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cpt_morgan

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About cpt_morgan

  • Birthday 06/10/1984

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    Virginia Beach, VA

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  1. Ok so I did several searches on here and found a post that had a sort of similar problem but no answer exactly so I will try myself. Car is a 77. The problem is that the ignition tumbler is old and worn and won't release the key sometimes. Probably the pins inside are gone. I can get this part for 35$ at advance but they have two kinds. A "6 tumbler" and a "7 tumbler". Ok so.... I removed the steering column cover and removed the black housing that contains the key tumbler and the switch. 1. How do I removed the lock cylinder/tumbler from the black housing that clamps to the steering shaft? I have tried several combinations of sequence to get it out, (i.e. key in/key out, key in at different positions, locking post in/locking post out) but I cannot seem to release it from the housing. I must be overlooking something/it should not be this difficult 2. How do I tell whether I need a "6 tumbler" or a "7 tumbler"? The backside of the switch body is stamped with several markings (8B, AL, and 6) and the inside of the black housing on the switch side is stamped with an "E" and "6".
  2. I ending up getting a 5mm spacer from ICHIBA. This works well for now, I will be buying new wheels soon. Also if anyone else is wondering I talked to Dave and he said his steering knuckles were not designed for 14" wheels
  3. Well I have been thinking about larger wheels. I was thinking about getting the Koenig B bombs in 15x7.5s. I have eibach lowering springs on the car. Would these have any rubbing issues that anyone knows of and also if others have a similar setup what tire size do you run with these. I don't have fender flares
  4. Hey I was just trying to see whether or not anyone else has come across this before. Did a search, no joy. I have a 77 280 and I just installed the Arizona Z knuckles. I have the 14" turbine wheels. Also I installed new ball joints by moog. The tie rods are also by moog and were put on maybe 4 months ago. After I installed the knuckles (with the little hole facing the engine as per Dave's instructions) the tie rod end touches the inside lip of the wheel. This is no good.... Do these knuckles require 15" or larger wheels? Has anyone used them with the wheels I have? Thanks
  5. Indeed. Excellent point. I think that I will just call around to the local junkyards and see if I can get some in decent shape. I'd rather have new but if that is not possible then i guess that is the next best thing
  6. on the framerails are they necessary anyway? could I just weld the holes up or do they actually serve a purpose (IE straightening the car if its in an accident)
  7. Ok I hope that I have this in the correct forum. I am in the process of removing the undercoating and painting under there. Its working well. I am using PB blaster to loosen the rubberized coating and then taking it down to bare metal with a wire wheel on a grinder. There are little holes in the frame rails and floor pans which have little rubber plugs in them. I tore one of these up with the wire wheel and I was wondering if anyone sells new ones? Thanks
  8. steady working it....

  9. Further on down that page in the FSM (page ST-8) at the bottom right hand side of the page. It reads "Check the inner ball joint for play. If ball stud is worn or play in axial direction is excessive or joint is hard to swing, replace as a complete unit." Luckily I had an additional steering rack assembly from another car. I took this to Firestone along with that page from the FSM. Apparently it is possible for the ball on the end of the stud to become worn and not sit firmly against the seat. I spoke with the mechanic and he said he had not seen anything like it and that it was a very strange steering setup. Anyway its done and finished now so whatever Firestone swapped the inner tie rods from my other steering rack to the car and then they were able to align and inspect it. I guess they were in better shape. Hopefully this post will help someone else with the same issue.
  10. I have a 1977 280z and I took it to Firestone to get it inspected and aligned. It failed inspection and they couldn't align it because of the side to side play in the inner tie rod ends. I just replaced the outer tie rod ends before I took it to them. They said they could not source them and I thought that was 100% BS but when I looked online and tried to source them I could not either. I called the local Nissan dealer to see if they could order them but they told me that that part isn't made anymore. WTF! The guy at Nissan suggested that I check Bap Geon but they are closed now so I will check them in the morning. I am very close to getting it inspected and this is the only thing stopping me. Any suggestions?
  11. Ok I took a quick look this evening at things...its raining and I don't have time to take the fan out and look up under the dash and all. I will try to do that this weekend. The hot/cold switch has resistance when you move it left to right. The air switch above it has little to no resistance when you move it left to right. It does give a little resistance when you move it all the way over to defrost beginning about an inch from the far right to all the way over. The 5/8 heater coolant lines are attached to the firewall from what I can tell. I did find this however There is a hose that goes from the intake by the cold start valve over to the area by the fuel filter. It has a plug in the end of the hose but there is a hard line right next to the fuel filter. Does this go here? Or is this something to do with the A/C.
  12. Ok folks I have a 1977 280z. The PO removed the a/c system and now when you turn the heater on air does blow out of the vents but it never gets hot... I did a search and didn't really find a solution to this problem. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should check/replace? I'd like to drive it sometimes when its raining or cold outside
  13. cpt_morgan

    Seat Vinyl

    Has anyone had any personal experience with an upholstery shop in Virginia Beach, VA? I am planning on redoing my seats. They are black and I'd probably get some custom stitching in the headrests if I take them to a shop. They are the stock seats in a 77 280Z. If they do a good job I will probably take the dash to them as well.
  14. Sorry the link didn't post for some reason... who knows Anyway; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html The green wire is the trigger signal I believe
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