4th gear pull) ACT 512 ft/lb clutch was slipping on dyno maybe it got glazed.

I agree why would they use leftover parts for Europe? Is the USA far superior that we would get the good parts? Thats dumb logic.

Hmmm did you try it without the air filter connected and see if there is improvement? Is the AFM new or rebuilt? After running a while do your plugs look OK?

Ok Here is what Eiji at Datsun Spirit wrote. Just hitting 400HP on a dyno shouldn't be hard at all for a turbo setup. Natural Aspirated 3.1liter L-engine is approaching that number nowadays. >I was told lower compression is better for Turbos and if I go higher I >would use less boost. That's correct. For turbo (boost), you want lower compression. For Natural Aspirated engine, you want high compression. Weather turbo or natural aspirated, camshaft profile and the cylinder head work is the single most important thing to consider in building an engine. We can build crem de la crem, best in the world turbo or natural aspirated head, if you are interested. As for bottom end parts, I suppose you are seeking advice on the bottom end setup? For just 400hp setup, 3.0liter (w/ L28 crank & 89mm pistons) with our head and our recommended camshaft, coupled with appropriate carburation/injection and manifold & header should achieve that easily. You want the top of the piston to be at par or slightly below the block deck, (but not too much below the deck) and little adjustments can be done with the metal gasket thickness (we can supply in 0.2mm increment). As for pistons, shorter pin-height pistons is the way to go, my suggestion is 29mm pin-height (38.1mm for stock pistons). Many people use dished pistons for turbo setup, some use flat top pistons. Flat top pistons have much better combustion efficiency than dish or dorm. 207.90 (block height) - L28 crank (39.5) + pistons (29mm) = 139.4mm. We can supply 139.5mm chromoley rods or 138mm chromoley rods. Or if you use 32mm height pistons instead, you can use 136.7mm rods (and offset them if needed), or use LD28 (41.5mm) + 136.7mm rods + 29m height pistons (0.7mm below deck), etc etc etc. There are many many combinations we can do. Having said all that, are you all fixated on a turbo engine? Natural Aspirated L engine is very much fun, and N/A 320+hp engine is just as fast, if not faster in 1/4mi than a 400hp turbo L-engine. Eiji-

You can buy stock Aluminum pipe, measure and cut what you need and either have it welded, or use turbo flexpipe to connect it. Then powder coat it later for looks.

Does anyone have the specs on the pistons with this rod setup? Also I'm guessing the 2mm headgasket would be best?

I'm not a machinist, but was wondering what piston size my L28 F54 would need to be to make it a 3L. I want to buy the pistons from ITM and give them to the machinst. My guess would be 89mm. This is a turbo setup as well. I think I will stick to the stock rods unless there is a better choice. Do they make forged rods? My setup is very adaptable as I can change the engine parameters with my Microtech ECU.

Hmmm so you are getting fire to the spark plugs, but no ignition. I would look at the AFM (air flow meter) the box on your air intake before the intake manifold. I had mine go sour on me and it would take me 20min to get mine started. Also check your basic like distributor cap and plug wires and timing.