zguy36
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Posts posted by zguy36
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"but sometimes people get blasted for questions only extensive searching would answer. "
Excuse me, but I need some clarification, who is 'getting blasted' in this thread? Someone asked a question, others answered it, there was clarification, and then further discussion and education on what is actually going on.
Where is the 'blasting' in the responses?
And god forbid someone 'search extensively'...
As to this comment:
"I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have noticed that people with "knowledge" get away with a lot more "tone" than people without "knowledge". I agree that this thread has valuable information about vehicle emissions, but really struggle with the way that it is passed down. "
If you want information, learn to be humble when asking for it, and when you get it THANK PEOPLE FOR IT! Putting on an attitude is NOT grattitude. Nobody HAS to answer anybody else's dumbarsed questions. If they do, consider yourself lucky. Some of us are easily happy without the internet and can get along just fine without ever 'sharing' what we know with someone who doesn't like the way information is presented to them FREE OF CHARGE AND ANY PAIN OR FINANCIAL OUTLAY. <edit> "Who is John Galt?"<edit>
Christ, if I was this picky about it when I was a kid, I would have gotten lugnuts and sparkplugs thrown at me and been scolded for not thinking before I asked "zuch a sthupid qvestion!"
Oh waitaminit, that DID happen to me when I asked questions where I didn't think about it first. Excuse me... did someone throw spark plugs or lugnuts at you in any of the responses?
I didn't think so...
Tony,
I didn't want to single you out, because it will probably mean the end of my ability to post on this site, as I am not someone that posts a lot of great information, or has a lot of "worth" to this site and am breaking the site rules by posting this. I used to post quite a bit, but have mostly just enjoyed reading what everyone else has to say and applying it to my own Z.
You are the one with "knowledge" that I was writing about earlier, that gets away with anything you'd like to say on this site. You seem to know so much about so many topics, you are well versed and explain things very concisely, and of very great value to this site. What you lack though, is the very humility that you are expecting from everyone else. Your response to my post said a lot of things about how I should feel lucky that you answered some dumbarse's questions. If you look up the definition of "Pompous" as zeiss15 said some people are acting on this site, you'll find the definition to be: "having or exhibiting self-importance, arrogant."
I believe your actions meet this definition Tony. I may be alone; I may not, but still feel as though something should be said. I may not have had your experiences with people throwing spark plugs at me when I asked stupid questions, because I grew up with a great man who had extreme patience in answering my questions. My father taught auto shop at the local high school for 29 years before he retired last year. He is also a man with bounds of knowledge like you, but also is a man that will take any amount of time to explain something to someone who wants to learn. Every year he had a brand new class of dumbarse's that he took the time to transform into nearly every good auto tech working in a two hundred mile radius. Granted, many of those dumbarse's didn't learn, didn't want to learn, and remained a dumbarse. These are analogous to those that can't use the search feature and there isn't much anyone can do about them other than remind them that it actually takes work and motivation to learn things. I really think that the bulk of the people on this site aren't in that category though and want to learn and just need to be taught.
A man with knowledge can do many great things, but nothing as great as sharing. Learn to get off your high horse once in a while Tony. No one is forcing you to share what you know, you are choosing to volunteer your time and share what you know to those who don't know. Please remember that.
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WTF? You start a thread that turns into one of the best technical threads regarding emission controls for our cars and you get your panties in a wad because you don't like someone's tone? It would be better if you just say thanks and go on your way with your cat install.
I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have noticed that people with "knowledge" get away with a lot more "tone" than people without "knowledge". I agree that this thread has valuable information about vehicle emissions, but really struggle with the way that it is passed down.
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That's some serious detonation...
Did you go to a Cometic gasket. I hear they are excellent. As a side note, I use a Nissan head gasket with an O ringed block. So far no issues with boost up to 26psi. knock knock knock
I went to a multi layer steel gasket and left the o-ring out of the block. This setup worked very well; no seepage or gasket deformation.
Both gaskets suffered some serious detonation though, enough to break the porcelein on the spark plugs on a couple occasions. Young and stupid, playing with a megasquirt and boost
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I ran a copper gasket for a while, with an o-ringed block. I had some water seepage, but never enough under normal use to cause any problems. I ended up swapping to a multi-layer steel gasket after I blew out the copper one. It actually deformed (under lots of detontation) enough to push past the o-rings.
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I too am chasing this click on initial take off. I also had a bad wheel bearing and found that the splines on the stub axle had quite a bit of play. This would seem like a source for the one time "click" on initial acceleration.
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Bad analogy. If T shirts were a dollar, I might just throw them away. But they're not. Spending my time and energy to prolong the life of a tool which costs $1 (HF cobalt set is current $115 for the 115 piece set - not on sale) doesn't make much sense to me. Maybe that's because I've tried to sharpen them and I suck at it, and the cost of the Drill Doctor is about the same as the cost of the entire 115 piece drill index.
