Jimmy
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Posts posted by Jimmy
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Hi,
broke my transmission last week. This was the standard 5. speed (euro) gear box on my 1973 240z. I have Autometers, and was using a 240sx speed sensor in that box (wich after searching says to be useable in all L-boxes).
A friend of mine had a transmission, bought it, but we do not know what type it is (was on his bought L28ET swap). Transmission fit`s nice, but my 240sx speed sensor does not go inn. The mechanical one that I took out of the box has a smaller wheel on it, and it can not be moved over. I have not filled oil yet, would like to see if anyone can help me out. Would realy like to have my spedo working!
Thank`s!!
-Jimmy
Edit: added a picture of the "new" transmission, anyone know what type it is?
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Thank`s guys!
Scenery is just iphone pictures from the first pit-stop to show my enthusiastic grandfather the result
Wil have some bether pictures taken soon. The wheels are Rota RB-R from the group buy, in Rota Royal Gold. 17x9 -13 and 17x9,5 -19 (Federal SS595 225/45 + 235/45).
I`m in the North West of Norway, More and Romsdal. Nearest city is Molde
Plug wires are MSD universal-kit, bought from summit. I have cut the lenghts my self, and the longest one is bearly long enough. Everything you need is in the kit.
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Here is my 73` 240z from Norway. Been working on the car some years now, and here are the first pictures of here! Would like to thank the HybridZ comunity, do not want to know how many hours I have spent the last years reading usefull info in here. Thank`s!
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1985 - it has a removeable bracket for the emergency brake cable. The 1984 (wrong year) has a emergency brake bracket that is cast as part of the caliper - you don't want that one. I paid about $120 each US$.
Thank`s! Here in Norway we only had the Maxima from 1990 and up. It may go under another name. Do you know wich engine model the 1985 Maxima with theese brakes had? It would be alot faster for me picking it up local...
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Hi,
I bought this http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102954-desert-z-brake-conversion/ and I need a rep. set. Sent Shaun an email just before the weekend, but no answer yet, and I`m in a hurry. Only later Maxima models where delivered in Norway, can only find rep sets for 90+ models, and I belive theese are older? If I need to have something shipped over, I would like to get it right the first time!
Thank`s!
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from the looks of your pictures you should have cut your oe tube way shorter to get the coil to go lower
Yes, to bad I followed the instructions. It said leave 50-55mm, and that`s what my welder did. I can do it all over again, but like mentioned above, maybe half an inch is a bit small. What do I know.
I paid $$ to have it weld, sending it to sandblasting and painting...
Thank`s to all of you for contributing, for now I have dropped the springs (removed pherces), and it`s low enough so that I can fit my flares, and get it painted. Big thank`s!
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No experience here with coil overs but it looks like the OP is assuming that the spring has to be tight between the perches, when, in reality, to get the car lower there will be a gap, with the spring loose, until the spring is loaded with the cars weight. The gap is okay, as I understand things.
Yes, I tought it needed to be tight between the perches. If its okay to just "drop the spring", that will help alot. ?
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If I'm seeing the pictures right, you welded a threaded insert onto the stock strut tube after cutting it and now the new strut body contacts the cut end of the OE strut tube.
I wouldn't cut and reweld anything. I don't think you've got much to gain, and I'd want at least 5cm of tube inside the new insert anyway.
It looks like you've still got an inch or so to lower the spring perch before you run out of travel. After that, I suppose you could get rid of the lock ring and lock the spring perch against the black strut lock ring.
How much travel do these struts have and where are you in their travel? Are they solid to the bottom or could length be trimmed there?
Yes, that is the problem, correct.
I also understod the instructions that way, and left 55mm, thinking that must be a good thing. If I cut and reweld, I would gaine enough to get the ridehight flush, but then it would only leave 10mm of the OE shock holder inside the threaded sleeve...
Yes, I have an inch or so (3cm) lowering the spring. But on the picture the spring is bearly tighten by hand (preloade may be the word?). So if I drop the sping an inch it would be loose, understand? Is that a possibility? Tought that was a bad thing...
I have plenty of travel, and dont think that is a problem. The best thing would be to trim the bottom of the shock, yes, but dont think that i possible. Maybe someone knows?
I`m thinking s13 would fit great (my friends emusa where 8cm shorter), but K-Sport is not willing so far to take them in exchange for s13/shorter coils/shocks.
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Hi,
I ordered a K-Sport coilover kit for my 73` 240z. They offer a kit for our cars, with stock top hats, and thas what I wanted. Followed the instructions, and I may have missunderstod some of it, because the car wont go any low at all up front. On my 225/45-17 wheels, the gap to the stock fender lip is 1 inch (25mm).
Now I`m thinking about cuting the front hub apart again, trying to solve the problem, and will add some pictures to explain. How much do I have to leave of the OE shock holder if I weld it to the hub? Can I cut it at 10mm, and do a new weld to the hub, or is that a bad idea (leaving only 10mm of the OE shock holder)?
Any reply on this would be much appreciated, thank`s.
PS; last picture is compared to a s13 front coil, wich I belive most of the HybridZ members are running.
Kind regards
Jimmy
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Something like this? Price is not to bad, but I have seen bether looking ones...
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Missing one stub axle on my 240z project. Would like one 240z, or two 280z stub axles (as theese are upgrades, if I understand correctly). I`m in Norway, but have U.S post address if shipping outside is difficult.
Thank`s!
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Any shot at an OEM CF heater control/radio panel?
Maybe an overlay? That would be so nice...
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introducing the 240Z Carbon Fiber Cowl Panel
Carbon Fiber: ..279.99
Verry nice!
So glad to see the parts you are making. Would like to order several of them, but before I pay big time in shipping; are you considering cf zg flares and cf bumpers?
Thank`s
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ZG flares and bumpers in CF ?
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Picked up mine today, thank`s Derek! What a great looking product!!
Wil have some bether pictures taken soon. 
Weber jets??All who live for their triples please read this
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Jimmy
Hi,
new to the game, and would like som opinions on some things before ordering.
Bought a set of 40mm dcoe 151 for my 240z L24. Engine is stock, minor port work on top (e88), I have added 6-1 + 2,5" free flowing exhaust, pertronix and MSD box, Carter fuelpump.
Put the webers on, and the car started. I`ve had no hard time with the webers, and had a local guy to set them up. They are synced, and he has tuned the low speed part. Friend of mine have a dyno, and wideband. Desided to take a look after the tune, because I dont feel like the engine is deliver the power.
The low speed range/cruse was about fine between 12-15 on the normal driving/cruseing. But when i flat out it hits 10,6 a/f all the way. Would like to come up to 13..?
My setup is;
28mm venturi (chokes)
130main
f11
170air
45pump
50f9idle
I have been in contact with a weber parts dealer, and he would like me to change to:
30mm venturi (chokes)
120main
45f9idle
or, if I would like to use 32mm venturies, and stay with 130main, 50f9 idle.
Wich seems bether after reading this thread, but what would be the best setup? (are at the same time ordering books, I know I have some learning to do!)
See that many are going with 32mm venturies (chokes), what do you think? The way my engine runs now, it dosent "kick in" at all.
Many thank`s!
-Jimmy