awoz87

looking for the threaded lower bracket off the front 2 coilovers, anyone that did the conversion with the threaded tubes let me know what you want for them.

Its a 73, with the zx alt conversion. sorry for leaving that out.

no one??

I did a bit of searching but could not find a solid answer. I want to know if I can run an 8ga wire from the pos off my 280zx alt directly to the pos terminal off the starter with an 80amp maxi fuse in line. I don't see where it would cause any issues but I want to double check. The reason I want to do this is the wires running into the car to the ammeter are getting very hot.

it was the reaction disk. thanks guys.

Ok, so I finally have my s30 running and upon taking it around the block I found that the brakes a VERY touchy. I press in the pedal and there is some loose travel then once it gets about 1/2 way it feels like I really slammed on the brakes. I never drove the car before so I'm not sure if its always been this way but i did gravity bleed the front brakes today and that did not seem to help. I did replace the master vac as the old one had a vacuum leak but I dont see that making a difference. I have the 4 pot toyota 4x4 calipers and they are right side up (bleeders on top) Im going to try bleeding the brakes again tomorrow with some help from someone, but does anyone have any other suggestions??

progress??

oh yeah, no i def back this choice. it will be rad.

damnit. I should have guessed, did josh have anything to do with this?

Ok so I got my car and the wiring is kind of a mess. The car is basically stripped, I will be putting a dash back in but with all aftermarket gauges. Just looking to see if anyone has info on making a harness for a carb'd L24 Here is a list of things I see needed to be included in the harness: Ignition Starter Alt. Coil Dizzy Battery Grounds? I beleive I have a ZX alt in my car but I need to double check, if I dont I would need a voltage regulator Any info would be great, write ups, links, personal expeirence. I did do a search but couldnt come up with much for an L series.

bmw engine of some sort?

seems to me they all had a lot but i really noticed on the rear 3

so im looking at picking up an L24 that was removed from a car that a sbc was put into. I was told it was rebuilt about 2 yrs ago, new gaskets and valve seals, and was only in the car running for about 6 months until the small block went in. The exhaust manifold was was removed when i went to go check it out and there seemed to be A LOT of carbon buildup, like chunks would come out when i stuck my finger into the port. just wondering is this could be from running really rich? or a possibly oil leak? not too sure, just looking for some input, i have not had good luck so far with used l series motors, dont want it to happen again :/

hmm. i kind of like that option. any pics of this setup?

nah, got it in and running only to find out it needed a headgasket. or so i thought. after i got that replaced and running it was still spitting out coolant, the head is cracked still looking for a cheap head to throw on, figure i might as well start mapping out the ka swap though. but yeah, from the research i did guys run a low psi pump to the surge tank then a high pressure pump after the surge tank. just gotta make sure both move the same volume. reasoning for this is the lack of baffles in the 240z and 260z tanks, and after even more searching i guess the 280 tank is not even that baffled.

So I have done a lot of searching but can not seem to find the answer. I have a 73 240z, I'm looking to put a ka24de into and down the line turbo it. It seems like running the low psi pump to surge tank to high psi pump is a popular option. now what about swapping in a fuel tank from an EFI z? Im guessing people have thought about it, and most likely done it, just cant really find the info. thanks

Sorry. Yes, hairline cracks. Already searching for a new head, may end up just swapping in a KA. Thanks for the help though guys.

ok so i picked up an l28 to drop into the 240z i bought and shortly after i got it running found out coolant in the oil. i figure its a headgasket and i had a new one laying around so i put it on. got it all back together, and running only to find more coolant in the oil. now when i had the head off i noticed two small cracks in the dome of the combustion chamber in cyl 4 and 5. they were similar cracks, coming from the valve area and going out the edge. now i know this should have been a huge sign right there but i was hoping it would not be an issue (stupid i know) what i want to find out though is this definitely the cause of coolant mixing with the oil? or should i be looking somewhere else for that?

any reason you blocked both lines off and didnt just loop them??

ok so i picked up an l28 to throw into the 240z i picked up. the blown engine that was in the car when i got it already had the electronic distributor conversion. i basically swapped everything over onto the l28 long block. after getting it together and having no luck with it firing at all i discovered the distributor shaft was in backwards. for a quicker fix rather than pulling the oil pump i just switched all the plug wires around. i also replaced the plugs. so now it will fire and if i give it 1/4 throttle it will stay running, i had to retard the timing all the way to do this as if i advanced it at all the engine would not run. any ideas? is swapping the plugs wires around like i did not gona work? do i just need to drop the oil pump?

woodgrain.

need both motor mounts, as long as they arent totally shot they will work. hopefully someone in san diego has some so i can get the engine in this weekend.

No no. Just switch up the exhuast and cut the fenders more/move the flares.

looking good man! oddly enough i lived with josh for a few months when he lived in san diego, awesome guy. side note: still planning to pick up that engine, i finally bought an engine hoist

Anyone with zg flares care to take some measurements for me?? I need overall height and the overall width, from tip to tip for width and from ground to the highest point for height.