Maybe that is the problem, only spending a dollar on a drill bit. Cheap drills will need sharpened more often and in harder materials you might be lucky to even get them to cut their way through. Harbor Freight drills are junk. I have a set of HSS drills that I inherited from my grandfather, some of which are over 60yrs old by now and only need touched up once in a while. Sharpening a bit on a bench grinder (30 seconds) takes a lot less time than running to the store to buy a new bit.
For reference, a real cobalt drill set, 115 piece is going to cost you some money. Here is a set sold by Enco for $510.00
http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-9962&PMPXNO=5496847&PARTPG=INLMK32
You can also buy t-shirts for a dollar, you just choose not to wear a shirt that is that cheap.
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Hand sharpen mine on the bench grinder's fine wheel. Its a bit of an art but basically its just working out how to do it and then practicing.
I do the same thing, sharpen them on a bench grinder. Throwing away dull bits is kinda like throwing away your clothes because they stink. They make tools for that....
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I'm in need of a 240 or 280 stub axle and companion flange. I only need one side, but if you have a pair I'd buy both. Send me a message with your price and payment methods. Thanks!
Jeremy
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picked up all parts from an NA supra for 100 shipped. The area for the oil return is already cast into the pan, just needs drilled out and the bolt holes tapped.
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I have a transmission out of an 81 na, this should bolt in with no mods. Double check that and let me know what you are willing to pay for this. Thanks!
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Looking for a cheap passenger side stock half shaft for a 240z. send me a message with price plus shipping to 83204. Thanks!
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So I can't bring myself to pay the big bucks for a new rear sump pan and am having a hard time finding a used one. Would a 2jz NA pan bolt up with some modifications for the turbo oil drain?
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The easiest way to fix the problem, just run 12psi of boost!
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I am in process of putting an '88 fiero front suspension into a 1600 roadster. I would imagine that it would be fairly easy to do the same swap into a Z. This suspension is 'self contained' and does not require strut towers. Instead of a strut, the spring is located between the upper and lower control arms, similar to a mustang II. These are also front steer.
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could you do a writeup on how to make these changes? Some very sweet work!!
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This is how I know when to add coolant, the heater quits blowing hot!
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Not sure that rope is really strong, but shouldn't need to be tested anyway. Looks okay to me!
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Buy a universal cut to fit set. You won't find any pre-cut kit that has proper length wires.
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Those are some STRETCHED out sidewalls. Did you have to light off a stick of dynamite inside the tire to get the bead to seat?
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The last re-ring, and bearing refresh that I did on my Z, the time from pulling the car into the garage to cleaning the pistons for new rings took three hours. The block was still warm.
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Try brazing it, solder joints are just too brittle for something like that. If you F it up in the process, nothing is lost as it is already F'd up. If that is the end result, put on a new one!
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I had a coworker that was an Industrial Engineer, working with me, he was going for his masters in ME. One day at work he was studying for an exam, or thesis, or something, and he called me over to his cubicle and asked me what's the difference between a screw and a bolt. Now, mind you, I grew up in a machine shop and operated milling machines at age 8 so I was slightly ahead of the game when I got my ME degree, but this guy opened up my eyes. He also had some problems to solve involving part design simplification. He could not for the life of him figure it out. I looked at the parts and had them instantly redrawn with about half the machining steps taken out of them.
It's not "what you know" anymore...
I am convinced that the brain is a bucket. You spend the early years learning common sense, the middle years learning facts, the later years learning a specialty. Somewhere North of grad school comes time to make more room in the bucket; out goes the common sense. Learn to kiss ass, you are now management material!
You would be suprised how many people don't know the difference between a screw and a bolt. By the definition, a fastener can be either depending on how it is used in application.
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No, those things will not cause dieseling. Describe your dieseling problem (how long it does it for, more about your engine) and maybe you can get some pointers on how to fix it.
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I should have read this post a lot earlier, may have saved you some trouble. I ran into the exact same problems that you are having, which was a direct result of the FUEL INJECTORS. This may seem a bit odd, that injectors could cause this, but if you have low impedance injectors, they have some pretty nastly flyback voltages. The MS board was poorly designed in respect to the injector flyback, and this high voltage leaks into other parts of the MS causing some pretty bad glitches. Either put in a resistor pack for your injectors, swap out for high impedance injectors, or do some reading on the subject of the MS forum. There are a few board fixes that can be done (worked decent for me) that will aleviate your problems.
240z cross member
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Had an accident in my z, hit a piece of lumber on the freeway and it crushed in my front cross member. If anyone is willing to ship, I need the cross member, both control arms and the tension rods. Thanks!
Jeremy