nope
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Posts posted by nope
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sweet! aww, but fail with no fender mirrors.
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hi, i think the z32 maf is located in wrong position, at this position there´s air with presion and maf may be injuried. the correct position is next air filter, after turbo air inlet.
i hope this helps you. if you like i can send pictures of my sr20det working in my 240z.
Nah I have it in the right position. Putting it at the air filter is just easier and, understandably, common. One of the many cool things about an SR in a 240Z is the space to do stuff like post-FMIC your MAFS. I've thought about this in detail and I'm convinced that the way I'm set up is the way to go. You get air readings close to the intake at pre-injection temperature and pressure. The MAFS is after but still inline with the BOV. There's no need to compensate the air-fuel ratio by recirculating. Anyway, there are a bunch of good reasons to do it this way provided you have the space.
You can't hurt the MAFS with pressure either, it's basically just a resistor. Corrosion or bulid-up is really the only way to F it up.
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I'm primarily concerned with turns like turn2 at Streets of Willow. (~100mph into a hard decreasing radius with an eatshit drop if you go wide) Eh, but it'll be a while before I take this car to the track. By then I should have some good evidence of what's going on with my own LCAs.
Thanks for the info HB280ZT. Nice pics too. Man, that's gotta be so fun.. actually driving your Z.
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hey guys, thanks for posting about your experience with these brakes. it may not have been what i wanted to hear, but at least i know what's up now.
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OH NICE. Haha, that's cool man. I set mine up so the intercooler fit just right between the upper and lower supports. It's so much less of a headache to mount things this way.
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TimZ, I haven't noticed anything in the rear but given what's going on up front, I'll definitely check it out.
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Yeah, like I said, I'm going to duct and shroud everything later. By tilting the radiator back I was able to fit a 2" taller radiator that maintained a good ducting profile without having any frontal area being blocked by the core supports. I'm also mounting a pull-type fan on the back of the radiator a little later on. It's pretty well thought out. However, I can see how that's not completely obvious with these pictures alone.
olie05, I had initially bought a good setup for v-mounting but I decided I don't want to touch the hood styling. The hood is too important to the Z's look to chop it up for a giant vent. I can deal with a slightly less race-ready setup to keep the car sexy.
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Yeah, I had them ground down enough to remove that front lip exactly like he shows in the installation instruction CD. That jacked up the rotors like instantly. Then I ground them down as thin as I felt cool with and they still rub. The problem is that I'd have to grind completely through that front LCA face (which is what gives the end of the stock LCA its stiffness) to keep it from grinding.
HB280ZT, have you noticed any issues grinding yours that far back? Have you autox'ed or tracked like that?
I feel slightly stupid right now for trusting the instruction pictures alone, but still annoyed that I'll have to grind completely through to avoid having to buy a $600 LCA kit, and probably some new rotors.
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My engine doesn't even run yet. Still swapping.. That damage is just from pushing it around.
I'll call Dave soon but even with new rotors, the same crap will happen. I've thoroughly checked how everything lines up and there are no errors in assembly. It's like have to buy his LCA's now. I've noticed that the part of the stock LCA that's rubbing doesn't exist on the AZC LCA's. They stop right at the ball joint.
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The SR posts usually trickle in this forum kinda slow so hopefully this helps spark up a little discussion. Seeing everyone else's progress pics is always fun so this is really just a bit of showing off my own car progress.
The intercooler piping is all 2.5", except for after the Z32 MAFS where it's 3". I set the MAFS after the intercooler since I had the space with the SR20 and so I don't have to recirculate. You can find the BOV mounting flange just downstream of the turbo. Both compressor-side turbo flanges have custom fabbed aluminum transitions which I realize aren't really visible in these pics. The intake filter is tucked down just beside the FMIC which is bolted to the new custom core supports. The radiator sits on isolators mounted to the lower support and leans back at about a 25 deg incline. I plan on ducting and shrouding the cooling/intake systems when the time is more appropriate. I'm trying to stick to one phase at a time and right now the goal is starting the engine. As far as I can predict, plumbing and engine wiring are the 2 things I need to complete to see if this bad boy even starts.
Fab work was done by TimeMachine Racecraft here in Oceanside. The results I get are always exceptional. I'm super picky about every detail and Tho always works out what I want. Feel free to PM me if you want his contact info.
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The hubs are the custom aluminum ones he includes in the 5-lug kit.
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Thought some of you guys might want to check out my new upper and lower core supports. They were designed to resemble the original 240z core supports while making it easier for me to deal with planning the packaging of custom hood mounts, intake, shrouding, radiator, FMIC and piping.
This, in addition to radiator and FMIC/piping mounting which I'll post in the 4-cyl forum in a sec, is a huge step for me and my car. I'm way excited about how it came out and kinda just wanted to show it off.
Fab work was done by TimeMachine Racecraft here in Oceanside. The results I get are always exceptional. I'm super picky about every detail and Tho always works out what I want. Feel free to PM me if you want his contact info.
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I bought a Arizona Z Car's 5-lug wilwood brake kit a while back and just by transporting my car on and off trailers there is significant damage to the front rotors. The stock LCA rubs the rotor hard, especially with the wheels turned. I tried fixing this temporarily by grinding away LCA material until I just about broke through. They rub less, but still rub.
Has anyone had a similar issue? The damage is pretty much identical on both front rotors. I thought I'd post up here before contacting Dave at AZC.
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Dont buy from Vecco on eBay. I'm in a mess with them not sending me t-bolt clamps and silicone hoses. They take about a week to respond to emails and blame it on your spam filter when they finally do.. they NEVER, EVER answer the phone. Sent money over a month ago, been getting the run-around since. Still no parts. I hate this company, they can eat a fat crap. Stay away.
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can you send me a picture?
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yup, those would be 2 of the 4 parts im looking for.
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hahah i JUST asked for the same thing..
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these things can't be $200...
maybe the full mirror set is, but i just need the circled mounting items. i have the mirrors with the connected threaded rods. anyway, that should be more clear. help me out if you have these lying around!
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would anyone happen to have the plastic bases and the sprung mounting parts that go under the fender? maybe from a set of mirrors that got sold or damaged? id like to get a pair of these if anyone has em. used or new.
thanks guys.
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Thanks! Couldn't have asked for a more clear answer.
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are the original bullet fender mirrors adjustable or are they rigid and just adjusted at the mounting surface? also, are they plastic or metal?
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I just went through my PayPal history, the guy's name is Walter Seaman.
DIE.
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f'ing great. i dont even remember which punkass on here sold this to me as the RB20 oil pan. nevermind..
anyone need the RB25 pan..?
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I can send it with the original mounting hardware and brand new stainless socket head cap screws and stainless spring washers for the oil pan (30) and pickup (2). The pickup is basically perfect. The oil pan is also perfect, clean and dry inside. The outside has minor paint scratches as shown in the pics, a powdercoating on it would be sick.
220 shipped would be cool. I got some PM's but for way lower.
Brake swept area? Wide tires better?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
the formula is mega simplified and doesn't really apply for elastic materials, and definitely not over rough surfaces. at the road level it's not just friction involved. there's mechanical engagement with the peaks in the asphalt, and more are better. so for tires, this discussion is fail.
for brake pads, well.. also fail, as someone else mentioned the surface area comes in when you're talking heat dissipation. friction is temperature dependent.
only reason you'll ever wanna cut back on tire and brake surface area are for other performance losses associated with big, unsprung, spinning parts.