fufu

That would kinda make sense then. Everything works without that common fuse. What kinda silly design is that. It has no relevant purpose except for resistance fall back in the other circuit. But yes I've removed that circuit for the common fuse. Everything still runs fine. I'm having grounding issues with the light switch but thats an issue i'll resolve when i whack in the dash and everything back together.

Hi guys, Thought i'd post you my findings. Common fuse is a pain in the arse. It runs all around your car like a highway where everything else will connect to it and branch off. Anyhow i had an auto-electrician look at it. He pretty much removed the blue ->black cable from the back of the fusebox and the car starts and runs fine without the common fuse circuit. I've now hit another snag and that is... when my headlights are turned on, my dash doesn't light up and neither does my rear brake lights. If it is related to the common fuse i'm gonna have to rip open the harness and find the burn. Currently doing a search in hybridz, from what it says its been covered before.

The wires going to that fuse is the big white/red and a blue cable - however the blue cable(about 5cm) has a disconnect point(plug/socket) and then turns into a black cable. This black cable then runs all the way to the engine bay i believe.

Hi gwnwar, i have sanded both points and made sure the bolts on both were as tight as i can turn them. They look very similar to the picture in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130411&highlight=solenoid+picture However I've got my positive cable with the L shaped bracket and its pointing away from the starter. Is it possible for the starter to get rusted internally and short from the inside? This must be a silly question but... I've yet to test the polarity of the battery. There are clear signs depicting negative and positive, however is it possible for a manufacturer to put the wrong signs on a battery? I'll use a multimeter tonight.

I've got a RHD 240z. The battery has the fusible link on the positive terminal and the negative terminal has, 2 cables, the negative cable going to the starter and the ground cable hooked up to the firewall. Is this correct?

Cheers, to all of you for helping me out and giving me support through this dark hour. To AK-Z, the zed is completely stock. I've even disconnected that rear cabin harness(lights and fuel sensor - car still runs the mechanical fuel pump) and tested it and it still pops the fuse. The only thing i haven't tried is... disconnecting all the gauges. I'm fairly sure my new 260z volt/fuel is good and my new 260z temp/pressure gauge is good as well as I've only just installed it after the problem started - assumed it would fix the problem. The only 2 gauges i have not touched are the rev and the clock.. which also uses ground. I will also disconnect all the bulbs. My last hope is the starter as I've read in other posts its like another battery terminal and if that shorted that would lead to the same outcome? I've done heaps of searches and a lot of reading through past posts but nothing remotely even comes close to this problem.

Ok, i'm back from a good 4 hour session with mucking around with the electronics. I'm gonna take a stab and say its a ground issue now. I tried disconnecting all sub-harneses and i even took out all the fuses except the main "common" fuse and it still popped when i connected the battery up. I even disconnected all the sub harnesses and left the big red, white/red and black wire running from the engine bay into the cabin wiring harness... still pops that fuse. Fairly sure I've got the battery connected the right way. With the 2 large black cables going to the negative and a fusible link to the positive. Fusible link still works, did a beep test. I pulled out the cables to the alternator and it still pops that common fuse. Pulled out the harness from the volt regulator, still pops fuses. I'm gonna have to cut up the harness wrapping and see if theres any cables that have burnt. It's definately got something to do with the main power grid and/or grounding. But the weird thing was I've sanded down all the ground points and surfaces. Weird problem. I'm at my wits end. I mean the cars only been there for like 8 months and they didn't touch any of the wiring. So problematic this Zed.

The problem i'm facing won't even let me start the car. The moment i attach the battery leads to the battery... flash of light in the cabin and i know the fuse is blown. So it hasn't gone anywhere in a while. Once that fuse has gone, nothing works. No power what so ever to any part of the car. The only thing that I've found that works once the fuse has popped is the engine bay light. I've got the isolated W/R wire hooked up to (A) on the alternator and the black wire on (E) on the alternator. Nothings been touched since i dropped it off at the panel beaters about 8 months ago. I'm gonna disconnect the whole alternator and see if the car still pops fuse upon connecting the battery terminal. It could be the alternator hasn't had a good workout and has built up rust making it short? I'll know shortly. Cheers for the heads up Gwnwar.

