nope
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Posts posted by nope
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you can get mirror block off plates from a motorcycle and see if those fit. just ebay "mirror block" or something. some are just plates to cover the hole, others have LED signals built in.
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good god man. that is so sick. i almost want to drive out there just to see it in person.
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how much are you interested in paying? i have that exact one. its unmounted, ABS material, no bondo, 3piece, which im about to have primered and painted a dark metallic grey. its in perfect condition, but currently white.
if you want one cheap, then thats probably not mine. im still on the fence about having a spoiler on my 240 so its possible that i might be persuaded out of mine. ill have to see it on my car after its painted first though.
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its in cases like this that you should be allowed to use excessive profanity on forums.. holy shitsacks! this is the only conversion ive ever seen and liked. EVER. soo impressive. the shapes work out great together and its like a whole new car and personality. excellent combo man, i want one!
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theres a pair on ebay right now that need to get powdercoated. 200$ right now. however, the seller only has 15 feedbacks (all as the buyer) and is located in thailand. :/ haha. crazy how much these damn things are. f'in sick though.
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just asking because i have the 3pc one, that 260zjade is asking about, on my car. its not fiberglass though, its ABS or something.
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how much does the 3pc spoiler go for?
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yo, dont get carpet padding. instead try this 3-in-1 heat insulator stuff i used. its 3/8" thick fibrous padding with an aluminum film on one side. you can use spray adhesive to install it and its way easier to lay in than dynamat. throw this stuff down everywhere and tape up the seams with aluminum tape.
my website ("damn car" below) is way old and sorta sucks but check out the "day 10" link. it shows my install process. its cheap and lightweight, heat insulates, sound insulates and serves as carpet padding.
heres something similar to what i got: link
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i took my car back to time machine for some more work this past sunday.
welding the coilover collars straight to the rear hubs turned out pretty good for me with the 17" wheels and zg flares. this worried me before because i thought i was making some bad measurements somewhere since the install notes show them welded way off the hub.
for the fronts i have the collars welded to the hubs and theyre pretty much bottomed out to get the ride height I want.
ill post pics when i get the car back. good luck man.
i cant wait to see my new exhaust..
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ive got 17x10s in the rear too (285's with 40 aspect ratio) and my rear collars are pretty much welded to the hub casting like the fronts. however, im planning on cutting a lot of fender out for the flares and tucking my new fuel cell and exhaust up pretty tightly. i measured everything out several times but it's way lower than the instructions show so im pretty nervous about it still. ill let you know how it turns out so you can get some relevant input from someone using this size wheel.
my transmission will be back on by tomorrow, so at that point ill just have to cut some material from the quarter panels to allow me to drop the car back down without bottoming on the tires. ill fit the flares after that and post.
its gonna be a tough one to 1up these welds. (i didnt weld these, timemachine did) anyway good luck jimbo. get those damn things on!
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Jimbo, do you have this coilover kit installed din your car?
I found my rears needed to get welded much lower. I guess I'll find out if I'm wrong about that after I finish some other undercar work and set the car down.
I had the welds in my previous pics of the rear struts ground off and made much lower. I'm almost embarrassed to say how low until I'm sure it's right. ahah.
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i dunno, but probably. carry a wood block with you?
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as far as AN sizes go, i think AN-3 is the accepted standard for brakes and AN-4 for clutch.
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you would use a lock-out valve for your parking brake, which is what i think proxlamus meant to say.
to engage you hold on the brake pedal while you close the lock out valve. you should run the line to the rear brakes thru the center of the car and have the lock out valve there. itll lock pressure to the rear brakes and act as your parking brake.
you may also want the proportioning valve for balancing pressure front to rear under active braking.
although ive never used my AZC brakes, i like the design and replacement options.. plus everything is beastly. my front pads are like an inch thick (6piston fronts).
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yeah, these guys are great. not a single problem yet, and they work quickly. im a mechanical engineer too and i notice they always come up with simple and clean fab designs, the best type. i love it. theyre not cheap, but if you want exceptional work done on your car this is the place to go.
i recommend them to anyone in so cal. time machine racecraft in oceanside. the guys are tho and niko.
haha i love all the DAAAAYYYUUMM's my car is getting now. thanks for the support everyone.
Btw, anyone here using the TTT t/c rods?
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the t/c rod brace will work if i use something like the techno toy tuning ones or have time machine fab something similar. only thing is that i might be losing that rubber isolator to a heim joint. never seen these mounted, anyone currently using them? still using the rubber?
im also noticing switching to a real pivot would lessen resistance in suspension travel which is always good to eliminate aside from the shocks and springs.
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i got these FN01R-C's and they fit great with flares and coilovers, no spacers. 17x9F and 17x10R at lowest offsets ran me $800 flat, but I picked them up when I was in town, so that's without shipping. i'm running corvette 245'sF and 285'sR un-stretched so they would suit your slicks just right.
ah crap, just remembered theyre 5 lug.. anyway just some info that for sure works.
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ive got the 4x4 s12w callipers (new, no pads), 300zx 5-lug hubs (reconditioned) and rotors (used) with new close to new wheel bearings. i also made some spacers that work to put the calliper centered over the rotor. check the link in my sig, youll find a "brakes" link somewhere in there. anyway, im willing to sell these now since i bought the arizona z car package. this might be just what youre looking for.
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yeah man, why not? im in clairemont mesa. let me know if you really want to.
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yeah the t/c rod issue will need to be worked out later. time machine had thrown the brace in for free anyway. ah man, but it looks and mounts so slick.. i'll make it work somehow.
haha right on e_racer, i live right down the street from madison. i should have the car back at home like mon/tues. my ZG's will probably show up around the same time so I'll be working on the fender cutting after work.
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zlalomz, i noticed the same thing late last nite. im gonna talk to the guys at timemachine about that. stiff rubber washer type things might do the trick depending on the suspension travel i end up with. I guess its sorta like a sway bar haha. Nice lookin out though.
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I've got a little more progress to show for now. I think I'll be taking the car home from the shop after this weekend to give my wallet a break and prep things up for future work. I'm gonna start with mounting zg flares and doing all the fender cutting per austin's write-up just so I can get the car to a good ride height. At that point I'll be in a better position to measure out the fuel cell mounting and the exhaust path.
t/c rod brace:
steering shaft mod:
Check these guys out. Time Machine Racecraft Rates are a tad pricey, but you've all seen the quality work. And this is my first exposure to paying for custom fab work, so wtf do I know. Anyway, they model parts in SolidWorks, have plates CNC plasma cut, use good material and make beastly welds. Meaning good.
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You like how the engine mounts have drain holes in the lowest weld?
This shop does sick work.
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This is copied from a thread I started in brake/chassis section:
This is a great alternative to the crossmember style engine mount and modifying the stock SR mount. Simpler, less material, and can use the SR mounts with a higher durometer.
Man this exciting.. I've had the car for over 2 years now and the engine is finally in.
WORRD.
RB20 oil pan
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Does anyone here need an RB20 oil pan, pickup and mounting bolts?
I got these like 2 years back when I wanted to do the RB26 swap but bailed on it shortly after. I forget how much I paid for it so I have no idea how much the go for now. I'm thinking this could be way more useful for someone currently trying to source parts for their own swap. I can post pics if needed.