joeygoz1

Any ideas as to why my fuel gauge is not working? I have the carbon fiber autometer gauge part# 105-4815 fits pre Ford 1989 specs are 73-10 ohms. I've been told through other sources that this is the gauge to use for a 240Z. It is hooked up to the factory sending unit wiring. I have a brand new sending unit in the fuel tank. Prior to replacing the factory fuel gauge it work just fine, I just wanted to upgrade the gauge to match my other gauges. Not sure if I need to add a resistor of some kind. Are there other wires other than the two that came off the original gauge that I need to be aware of? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe

I also forgot to mention in addition to the Carter electric fuel pump, ignition, blinkers and heater fan blower not working. I also found a wire coming from what I think is the voltage regulator located on the passenger side fender accross from the altinator, was fried clean off. I replaced the wire with a fuseable link and still the same problem continues with the above item not working. Also to add to this before all went south with headlights and parking lights ON, engine running and with the blinker ON left or right flashing, the tach needle would drop a few houndred rpm's. Help Joe

Please let me know what the fix was for Cutless372. I think I'm experiencing a simlar problem with my 73 240Z. Ignition, blinkers, heater fan blower and electrical fuel pump will not work. But my headlights, parking lights, horn and internal dash lights work. Could this be related to a fuseable link or voltage regulator problem and if so where would they be located? Thanks anyhelp would be greatly appreciated. Joe

Hello KKittels I'm also experiencing the same problem with my 73 240Z. I ordered a left side half shaft in order to switch out the center shaft over to the right side that way I keep the same spline that would clip into the diff . Do I need a special tool in order to reclamp the boots back on and if so what is it called? Did you also flip the cages on both sides aswell?

Hello I'm also experiencing the same problem with my 73 240Z. I have an open R-200 with the 300zxt half shaft,and flipped the bearing cage and noticed a binding noise when I test drove it around the block. I removed the half-shafts and noticed on both driver and passenger side grease caps was an indentation where the shaft from the bearing cage was rubbing on the grease cap. I'm assuming that it may have to do with both half shaft being to long or just the one passenger side putting to much pressure on everything. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Joe

Yes I'm also expericing simlar problems with my setup, I have an open R-200 diff. After I drove my Z and noticed that some kind of binding I figured that maybe the diff was going bad, but after I removed the CV- half shaft and looked into where the spline part of the shaft slides into the diff I could see some kind of rubbing on this metal block that is sandwiched between the two splines and between the spider gears, sorry for my lack of proper wording of parts. My guess is that maybe I have to look for a shorter shaft for the passengers side half shaft? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes indeed a grin from ear to ear couldn't be happier. Thanks for the help Mike.

Okay thanks for the replies. I do apologize for the the multiple posting, was experiecing server problem with uploading the pictures and for some reason or another was able to post the pics via this catagory, which turned out to be the third try. I'm new to this forum so please work with me and I will remove the other related threads just having a little difficulty doing so, some direction would be greatly appreciated. As for the bias valve located on the firewall will be removed and lines will be tied in properly and will work on the safty pressure warning switch will most likely remove that too. Thanks again.

I recently converted my OEM solid disk front rotor and rear drum brakes to 03 Ford Cobra brakes, 13" fronts and 11.5 " rear, with a proportion valve in the cab. Also I gutted both OEM bias proporting valves to make as a pass through one located on the firewall and another located near the driverside rail near the shock tower. I've noticed on later z's that only one bias valve were installed from the factory compared to what I have on my z. In anycase I'm expericing a bad spungy brake pedal and have to pump the brakes in order to build pressure. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.