Utter failure today. Still popping fuses. However i think its my old rusty alternator thats the culprit. Would a short in the alternator cause the "Common" 20A fuse to blow? Does anyone know how i can test it? The auto-electrician guy said... i should try turning the car on without having the white/red cable plugged into the back of the alternator. So i'm thinking about giving that a go tomorrow. Upon closer inspection, the alternator has seen better days. A alternator point was really corroded upon further inspection, hidden away by the protector cap. On the other hand i did do the volt/fuel gauge conversion... i don't know if it works yet... its pretty much a straight swap using the existing harness. I also did the temp/pressure gauge, exact same process, using the same existing harness. Tomorrow i'll test the alternator and also install a later model clock, see if its a straight swap like the other two gauges. *EDIT* some more information about the problem i'm facing... When i unplug the... big white/red cable it still pops. However if i unplug the corresponding "common fuse" opposite cable to that of the white/red which is the black cable... it doesn't pop the fuse, upon i connect the battery. This black cable runs out towards the engine bay... as I've tried disconnecting it at where the inner dash harness meets the engine harness. Once again this... doesn't pop the fuse. Following this black cable(really thick/big) out to the engine bay leads me to many places.

Just had a PM stating that its the amp meter. I'll check it out and return with my results soon.

"Common" Fuse keeps blowing upon connecting the battery terminals Hi guys, Everytime i connect the battery up to the car, the common fuse blows. Could anyone tell me what items are connected to this circuit? I've checked all my points and plugs and the harness doesn't seem to be shorting anywhere. At first i thought it was my alternator or my starter but after cleaning it up, i haven't got much of a clue now. *edit* Some information about my car: It is a 1971 Datsun 240z, the fusebox is located behind the ash tray in the centre console. Your guidance is much needed. Regards, Fu

Hi Jerryb, more details can be found at this web address: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2915.0.html AutoCad Pics on page 2 on that thread. Physical Prototype pics can be found here: As you may guess the cost is a bit expensive at the moment because... in Australia we don't have that many companies that do CNC work as compared with where most of you guys live. We had another group buy organised for AZC package a while back but due to not being able to use existing hand brake, it didn't fall through. But this will be an answer to a lot of us whom wish to upgrade to wilwoods however keeping the mechanical handbrake design.

Hi guys, thanks for the help. I managed to order a used set from US. Costed an arm and a leg but its the quickest solution since the 280zx calipers won't link up to that bracket. I guess i'll have to offload this kit to my friend later when i want to upgrade to willwoods. Sadly AZC doesn't do the handbrake type rear conversion. But however an aussie has done it and his now finalising it to start selling it. It uses the spot caliper for the handbrake and doesn't intermingle with the main rear caliper.

Hi, i've done a search and nothing seems to answer my dilemma in which I'm facing. I bought a rear disc conversion kit off eBay from the user "Tinmonk" however... he provides very... inadequate post-sale service as i lost one of the brake guide clips and being in Australia, Nissan doesn't hold any parts for maxima prior to the 90's. Constantly emailing him the last 2 weeks with only 1 reply, then silence from him yet again. The kit includes 280zx rotors, 85-86 Maxima calipers and mounting bracket. It's a direct bolt on. Is it possible to change the caliper with a more common caliper found in Australia such as a 280zx or a 200sx, using that existing bracket? as just a bolt in? or does modifications need to be done? The bracket can be found here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-rear-disc-conversion-brackets_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42614QQihZ007QQitemZ170258185312QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW The kit that i bought can be found here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-rear-disc-conversion-brackets_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42614QQihZ007QQitemZ170258185312QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Am i out of luck?