macs_5

My 82 did this same thing, N/A model 5 speed with manual ac. what I found after several weeks of hot summer trouble shooting was that the relay mounted below the fan in front of the glove box, had overheated and the terminals were spread. I thought at first that it was the amplifier also, but tested it out and found it okay. In any case, check the connectors and pins for evidence of overheat and repair according to need. Hope this helps. It really is kind of an insidious problem, intermittent shorts are always fun. I won't even mention my fuel injector troubleshooting and final repair after numerous rounds of trouble shooting everything at least 3 times. regards, mac

Some guys and I were talking and we started brainstorming the use of an a/c evaporator ducted to the throttle body on a turbo setup. Seems that some university tried this with diesel engines on big trucks and buses a few years ago. No real data, just happen to run across the report online. In any case, what would some of the mechanicaly inclined folks think about this approach to cooling the turbo output to the throttle body on a basicly stock 280zxt with MAF and JWR upgraded 450 EFI system and using a turbonetics GTK350 turbo? Seems like it would be simple to blow air through the evap coil and into the t/b? Like to hear the complicated downside or possible upside to this idea? regards mac

Hmm, good answers and makes me realize a little more info is probably needed. The car I bought is equiped with JWT system, the drive train was removed by po to do a sbc upgrade. Found out how difficult it was threw in towel. I get a kit car and while rewiring diked wire harness assemblies discover the "additional mods done to the car". Two folks I bought car from said their kid had a nice running car and then one weekend took it all apart. Left himself afoot. So since I have all parts except the turbo and the distributor, I figure to save some time and put it back together. Thanks, Mac

Okay, so I have a question about the various companies marketing turbos at various on-line sellers and ebay of course. I am looking at a GT25 Ballbearing and T3/4E types with water/oil cooling to replace a factory t3. What kind of luck have people had with the various economy units being sold? (looking at 250-300hp, using JWT z31 450hp upgrade, 46lb injectors, I/C and 3 inch exhaust on an 83 Turbo ZX with 5 speed). I would love to buy a real live Garret, but a thousand dollars +, is a bit steep. This will basicly be a street car with potential for a fast daily commute. CX Racing seems to have some pretty good stuff available and right now seems to be my main focus, but have noticed other brands being offered at some pretty unbelieveable low prices. (read: chinese made kirby vacuum blower with electric motor for less parasitic drag)? Thanks for the advice. regards, Mac

Hi Warren, took alook at your build page. had a couple questions about your car, which is beautiful I might add. Regarding the Ford injectors, what spec and part number and how do they respond with your mods? Also, any chance of getting look at under the hood of your car? I have an 83 turbo car that has an empty engine compartment at the moment and I have been entertaining some ideas and really would like to see driving projects, rather than in work machines. (all interesting, you understand, but the drivers are the ones that I can measure success of mods against my own plans). The car that I acquired had JTW basic mod done, then PO stripped engine compartment for v8 mod, did not get far. I bought it and found that he forgot to pull the ECU and wiring for the JWT system, so0000, since engine is out anyway, I think I will make a few adjustments to its design parameters, adding parts and pulling others. My background includes a couple of 82 280zx n/a for a few years. So its kind of an upgrade thing for me. Thanks for your input and I still am going to replace all the locks, found 200sx lockset new, that I can swap cylinders with and get matching keys and cylinders. Have a good weekend. regards, mac

ok and thanks for replys. Also have an assortment of keys for 280zx since I have had a couple. Unfortunately, the lock cylinders do not appear to have the usual wear that allows various objects to unlock doors. (go figure) So I am guessing that locks probably are not original to car and probably a collection put in by PO. Headed to locksmith next week with ignition lock in hand, at least will be able start engine and just maybe I will get lucky and find the key actually fits the doors, hatch and gas cap. regards mac

Hi Warren, Thanks for your reply, I have been over hatch lock with a 20 power magnifying glass and no number stamped in barrel. Believe its replacement knock off. Matches a lot of other weird stuff on this "performance built turbo car". I think I will do one of two things, replace all the locks or just get the ignition keyed and hope it works on the doors, . A question, Do the 200sx locks have any similarity to the 280zx? It looks like ignition switch lock housing is different, but what about cylinders? Would they be interchangeable? Thanks for your help. Glenn

However, I am not having any luck with lock number. I removed the hatch lock cylinder and do not find a number on it anywhere. Pass door lock is buried under a cover, rods and linkages. Really hate to take it all apart. No sticker in glove box unless it is posted in a hidden place. Appreciate any help I can get. regards, Mac

I seem to be having a problem finding that key code on the hatch lock cylinder. even took the whole thing out. Lost my keys a couple of months ago on my 83 zxt and its kind of a problem, if you know what I mean. In any case, any help would be appreciated on locating the number, no sticker in the glove box unless its not obviously posted. AND the pass door lock is kind of inconsiderately buried under a cover, lock rods and so on. thanks, mac